Please do not use laminate in a kitchen. It will hold up for a while...but it will eventually have problems. Many laminates bubble and puff in the presence of water. Some laminates have even done this in front of dishwashers where the steam caused the planks to buckle and curl. It won't happen in the first year. Maybe you'll get 3 years out of it. But it will happen.

Removing vinyl can be 'fun'. If the home is mid-80's or older, you should test the vinyl for asbestos before going any further. If it is newer than '89, you should be fine. Remove vinyl often requires a heat gun (not just a blow drier) and a floor scraper. Once it is "up" you then get to scrape up the 'goo' left behind. More hours of fun.

A click-together laminate (or vinyl...doesn't matter) requires a VERY FLAT subfloor. Carpets often hide areas that have depressed (sunk) or elevated (humps) over time. You will need to know WHAT is required for your floor AND HOW TO ACHIEVE IT. Two big learning curves.

I've had 90% DIY success rate with the Uniclic system. Most systems are very close to the same. The toughest part is learning the technique. This happens in the first 3-5 rows. Because of this, I suggest you start in a "back area" where no one will see your work, and then move into the more 'public' areas.

Even so, I've had professionals have "issues" with the Uniclic system. Like I said, the success rate = 90%. Laying the floor isn't the hard part. The first few days (yes...DAYS) will be floor prep. It is always the hardest, longest, most expensive part of any flooring job.

Find a friend who has done SOMETHING like this...and offer to buy plenty of liquid refreshment and bad take-out. It should help motivate him/her to help.

This is what Cancork Floor is talking about...

Just letting a wayward ice cube melt can present problems with laminates...