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Bermuda Grass care (Celebration Bermuda) Advice

11 years ago

In April, I had new sod installed. It is Celebration Bermuda Grass. This is a newly constructed home, so the ground was driven on with heavy machinery for a bit. I'm sure that leads to compaction issues. We have clay type compact soil, which leads to further compaction issues. Water runoff happens a lot.

I also understand the grass is only 4 months old.


Things I have done:

Mow every 3-4 days with a reel mower at 1.5-2 inches. If I mow any lower, I get a crazy looking scalped mess because the ground is uneven, and perhaps I let the grass get too high to begin with. (I was surprised and annoyed to learn that the guy did not till and grade the ground. He just smoothed it, I was at work for much of this stuff.)

Fertilized once a month, I read that Bermuda is a nitrogen hog.

The first time I fertilized, I used Scott's Liquid Turf Builder for new grass (7-12-15) (this worked fantastically)

I was advice by a guy at work to use granular 15-15-15...I did and it didn't do a damn thing.

The next two times with Scott's Liquid turf builder (29-0-3) (second time did good, the third didn't do squat, or so it seemed) Perhaps I should go back to the new grass stuff, since it is new grass, and might not be ready to absorb a lot of nitrogen?

Watering: Every Wednesday and Sunday (4 am and 5pm 25 minutes each station)

It is still very hot here, today's high is 106, so I know it's not time for dormancy, yet. I live the Fresno California area.

The upper picture is in June 17 after two weeks for using the new grass fertilizer(7-12-15). You can see slight yellow, which is still one of my problem areas.

This is today August 17, three weeks after my second application of Scott's Turf Builder (29-0-3). By the trees and other vegetation is still very thick and green. I'm assuming because water is penetrating the soil much deeper than the middle of the lawn, making the roots nice and happy.


Camera filtering played a part making everything look greener in the third picture. The spots by the sandbox in the third picture looks just like the dry looking spots in the 2nd and 4th picture.


I'm thinking I will have to aerate next season. That is only think I can think of. Unless anyone here has further advise.

Thanks in advance.

John D.

Comments (11)

  • 11 years ago

    In that kinda heat with compacted soil, you might have to add a day of irrigation, and back off on the nitro. Bermuda likes nitrogen, but in slow steady dose- not the huge "- shot in the arm" its getting now. It causes excessive growth and scalping. I like to use- 'Best 9-9-9 with iron' .......its usually found at landscape supply places.

  • 11 years ago

    i forgot to say in June, the good picture, it was about 105 then as well.

  • 11 years ago

    I seriously thought about just going with the lower height and deal with the brown nasty look until it retrains and starts the sideways thicker growth, it does not hit the ground.

    I heard about shampooing the ground, but I read a lot of sites claiming it doesn't make a difference, however I haven't tried it yet. Actually going to do that today.

    Organic fertilizer is on my list also.

    The screwdriver test, even when wet I was never able to go down more than a few inches.


    As for the watering, if I water an inch at one time, I will have flooded spots in my yard for a couple days.

    Thank you for your input, DCHALL


    It just baffled me why the lawn looks so different, and I didn't change a darn thing.

  • 11 years ago

    A few inches on the screwdriver is the GOAL for lots of people. They can put their entire weight on the screwdriver and not break the surface. The shampoo helps them, too. I don't read a lot of other websites, but for the ones I read, everyone swears by shampoo. If you're getting long term puddling, the shampoo should help with that. You need to avoid standing water. Cutting off the air supply to the soil microbes might be what caused your soil to turn suddenly. That could happen from a couple of well spaced rain storms.

    I would do the organic fertilizer and shampoo on a priority basis. After the shampoo water as long as you feel comfortable to go deep but avoid puddling. The shampoo will help carry that moisture down deeper into the soil. Once it gets in there, the soil biology will begin to recover. The organic fertilizer will help the biology in the recovery. It is the healthy soil biology that allows water penetration. The goal is to get an inch of water all at one time. You might have to settle for 1/2 inch applied on the half-schedule.

  • 11 years ago

    Sounds like it might have some benefit. Thanks again

  • 11 years ago

    Eight days later and looking much better. I used Scott's Turf builder New grass formula.

    Haven't done the baby shampoo thing yet.

  • 11 years ago

    I'd continue on your current program until your lawn emerges from dormancy, if it ever really gets there, next year.
    I'd core aerify, level it using a drag, and hit it with a preemergent in the Spring next year. You can also add a bag of Milorganite before you drag it. You may have to "spot level", in order to get it really level, in some
    places using sand. I used Sakrete GP sand and a 36" rake, both from my local HD.
    Follow the Bermuda Bible from there.
    Go pick up a reel mower, like the golf courses use on golf greens, and mow it low. Like 1/4 inch low...........It doesn't have to be a crazy expensive model, I got a McClane mower for $220.00. It's a 10 blade model that will mow down to 3/16.

  • 11 years ago

    1/4 is way too low for Celebration ! You should keep it around 3/4, with an occasional low mow ( 3/8 to 1/2) in spring and early fall) for thatch removal.

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Truth, some of what you say makes sense, with how to level and such. However, you didn't read my post entirely. I have a real mower already.

    Also, I'm not really interested in mowing that short. Not to mention I need a very even ground to allow not hitting dirt as I mow. more importantly, I don't have the time to mow it every other day, or every day, to maintain it that short, and I'm not hiring people to do it for me either.

    I am definitely going to core aerate next year, though.

    Thank you too, for your suggestion. :)

    Tom, I was thinking 3/4 to 1.5 myself, depending on the time of year. Thank you too.

  • 10 years ago

    Pick a length & stick with it--Bermuda doesn't really care as long as you're somewhere in the recommended height range. Leave it at your chosen height all season & mow at least every 7th day. Every 5 days is better. The center of your yard is dry because that's where they compacted your ground most when grading & it gets zero shade judging from the pic. A light aeration would help, but so will the shampoo. Throw some good compost or organic fertilizer there as well to help it retain the water.