Semi-true, but...

Yes, HA can act as a wetting agent, bind toxic elements like lead, chromium, and arsenic, it can assist with aeration slowly over time, will help sustain and increase your soil biology, raises your CEC, decreases water evaporation, and acts as lunch for the fungi.

However. Consider how much you're adding with every one application...not very much, even when compared with a basic organic feeding like soybean meal. The changes from the HA will be quite slow.

They don't specify what, or what amount, of hormones and root stimulants they used, nor the percentage of kelp (kelp really enhances flowering plants and it's a staple in my gardens--I use it on the lawn, but the effect is quite minimal). So I can't predict whether there's any actual impact from that.

All things considered, if you wanted to try HA, I'd recommend getting some HA powder from Kelp 4 Less (which, needless to say, also sells concentrated kelp powder). It'll be much cheaper, you mix it at home in a 1-gallon container, and you can admix in 50% kelp at spray time as well. Or, what I do for the lawn and gardens.

If you find that this has good effect, maybe try the Microlife.

I don't know Morph...That all sounds a lot harder than just swinging by the local ace to try some & support 2 local small business owners at the same time. The stuff is made down south of town & the ace owner is a hard working guy, doing their part for America! I don't know either personally, but I'd be proud to shake their hands just for that.

I hear what you're saying about the amounts, but maybe I should try the granular version instead? Then I could put it down at a higher rate maybe than the liquid. I really hope it works half as well as it says. Heck, if it works half as well as their other Microlife products I've tried, I'll be super happy.

A granular would certainly increase the amount of HA going down, but consider in the equation that the granulars are less concentrated at 50% HA or less. On the up side, the remainder that isn't HA tends to be more soil-stable.

For grasses, assuming an already organic feeding regimen, I don't expect much impact from any of those products. I actually blogged a bit about HA and kelp effects in my garden in the September 27, 2015 entry: http://thegreengreengrassofhome.blogspot.com/

As noted, I do like kelp in the gardens as it seems to enhance blooming and performance. I had thrown in the HA because I have it on-hand, but I don't think I'm going to order it again once I finish off what I have.

I put down some of Jonathan Green's Love your Lawn - Love your soil. This is a product that is supposed to be chock full of humates ("ancient primordial life") and other goodies for the soil. Has anyone tried using this product before?

>>("ancient primordial life")

Ground and acid treated Leonardite coal. Just to totally take the romance out of it for you. :-)

Sure won't hurt the soil life!

Meh. Humic acid and fulvic acid are already pretty late stage organic matter in and of themselves, with HA being a much longer molecular chain and more stable than FA.

They'll bind harmful ions--they're not so good at large molecules, like herbicides. But they'll also bind up and immobilize helpful ions like calcium, and the binding will happen in the proportion that they're in the soil (for the most part, electronegativity of the element does play a role).

Most of us don't have an abundance of harmful ions in the soil or, if we do have enough to be a problem the amounts are so large that even enormous amounts of HA won't help. Plus it isn't permanent, as the HA finally decays off, it releases what it holds. Adjusting soil pH into the proper range tends to be the most effective way of binding most elements you don't want kicking around, by locking them into stable molecules that aren't easily picked up by plants. But there's a limit, of course.

I never object to very small amounts of calcium, moderate amounts of iron, or moderately large amounts of molasses. None of the three will hurt, but mind the calcium going down without a soil test. I doubt this is enough Ca to matter.

I'd need to know the amount of Fe and molasses to know if it's going to have much impact.

http://www.jonathangreen.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Love-Lawn-Love-Soil-5M.pdf

I had a little time to do the research. On the up side, they don't advertise this as a humic product...which is good, because it isn't.

Overall, it's an interesting catchall product, but I'd probably fire the individual parts at the soil depending on what I wanted to do. For me, this would contain far too much calcium for use on my soil--except maybe in the garden, lightly.

The heavy hitter is calcium sulfate dihydrate...gypsum. With 23% calcium in the product, this isn't something I'd recommend putting down repeatedly without a soil test, although the pH shift will be minor. In heavily sodic soils (rare in most regions with decent rainfall), it'll help dispel the Na ions. Overall, that'll tend to drop the pH a bit if there's significant sodium.

#2 is calcium carbonate...calcitic limestone, adding to the calcium number. Ditto on the "not without a soil test" thing, and then I'd adjust you with pure calcium carbonate (plus a few percent binder) rather than this, which contains an unknown percentage. Calcium carbonate is 40% Ca by weight, so some of this will lessen the amount of gypsum in the bag (gypsum dihydrate contains 23.3% Ca by weight).

Protein hydrolysate...an extremely weak feeding at #3 on the bag. It's the result of cracking a protein with an acid, base, or enzyme. Your microbes will like the easily-accessed amino acids, but there's really not very much in the bag if they're managing 23% calcium by weight.

Iron Humate, the only humate listed. It's the cheapest way of binding an iron atom so it won't be immobilized instantly by the calcium's side effects, but it's of limited effectiveness at higher pH. At 1% iron, the amount of humate is rather insignificant.

Molasses, at #5, is probably used as a binder to help stick things together. It doesn't contain significant amounts as iron only reaches 1% on the label and this appears below it.

Fyi

Here's another fact sheet from them that shows more info on the acids:

http://www.jonathangreen.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/LoveYourLawn-LoveYourSoil_sheet.pdf

This is where I pulled the info from that I posted.

Plants do produce those quite freely if they're well-fed, but I wouldn't object to adding small amounts. In this case, it won't cause problems as these are all precursors to things like auxins rather than the auxins themselves.

Overdoses of auxins are what herbicides are in many cases, so you wouldn't want to do that. It's also why overapplication of alfalfa is a bad idea on northern lawns...rather than enhance growth, they actually slow or stop it.

But like I said, not a problem. I'm not sure how helpful they are (corrected soil chemistry would enable the plant to produce what it needs when combined with water, air, and sunlight), but certainly not a problem.