Thank you! I did spray the underside (that's what the bug blaster is for, it creates and vertical wall of water) but I'm still curious if the webbing would remain once the mites are gone. Thank you! :)

I had to shower my infected plant daily. Here is an article that may be useful: Spider Mite Management-University of California It gives some good advice on methods to use, if washing with water alone isn't enough. Interesting that they said some insecticides increase mite populations. Anyone try garlic or pepper sprays on mites? I haven't tried that yet, but I did try Castile soap and water spray.

What happens, when you use insecticides, is that you kill predatory bugs, along with bad bugs. So, inevitably it seems to me, you get spider mites.

Since we no longer use insecticides, we see spider mites only rarely, and only in very limited locations. And in that limited distribution, water, inevitably, works for us. But you know, you might also remove the affected leaves, and put them into the trash. Any remaining mites will go right along into the trash with their home.

Thankfully my roses are insecticide and pesticide free. I'm considering trying to purchase some predator mites to release.

Good to hear. I found this from the Xerces Society: Minimizing Risks to Bees. Bee Safe :)

Spraying late in winter/early in spring with oils and sulphur (never together and never when it's too hot) does take care of most of the eggs and early mite population so they seldom are a real problem when their season comes. Repeat in late fall.

PS. The same two ingredients provide some control over overwintering sucking insects and also provide some control of fungi so taken together (but timed separately with 2-3 weeks between them) they're really a 3-in-1 solution as long as control and not eradication is what you're after.

Any suggestions for what to spray/use in central Florida in May? :( It rains here nearly everyday and is brutally warm...

If you feel you need to spray with a miticide, try something with the active ingredient abamectin. There are other miticides on the market, some are specialized so you need to know for sure which mite you're spraying against. Not all are advisable for roses due to the potential for tissue damage. Spray in the evening twice with 10-14 days between applications (or follow the label). If temps do not regularly exceed 83F you can mix that with light summer horticultural oil in the first application. Oil will destroy the eggs. Spray on the canes also. Always do a test spray to make sure you have no tissue damage.

Hmm well I think I will still try to not spray pesticides and endeavor to find a natural way that works in high heat and humidity to remove the mites. Thank you truly for the idea though!