Can we you recess your fridge into the wall so it just looks counter-depth?

3.5 feet is 41 inches and will give enough aisle space IMO. If I understand you correctly, this is what you would have if you buy the non-counter depth? I have less and it is fine. I worried about this quite a bit and am amazed how it is a non problem for us at 38 inches. Our fridge is separated from the island by this aisle which doesn't meet kitchen code guidelines but is just fine, more than fine.

Check the dimensions carefully on the counter depth models. The one our GC suggested is actually 27 inches deep. Since our current, relatively new, refrigerator is only 29 inches deep, we decided that for two inches difference we would save $1,200.

I assume you want a full depth refrigerator for the space and not because of the reviews on CR and that's fine. I don't find the reviews on CR to be that helpful or a good diagnostic of what my experience is or has been. If space is not that critical, then keep in mind that some items get lost in the larger fridge. I had a Fisher Paykel counter depth refrigerator with no ice-maker that was amazing in the amount of stuff I could store and find! It kept even temp. and was so quiet I sometimes had to open the door to see if it was running. I'm not pushing the brand, just saying that I think there are "quality" counter depth fridges available.

You need to check the carcass depth (depth without the doors). Sometimes this is 24", sometimes more. You also need to be aware of how the door swings and how much swing you need to fully open/remove any drawers, and how this will affect the counter overhang or walls next to the fridge.

CR gives you a baseline for comparison. I only tend to look at power consumption and noise.

All good points made above.

Another thing to keep in mind if you choose a full-depth fridge is whether you'll have enough room to maneuver the fridge in and out of its spot, which you'd need to do should it need service. That should be doable with a 42" aisle (3.5 feet) provided that measurement is counter to fridge door (even better, to fridge handles) and not fridge cab box to cabs opposite the fridge.

It will also depend on how busy this aisle area is. Is it the only way in and out of your kitchen? If so, that area could become a bottleneck and a few extra inches would help ease that.

Have you posted your lay-out for feedback and suggestions?

btw, I have a CD French door fridge. Love it! As Casey pointed out, you don't lose stuff in the back of a CD fridge unlike a standard depth fridge only to discover it after it's no longer edible.

Refrigerator carcass/box depth is only part of the story when determining the depth of a refrigerator and its impact on an aisle. You need to measure the full depth - including:

(1) Box + Doors + Handles

(2) Amount of space you will have behind the refrigerator for air circulation, power outlet + plug, and water line (if you have a water spigot and/or an icemaker).

From my experience, CDs need less recommended air circulation than standard depths. Check the refrigerator's specs for the minimum recommended - but be aware that your installation may need more space, depending on your setup (e.g., do you need more space for the plug or water line than is recommended in the specs?)

As Lisa mentioned, you need to measure from the handles when determining the aisle width and you need to determine how busy that aisle will be. You also need to take into account what is in front of the refrigerator - is the Prep Zone in front of the refrigerator? the Cooking Zone? If the Prep or Cooking Zone is directly in front or it is in any way "shared" work space, you will need more space in that aisle.

So, measure from the refrigerator's handles to the counter edge of an island/peninsula or whatever is in front of the refrigerator, determine what you will have directly across from the refrigerator, and determine how busy that aisle will be.