That does not look like EB to me, but if it is only affecting your container plants I would guess nutrient deficiency combined with environmental damage, but I am not an expert.

Early blight tends to not take down an entire plant, and does not overwinter in the soil. There is no need to pull out all your plants if you ask me. Many on these forums spray with Daconil as a prophylactic, and it would also work for treatment, but it is not organic of course. Not sure of any organic remedies for this. I'm sure the pros here will chime in....

If they're near the bottom of the plant I usually clip em off. Mine had it earlier but clipped them off and look great. Great luck. PS. If it continues to rain try and cover them somehow. It doesn't have to be fancy, just something to keep most of the rain off.

I agree that's not necessarily diseased. It would help if we could see a whole plant or 3. Have you given them any soluble fertilizer?

Here are 4 different plants

Plant 1

Plant 2

Plant 3

Plant 4

I agree that it is not primarily Early Blight although there may be a couple of splotches. Rather it's nutrient deficiency, common in container plants unless soluble nutrients are replaced regularly. They are quite anemic looking.

Trying to grow in containers is a whole different ballgame than doing it in ground. And trying to grow organically in containers is difficult, if not impossible to do due to the lack of an active soil food web. But that in no way means you can only resort to homemade remedies. So invest in one of the many liquid organic fertilizers available and feed them every 10-14 days. Also pick up one of the many organic approved fungicides to save your plants.

Dave

And while we are giving advice: if those are the blue Walmart fabric bags then you may want to fill it to the top with potting soil. They only have 4-1/2 gallons of volume which is on the extreme low end of what tomatoes need. The plants will take advantage by sending out more roots from their stems.

Steve.

I agree with Dave : It looks like nutrients deficiency.
Container growing is challenging ; Starting from choice of potting soil, fertilizing , watering... container size.

Lets see what kind of potting mix you are using ;; What kind of fertilizer (Brand name ) tou are using :Have you been getting a lot of rain ? Where are you located ? How the weather has been ?

Sey

I have been growing in containers for many years indoors and in greenhouses, but not outdoors where they are exposed to the elements. I have grown with chemical and organic fertilizers in containers so i'm familiar with both.

I haven't grown tomatoes in about 15 years and the last time I did, they were put in the ground. This is the first time, i'm growing them in containers and its outside.

After reading your comments, im guessing that because I received an excess amount of rain for many days, that my soil ended up flushing out a good portion of the nutrients from containers. Then immediately after it was really hot and many time humid. I live in NC in zone 7b. With the excessive rain and then heat my soil may have also experience ph swings possibly locking out nutrients (this is just speculation)

My soil in the containers is as follows:

Daddy Pete's Organic Lawn and Garden Soil (contains manure), Bagged Oranic Humus and Manure, Mixed Large Amounts of Dirt from the ground with it. A lot of my ground soil contains a lot of clay and sand.

Mixed all that together then added the following Amendments: Bone Meal, Blood Meal, Natures Blend Organic Fertilizer (Made by Miracle gro, its a green bag and its OMRI listed)
Azomite Rock Dust for trace minerals
Organic Lime
Hollands Giants Mycorrhizae

I added a decent amount of each I didn't add a whole lot because the plants were small so I didn't want to burn them and the bagged soil already had manure in it.

I Mixed all that into the huge pile of dirt and then proceeded to fill the bags with the small plants. They were fine at first then when I got hit will all the excessive rain and then hot and humid weather (84-91 Degree F) their health rapidly declined.

I was trying to stay organic like I said, hopefully that can workout. I appreciate everyone's help

Im also going to add more soil to the bags and or transplant them into bigger bags if the plants bounce back. I just didn't want to do it because of their health and especially since I thought it was a pathogen or fungi. I didn't want to waste all the money on dirt if I had to toss all that soil out.

Well, that *is* a lot of amending to the soil you used. Personally that sounds awfully heavy for a potting mix for my taste, but you are in a much hotter area.

I actually burned young plants with blood meal one time. It was so long ago I can't remember what it looked like, but it was obvious I screwed up. But I see you saying they were fine till all that rain.

My favorite organic solubles are Neptune's Harvest and (not quite but almost organic) Texas Tomato Food.

This is a lot of tomatos for you not having grown any for 15 years! Are these all just your personal garden? It's a big experiment to go bad, that would be heartbreaking. Good luck and keep us updated.

Sam,
You have already described some of the possible reasons for what has happened : EXCESSIVE WATER .
You have also revealed another possible cause: YOU POTTING MIX.
Yes, in my opinion your potting mix has been a bigger problem'
According to the experts (not me !) and the experienced container growers ( I have some experience) , using top soil and compost, manure is not a good choice. For several reasons:

--It gets compacted every time it is watered.
-- compaction deprives the root system from getting air.
-- In compacted soil the roots will have hard time to grow freely.
-- Compacted top soil will stay soggy for a long time.

The best container gardening results is achieved by using SOIL LESS potting mix. There are many commercial ones. Some are better than the others.

Plants roots need a certain amount of moisture. so a good potting soil has to have right amount of moisture retention an drainage. Neither one has to overwhelm the other.
JMO

Sey