I just started seeds for cabbage, broccoli, collards and chinese cabbage (indoors). I will try carrots again, and maybe beets. Last year I did peas but started too late to get any. Bush beans a little later this month. I overwintered collards, lettuce, Brussels sprouts, spinach and kale last year and plan something similar this year, except I can't find the stupid Brussels sprouts seeds.

So basically roots and greens and cabbage family

Depends on what you want. If you hurry and plant short days to maturity, you can get a late crop of tomatoes, squash, beans, cow peas...here is the OSU fact sheet, which shows planting dates, earlier for Northern OK later for southern. osufacts.okstate.edu/docushare/dsweb/Get/Document.../HLA-6009web.pdf

I usually start planting the fall garden in late June, but haven't done it yet this year. I start out with pinkeye purple hull peas and winter squash generally planted in late June or earliest July, and then fall tomato plants a week or two later, followed by bush beans and sometimes pickling cucumbers. Later on, I'll plant brassicas in August and sometimes carrots, turnips and beets. In September I plant leafy greens. Lettuce planting varies depending on whether we start cooling down in mid-August or not until mid-September. I don't plant spinach until late September or October as our soil down here seems to stay hot forever.

You can grow just about anything (as you can see from the Fall Planning Guide which devotes a full page to warm season plants for fall and another to cool season crops for fall), and I sometimes plant things that aren't even listed in the Planning guide.

With warm season crops, avoid the tendency to plant them too late because their growth slows down significantly as the day length shortens and the sun becomes less intense in autumn's months. It can take the warm-season varieties longer to mature than the stated DTM on the seed packets when they are maturing in the autumn. I don't know if this is true all over OK, but at the southern end of the state we often get that first cold front with near-freezing or even freezing temperatures that last only 1 to 3 days. Then, after that, we have another 1 to 2 months of nice weather, so if I cover up the warm season plants like tomatoes and peppers and get them through that first really cold spell, then often I will get to harvest from them for quite a long while after that. It is a lot more fun and productive than letting then freeze in the first cold spell.

With cool season crops, if you can protect them with floating row covers, and provided you sow the seed early enough and then transplant the plants into the ground early enough, you can keep them alive almost all winter and continue harvesting from the plants. I've had really good results from overwintering lettuce and other greens, kale, spinach, collards, and turnips (for the greens). Oh, and Swiss chard too, and with ornamental cabbage and kale grown for fun. While the cool-season crops won't make a lot of new growth once the real cold arrives, they can hold forever in the soil and make slow growth over almost the whole winter with just a little use of row cover to protect them from the coldest weather. I don't really consider it to be a situation where you're growing them all winter as they will make most of their growth in the fall, but you can continue to harvest them over the winter. It is pretty amazing. Don't forget cool-season herbs too, like parsley, cilantro and dill. They love growing in fall's milder temperatures. If you grow the sprouting types of broccoli that continually produce side shoots, you can get side shoots for months. I grow an overwintering purple sprouting broccoli that produces pretty deeply into spring, though it eventually bolts.

For what it is worth, I've tried overwintering both peppers and tomatoes in pots in the unheated greenhouse with row cover to protect them on nights the greenhouse falls below freezing, and the fruit they form after October enlarge so slowly that they really aren't even worth growing so I seldom bother.

If you like to grow green onions like Evergreen Bunching Onions or just any variety of onions harvested small for scallions, or chives, they love the cooler weather.

It also is garlic and perennial onion planting time in fall, with us planting them in fall and harvesting them the following spring or summer. If you want to grow saffron, it is planted in fall as well.

What I grow for fall often hinges on what I think we didn't get enough of in the spring garden. You even can grow sweet corn for a fall harvest with careful timing of the planting so that it doesn't tassel and silk while the temperatures are too hot for good pollination and tip fill of the ears.

Sometimes in June or July I plant fun stuff for fall decorations: Indian corn, red stalker corn for the ornamental corn stalks, gourds, miniature pumpkins like Jack-B-Little and Baby Boo, grain type amaranths for the big colorful seed heads or quinoa for the same reason. The quinoa isn't happy in our typical summer months, but does really well in fall's cooler weather. When all the big autumn displays of decorative winter squash, pumpkins, gourds, etc., pop up in the stores in fall, I have my own growing right there in the garden and am happy I don't have to buy those items at the stores.

Good detail. I have Indian corn, pumpkins, gourds, and squashes in the ground. We have enough shade that my tomatoes seem to last the whole year. Need to get the mess of weeds cleaned up and start planting the other stuff I guess.

Dawn, so I could plant pumpkins and gourd this late and have them for fall? I was going to plant them up in the old horse lots and use the fences for supports.

Check your maturity dates. The squash family usually needs 100-150 days depending on species

Amy, carrots are superbly yummy in the fall. I had some small ones from spring starts, but I fed them to the bunnies.

I have planted winter squash as late as mid-July and still had a great harvest---Seminole often gives me dozens of fruit per plant as long as there is either good rainfall or adequate irrigation. Of course, Seminole is the most rampantly growing winter squash I've ever seen, often send vines running 35' or more. I like to let them climb the garden fence and then climb up into the trees on the edge of the woodland. It freaks out people to be driving by and to see giant fruit of some sort hanging from the trees. I get lots of questions about "those pumpkin trees".

DTMs are estimates only, and in our intensely hot weather which seems to accelerate winter squash growth, I often get winter squash 2-4 weeks earlier than you'd expect based on the DTM. Of course, our first freeze down here generally is in mid-November, so my growing season is maybe a week longer than yours.

Last year I planted Seminole and Long Island Cheese very late in the summer and still harvested mature winter squash before the first frost. Then, after the first freeze, I found more winter squash hiding under leaves and underneath tomato plants. Because Seminole has such thick rinds, the frost didn't bother them at all. I've left them in the fields until nighttime lows drop below 20 degrees and they've been just fine and stored for many months indoors or even in the well-insulated garage after I cured them. I always push the limits to see how far I can stretch out the seasons......it is the bad girl in me wanting to break all the rules. I've had properly-cured winter squash last up to 18 months stored indoors, which defies all the rules about how long they will store. I think one reason they may cure and store so well is that we almost always are so dry here, so there's no excess moisture in them to cause problems.

I haven't seen any posts about vine borers this year. I have no squash planted. Did I mess up and pick a no SVB year to not plant squash? What about squash bugs? I just couldn't face that battle this year.

Amy, my yellow squash and zucchini are doing great now. The first fruit had a weird fungus thing--probably from so much rain-- but now they're fine. I haven't seen a squash bug yet. I keep waiting for them to show up. I have a jack-o-lantern type of pumpkin growing out back. It's was a jack-o-lantern from last year that I just threw out last November. It's doing okay--and it nearly drowned in May. No fruit on it yet.

I haven't planted other pumpkins yet but prepared the spot for them yesterday. Planned on planting them today (Seminole and Tennessee Vining), but wondering if I should wait. Just saw on the news that we're supposed to get 4 to 6 inches of rain tomorrow and Wednesday. Also, aren't pumpkins/squash supposed to be planted when the moon is waxing?

WHAT??!! I'm with Amy. With so much going on around here, I just couldn't do squash because of the squash bugs - even though I have a cover!

I might plug a seed in and see.

Come to think of it, I saw a neighbor about 1/4 mile down that had two long rows of squash. Maybe they're all over there....

Well, looking at the life cycle of both SVB and SB, the emerging adults may have drowned in our May Monsoon. Wondering if I should find a place for a Seminole...

the answer is always yes. Interestingly, until a day ago I hadn't seen a tick for 2 months in our usually infested backyard. Haven't seen the ground dwelling cicada killers yet either. I'm thinking a bunch of stuff drowned this year.

Well they certainly didn't drown here in Tahlequah. I've been battling both squash bugs and squash vine borers. The vine borers are much worse than the squash bugs.

The only squash I have is only about 2 inches tall, but other gardeners near us are saying the squash bugs are awful this year. I haven't really had a bad pest problem this year. I had one cabbage plant that had a million, or so, holes in it, but I brought it inside and soaked it in salty water, and only found one tiny worm. I still have a lot of cabbage whites flying around though. I didn't plant Chinese Cabbage this Spring, but hope to in the Fall, so that is probably when the pests will move in on me.

Squash bugs were awful here. I got lots of summer squash in May and the really early part of June from a very early planting but got tired of fighting the squash bugs in early June and just gave up and let the plants die. I haven't seen any SVBs but then most people around me never got squash planted because we were too flooded from the 30+" of rain that fell here in May and June. Squash tends to not do very well when the ground is constantly flooded. I saw one SVB moth on a corn plant, but it never seemed to get to the squash plants. Diseases spread by the squash bugs or excess rainfall got the plants. I'm planting winter squash seeds later this week (after the rain so they won't wash away) for fall. I'm hoping that having no squash plants around for a few weeks for the squash bugs to encourage them might have sent them fleeing elsewhere. When I plant summer squash seeds for fall, I'll put them in a bed when squash has not been grown this year and cover them with summerweight row cover.

We do have tons of stink bugs, but not many leaf-footed bugs, so it seems to be a mixed pest year. There's barely any grasshoppers at all, no aphids and tons of lady bugs. There's spider mites but not in high enough numbers to cause serious harm to plants. There's tons of spiders and frogs in the garden, and a few turtles, so maybe they are eating a lot of the pests. We also have wheel bugs preying on pest bugs.

We had a lot fewer pests in the cool season, and more pests each week as the weather continues to warm up. There's lots of cucumber beetles around, but I'm not seeing much damage from them.