That part where you highlighted the word is killing me. It says if it's against something it needs more space, but not how much!

I know! On our Whirlpool install instructions it gave a specific dimension for that. But if the front of the refrigerator case is flush with the post+casing, and the door is "proud" of the casing, you shouldn't have a problem, right? I might be misunderstanding. I think if the post+casing comes out farther than your fridge case, you're probably going to run into problems. I think our french door fridge has to be 6-9" away from a side wall to be able to open.

I do think that the upper cabinets to the left of your fridge may need a filler between it and the fridge panel so when you open the cabinet door all the way the hardware doesn't bang against the panel. I don't know the exact size, but I think normally it is 3", but also depends on the how far your pulls stick out too.

But as far as the right side of fridge where you are framing the wall... Here is how we boxed in our FD fridge with walls on either side to make it look sort of built in. I plan to finish it like a cased opening too...someday soon I hope!

I don't know if this helps answer your question, but for my fridge the opening between the walls is 36 1/2" wide. This leaves just a slight gap of about 1/4" or so on each side of fridge. The wall is 31 1/2" deep. The fridge box (not including the doors) is approx. 28 1/4", so I am guessing that I must have about a 3" gap in the back. The stainless doors sit 'proud' of the walls, as BB mentioned. Both doors can fully open as far as the hinges allow. When we finish the walls with trim molding, it may have to be pulled forward a bit more so the doors will still clear.. Hope this helps.

If you look at the diagram, it shows 28-7/8" side panels, in your case, the wing wall on the right represents a side panel. This would be the max. depth, as any more protrusion and the doors wont open fully.

Benji bride

I am not convinced having the door proud of the case-thingy (-ing, -ment? -whatever) will allow the door to fully articulate. I'm going to go to the appliance showroom and measure the stupid thing and just watch it go around.

Rebunky

Picture helps enormously. Thanks.

My cabs on the other side are only 15" deep on top and I don't know how the bottom of the door might interfere with the lowers. I'll measure that too!

We are doing the same thing ( KA french door but dimensions look the same) and I'm still unsure if it is going to work. KD says to have a 3" filler on that side and she demonstrated it to me in the showroom and it seemed to work, but the right hand door is still not going to articulate fully. I just decided it was good enough and will have to work. Not sure about your depth issue. I just had them build it as deep as the box of the fridge (plus room for plug) so doors will sit outside the box.

daisychain01

I've had a french door fridge before and I would NOT recommend a situation where the door does not fully articulate. It is a NIGHTMARE. You can't open the produce bins, use the full width drawer, and forget pulling out shelves easily to wash them.

I'd rather have my fridge stick out. Honest.

Here is a picture of my fridge door opened up as wide as hinges allow it to go. With my LG model, even if it was recessed to be more like a counter depth with just a 1/2" panel on one side, I think it would still fully open as long as the fridge doors are kept out beyond the wall or panel.

Oh goodness, look at all the fingerprints! Ok, I need to go clean my fridge now... :-)

uh oh

that makes me feel better rebunky. Going to have to make it to the showroom to see the doors in motion. I really wish my cabinet guy didn't take 2 weeks off. He totally deserves it but it's really bad timing for my project.