Perfect, thanks! It makes my math a little easier.

Overall, a good first test. Only a few things need adjustment, although those that need it, need it moderately badly.

ME 5.3: A sandy soil, with a little silt. We target applications appropriately. Lower ME soils tend to drift fairly quickly, so yearly testing is recommended.

pH 6.7: Actually, completely unimportant. Balance the soil ions correctly and the pH will follow. It does relate to the method of balancing soil ions, but your pH presents no special challenges and indicates that the soil is less likely to have major issues. Soils can balance anywhere from 6.1 to 6.8--yours is going to target around 6.7-6.8.

OM 2.4%: In the Fair range, but with a soil this sandy I'd like to eventually (the work of years) get this as high as possible. Always mulch mow, consider feeding organically, and mow in every fall leaf that falls on your property. It's not an emergency, but every tenth of a percent here will improve your lawn quality, help hold water, and increase soil life.

Sulfur 12: Fine! We also have lots of margin for sulfate-based additions.

Phosphorus 828: Yeah, this is extremely high but fortunately not a problem. Fortunately because there isn't a thing you can do about it. Avoid high-phosphorus (second number) fertilizers at all times, and probably for decades. 200 would be the normal target here. If you do decide to put in gardens, annual flowers should perform very, very well as they're phosphorus hogs.

Calcium 70.7%: Although a bit higher than optimal, it's certainly not a problem (and for low EC soils, a slight advantage). No calcium is required or desired.

Magnesium 16.4%: Exactly optimal (within a few ounces per thousand square feet!) No magnesium is required or desired.

Potassium 2.2%: While technically optimal, the soil is short (as I expected). Recommendations below. You'll want to purchase potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash), which most landscape and gardening shops can order for you. You can get it online, but the prices are obscene.

Sodium 1.5%: While technically starting to nudge just a bit high, this is a low ME soil and the actual pounds per acre is not extreme. This is not a concern in this particular instance.

Minor Elements: Boron is low (below). Most of the others are fine, but I mention iron below as well.

Iron 98: Certainly not deficient, and an entirely fine number. However, this won't produce the best color in your lawn. Whenever you like, you can apply Milorganite at bag rate to both raise the ME a tiny bit and add iron the soil. I'm not sure of your location or grass type, so can't make better recommendations (mentioned in next note to highlight this fact).

Boron 0.33: Quite low and requires correction. Boron is used in the photosynthetic process, plus with meristem (plant stem cell) differentiation and growth.

We use Milorganite as a carrier (which is also going to help with iron and your ME, plus feed the lawn a little bit) and 20 Mule Team Borax (laundry aisle at your grocery store) as the boron source. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 10 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax.

Recommendations:

Now: Apply 4 tablespoons per thousand square feet of 20 Mule Team Borax in Milorganite carrier as explained under "Boron" above.

June 20: Apply 1 pound per thousand square feet potassium sulfate.

September 1: Apply 1 pound per thousand square feet potassium sulfate.

October 1: Apply 1 pound per thousand square feet potassium sulfate.

April 1, 2016: Apply 1 pound per thousand square feet potassium sulfate.