Nearing end of life. Remove the bad leaves and let it bear. I think it's no use to spray at this point. You can remove the fruit after blush. Let soil dry up a little between waterings. Happy ending!

Looks like it got overwatered and underfed.

Sey, "Prune all new suckers..." even if they are... HEALTHY ?
goodground, after removing the bad leaves, I would STILL fungicide. Can't hurt anyway. I think the plant will survive.

A. Newfool, what spray did you use for hornworm ?

It's an indeterminate with newer fruit up top, it has life left in it. Follow the advice given already; trim heavily, spray fungicide, feed well. Water deeply/steadily but allow for some drying time too. If you have any plain mulch left, then throw a layer on top, this will steady the moisture level and cool the roots a bit. I believe this advice applies since we are still early enough in the season, if it were August then things would be different.

Steve

Thank you all for taking the time to respond. I've been using a combination of E.B. Stone, fish and seaweed fertilizers so I don't think it's under fed but it may be over watered since the gauge on the Gardener's Supply Tomato Success Kit stopped bobbing after two weeks. There are also lots of suckers as the plant makes them faster than I could keep up. I'm spraying with Fungicide 3 at the rate on the label so I'll keep doing that and give it a trim. How long should I give these efforts?

How long? 10 days to 2 weeks should show improvement IF the plant is not already root bound in the container. If it is then just take what good fruit you can from it in that time frame and then call it quits. But removing most all the dead and damaged foliage should reduce the stress on the root mass and perk it up. And you don't mention how often you are feeding it - go with once a week or at least once every 10 days with the EB Stone.

Dave

I never tried Garden Safe Fungicide3 Insecticide / Fungicide / Miticide.

I always preferred to use sprays for SPECIFIC diseases; for
example copper to fungicide.

I'm not sure one spray can solve 3 problems.

daniel_nyc(7a)

I always preferred to use sprays for SPECIFIC diseases; for
example copper to fungicide.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I don't agree with that. We have discussed this many times. Fungicides are mostly for PREVENTION. So if you want to wait for a specific disease to arrive and then to deal with it, it could well be too late.

The problem is that we don't know for sure which disease might come our way. So we cannot be specific. .

On the OP's problem:

I think that, that plant is live and well. The problem is that it has been neglected and not taken care of. Those who do not believe in pruning will disagree with me which is fine.

I believe that one of cares to be provided to a tomato plant is pruning systematically, in a backyard gardening environment, for better results. I know this is not possible in a large scale mechanized commercial growing for economic reasons.

Sey

I think neglect is a bit strong as I have been trying my best. The plant (my first) seemed healthy until it didn't. There are tomatoes on every branch today. Should I sacrifice them by pruning? If so, how much?

Sey wrote: > Fungicides are mostly for PREVENTION. So if you want to wait for a
specific disease to arrive and then to deal with it, it could well be
too late.
Sey, I'm sorry, I was not clear. Of course I agree with you on above.
What I was trying to say, is that I don't believe that these 3-in-1 are the PANACEA for Insecticide /
Fungicide / Miticide and for 5 other tomatoes conditions / situations.
I prefer to use ONE product for EACH condition (often preventive.)

Sey wrote: > Those who do not believe in pruning will disagree with me which is fine.

Sey, when I asked you: "Prune all new suckers..." even if they are... HEALTHY ? I was referring to this specific situation: after removing the yellowish / brownish leaves, there will be VERY few healthy leaves to feed the plant. A few healthy suckers could help feeding the plant.

The only problem with this particular product is the rip advertising. It's only ingredients are Neem Oil (and only 9% of it is that, water, garlic juice and some soap. Sure Neem has some fungicidal properties and some insecticidal properties but then so does soap and water. And to also call it a miticide is really redundant since the only difference between insects and mites is the number of legs. It should be labeled as nothing more than pre-diluted Neem Oil.

As for the pruning controversy - there is a big difference between not pruning an in ground plant or a big plant in a big sized container and not pruning a diseased plant or a big plant in an overly small container as in this case. When one insists on growing big plants in small containers they almost have to prune. If they would grow container sized plants in the small containers they wouldn't have to prune unless the plant became diseased.

Conversely if someone insists on early pruning of healthy plants grown in ground or in big containers then when the plant does become diseased later in the season they quickly discover they have nothing left to remove or a way to save the plant and its fruit because they took it all off while it was still healthy. And all they have now is a bare stalk with a bunch of unripened fruit with sunscald. :)

Dave

In the picture bellow you can see 15+ ft. high tomatoes.

YES, of course I removed many lower branches, but I did NOT remove the... suckers. They will provide food later in the season, when many more yellowish / brownish leaves will be removed.

Dave wrote: > ... they quickly discover they have nothing left to remove or a way to save
the plant and its fruit because they took it all off while it was still
healthy. And all they have now is a bare stalk with a bunch of
unripened fruit with sunscald. :)

That happened to me in the first year of growing tomatoes: 8-10 ft. high tomatoes plants with 3-4 leaves on the top, and all the tomatoes fruits exposed to full sun. I learned my lesson, and now it's... better.

Luckily, I have a HUGE real estate.

The frame on the right is 16 ft. wide x 12 ft. high.

The one on the left is 6 ft. wide x 13 ft. high.

Honestly, I don't know how I would handle this "jungle" with 5 ft. tall cages.

I would estimate that my tomatoes last year grew 20+ ft.

Mmmmm...