Advice on attaching wood face to interior steel ibeam

11 years ago

I've searched for information on doing this, but have found nothing useful. We are remodeling our house and in order to open up the kitchen and dining area, have installed a primed steel ibeam. Originally, we thought to clad the entire beam in wood, but when they installed it, it hung down pretty low (our ceilings are 8'). So we wanted to paint the beam dark gray and inset walnut (the same as the island countertop) into both sides of the beam. The bottom edge of the beam would be visible, with the wood tucked into the sides of the beam. Now I can't find my inspiration photo and I'm not sure this is even possible. The framers mentioned something about the beam sweating and causing problems and I can't seem to find any pictures anywhere with this configuration. Please help! They'll be doing it in the next few weeks! TIA!

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PRO

Charles Ross Homes

11 years ago

You can drill a pretty large diameter hole in a steel beam with minimal effect. Since the blocking in this application isn't intended to be a structural support, you can use small diameter bolts spaced pretty far apart to attach the blocking.

You can use construction adhesive as an alternative method of joining the blocking to the beam (I love having fun with chemicals.) The disadvantage is that you'll need to be careful to ensure a uniform application of adhesive and clamping such that the wood blocking stays in registration with the top and bottom flange (if you don't want the trim will be wavy.) You'll also need appropriate personal protective equipment if you use a solvent cleaner such as acetone and you'll need to ensure the area is well ventilated. You'll also want to ensure there are no open sources of ignition which, if you'll pardon the pun, could expand the scope of your project. Consult the manufacturers' material safety data sheets (MSDS) for appropriate safeguards if you go the chemical route.

Good luck with your project.

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Comments (12)

User
11 years ago
Condensation on the beam would occur only if the ends of the beam were exposed to cold temperatures and the inside air was humid.

You can drill through the center of the beam web and through-bolt 2X? blocking then apply a wood facing.
Susan Okimoto
Original Author
11 years ago
Great! The ends of the beam are not exposed to the exterior and humidity will be controlled inside with AC. I think the bolt through solution sounds good! I will pass it on. Do you see any future problems with this installation? Perhaps with the wood releasing moisture or contracting or expanding? Thanks so much for that quick response!
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User
11 years ago
Definitely use kiln dried wood. If the joints will be at recesses and reveals there is nothing to worry about.
Susan Okimoto
Original Author
11 years ago
Perfect! Thanks again!
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
11 years ago
Veneer the bottom of the beam with contact cement. I doubt you'll notice the loss of 1/32".
PRO
Charles Ross Homes
11 years ago
Wood will expand and contract with seasonal changes in humidity and with changing temperature. I think the best solutions are ones that anticipate and allow for such movement.

I suggest you install blocking according to the method Sanford W. described and then install wood trim fastened only to the blocking. The piece covering the lower flange portion of the beam can be attached to the trim on either side--but not the steel beam. The Olde Mill offers an engineered wood product which is well suited to your application. http://www.theoldemill.com/#!beam-installation/c24xv Good luck.
Susan Okimoto
Original Author
11 years ago
Thanks! The bottom flange of the beam will be painted and exposed and we will use the through-bolt method to attach the wood to the sides. Will the through-bolts show with this method or is there a way to attach the wood to the bolts only on one side? The length of each piece of wood will be about 18 feet. TIA again!
PRO
Charles Ross Homes
11 years ago
Since the blocking is not structural (i.e., no joists will be hanging from it) you can countersink the through bolts and the washers/nuts and fasten the trim directly to the blocking.
Susan Okimoto
Original Author
11 years ago
Many thanks!
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
11 years ago
The through-bolt idea is overkill and you may need permission from an engineer to drill the beam. Clean the beam with acetone, apply blocking to each side with construction adhesive, and finish nail walnut plywood to the blocking.
Susan Okimoto
Original Author
11 years ago
Thanks Joseph Corlett! Good point - I'll check with the architect before drilling. The adhesive method sounds easier too!