The first step is taking a good, in depth, look at the soil and these simple soil tests may be of some help.

1) Soil test for organic
material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in
a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and
replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24
hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight.
For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the
bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above
that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole
1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains
away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain
away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs
more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the
soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful
of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is
released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a
finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your
soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant
odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria
will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter
can be bad as well.

5) Life. How many
earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5,
according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that
is not healthy.

You should also know something about the soil pH and major nutrient levels and that may require a soil test by a commercial laboratory.

Animal manures can be washed out of soils that have too little organic matter, although cover crops can help stabilize them. Soil should never be left exposed to the ravages of the sun, rain, and wind but always covered with something growing, just as Ma Nature tries to do by gro9wing what we call "weeds".

kimmq is kimmsr

micasa - you can dig throughout the winter where you are as long as the ground is not too wet. Don't wait until the spring - you'll be wasting time. If the bed is empty now I'd dig it over straight away. You can sow broad beans and peas and plant garlic up until late November and they will overwinter. Next year that bed could be full of overwintering brassicas by now.

Knowing the PH is fairly irrelevant in most of the UK since soils here are more or less neutral outside peat and granite areas. Also it is very unusual for domestic gardeners to bother with soil tests as again few soils are particularly deficient. You'll find no mention of them in most gardening literature. If you can say more precisely where you are it will give a better idea of likely soils. When you say 'rocks' do you mean what we'd call rocks or what we'd call stones? If stones, ignore them. I'm assuming you've started a compost heap. Or you could bury kitchen waste in the beds all through the winter.

You can't tell by looking at it if the soil is depleted. Judging from the soil visible in your NTP query it looks pretty normal for where you are. Compost never hurts but other than that I'd give it a chance. In fact, if there are stinging nettles the soil is probably quite good already as they are a marker for high Phosphate and Nitrogen. Personally, I do not worry about the earthworm quota. I don't think I've ever seen 5 per spadeful on my allotment. I also profoundly disagree with that soil drainage 'test'. I was so sceptical I just went outside and tried it. The hole drained in 4 minutes. I cannot conceive of any soil you are likely to come across in the UK which would take 2 hours to drain apart from possibly solid clay or a bog.

I would suggest you get a good basic book about growing in the UK because conditions are very different from most of the US.

p.s. I don't know how long you've been over here so maybe you already know that we use the word compost to mean two distinct things so watch out if purchase any that you are getting what you want.

Where to start! I just typed up a huge response and lost it so here I go again.

After spending the last three days weeding, transplanting and assessing, I realize the soil in most places is excellent. Moist, friable, sandy, loamy and really pleasing to work in. There's a couple of dry spots by a wall & hedge which have tree roots rotting away in them.

The area I think thats deficient is very close to an old apple tree and a huge yew. It's dry and compacted, filled with flint rocks (wow does it hurt when the spade hits one!) and has acanthus popping up everywhere. I did the jar soil test (thanks for reminding me of that kimmq) and there wan't much to the organic matter level.

I'm in Oxfordshire floral_uk. The place came with a compost heap but it seems to be where all the weeds have been dumped too. Burying the kitchen scraps seems to be a better solution. I would love it if you could recommend a good UK based gardening book. My Sunset Western Gardener isn't going to work here.

I thought I could grow peas over the winter here but everyone I've asked has told me it'll be too cold. I'm going to doing it anyway and see what happens.

ps. floral_uk Only been here a short while but am aware of the differences in composts. Drives me nuts when I'm looking for potting mix and only see signs for compost!

Oh - Oxfordshire! That isn't the South West at all ;-) I was wondering where on earth there is flint in SW England.

You won't ever be able to grow much under a yew so anything that survives is worth having.

As to the peas - they won't actually grow much over winter. What you do is sow in the Autumn so that they are a couple of inches tall at the onset of Winter. Then the idea is they will get away quicker in the Spring. Some years there' not much difference between them and Spring sown seed. Broad Beans (favas) are hardier and an easier overwintering crop for a beginner. Listen to the locals but be aware they may not have much of a clue themselves. If you are up in the Chilterns it could well be too cold. But fleeces or cloches help.

For potting mix look for potting compost or container compost. Also get to know the various John Innes composts.

As for books, my favourite, The Vegetable Garden Displayed, from the RHS, is out of print, I'm afraid. Anything from the RHS should be good.