I might be missing the mark, but do a search for "three hole shower valve" or "three valve shower" and it should get you some three-handled options.

You'll have to sift through the results, you'll find a mix of exposed and concealed plumbing mixed together.

If you're just looking to replace your existing trim, you'll indeed have a search on your hands, as you'll need to make sure your new trim is compatible with your existing valve(s).

If you're replacing the valve(s) too, then just buy the trim you like and get the valve(s) that go along with it. Here's an example of new valves with cross handles with chrome with a little porcelain on the trim.

If you really want a period look, you can search resale or salvage shops. Truly old school may not have scald protection. You can sometimes add a third-party thermostatic valve. They're about $50-$75. You can see examples of those if you do a search for "in-line anti-scald valve".

For all the models I've browsed on line, it seems I have the option of (1) inexpensive and ugly, (2) reasonably priced, moderately attractive and poorly made or (3) >$650.00 ! I see now why so many use ugly shower/bath fixtures.

The single handle has a big advantage - thermostatic control. Prevents scalding. Some cities require them:

Minnesota:

ubp. 4. Hot water temperature control device for tubs. Bathtubs and whirlpool tubs must be provided with water temperature limiting devices set at a maximum water temperature of 120 degrees Fahrenheit to reduce the risk of scalding, according to ASSE Standard 1070.

When you remodel you may not have a choice.

They are really nice. You set the temperature to your liking. The mixer stays at that temp (you can override) Just turn turn the water on. No fiddling.

Geoffrey b is correct. The international building code, which most states have adapted, require the use of scald guard faucets in tubs and showers. This is strictly a safety issue and should be followed.

A simple call to the local building dept will let one know if the inline anti-scald valve to which Mongo refers, is acceptable. I'd never be discouraged by the unknown.

Why not come into the 21st century? So many reasons to have a one handled faucet. Once the thermostat is set, no need to mess with the water temp every time you take a shower / bath. Also Grohe / Hansgrohe , and probably others have an I-Box - where the entire valve can be replaced / serviced without ripping out the tile. They also have built in service stops.

Also those in-line anti-scald valves need to be buried in the wall. Don't know how you service them / set them (after the first time).

Hansgrohe I-Box

"Also those in-line anti-scald valves need to be buried in the wall.
Don't know how you service them / set them (after the first time)."

You probably know, but some added info for any drive-by readers:

In-line valves like the one I linked to don't get buried in the wall. Typically a whole-house valve will get installed on the outflow from the water heater, or if the house is set up with distribution manifolds for several zones, one can be plumbed on the hot water line for each bathroom zone. It's pretty easy to make it accessible. Depends on how big the house is, or how particular you want to get with temperature control.

A single in-line thermostatic valve like I linked to satisfies anti-scald protection requirements in building code. Code requirements can vary by state. Example, in CT, we have one requirement; to follow the national plumbing code and to not exceed 120 degrees. In NYC, there is added language with different temp requirements for different hot water applications. In multi-units, you need to provide 120 degrees minimum at every hot water tap. In showers, you need 110 to a max of 120. etc.

Is a new thermostatic shower valve right the easiest way to control temp? Probably. But it's not the only way. Especially in remodels in older buildings. Opening up walls to change a valve can result in changes to plumbing, which can lead to all sorts of issues. When remodeling in older buildings or houses, there certainly are different strokes.

I'll add a little extra fluff. There's a balance between the water being hot enough to discourage legionella and being too hot to cause scalding. Where legionella would be a concern, you'd want the anti-scald protection to be as close to the point-of-use as practical. That way you can run hotter water from the water heater, through your supply pipes, all the way to the point-of-use to discourage legionella, and knock the temp down right at the point-of-use for anti-scald.

geoffrey:

First, the inlines are not allowed to be buried, at least in my area and the 5 counties I held a license in.

Second, the OP specifically asked about a 3 handle faucet. They didn't ask about which brand of single lever you prefer.

Can you contribute to the original question?

It's no wonder very few pro's answer to this board anymore.

Why don't you guy's - roof35 and Mongo come into the 21st century?

A whole home tempering valve - really - if something goes wrong it screws up all the facets. Besides one might like to get really hot water, in the laundry tub, etc. Additionally, it's really easy to set the temp in the shower/bath with a point of use valve.

With the I-box (or whatever similar design) I don't understand why you would encourage someone (who is starting over) with an old time design? IMO this is sorta like drum brakes on a car? What's not to like with disc brakes?

Obviously the OP is more concerned about looks rather than performance, or repair. Why not help her. Rather then enable her to make a bad decision?

I can't believe anyone wouldn't want to use the I-Box design, except a Luddite.

geoffrey:

Instead of attempting to hijack threads for your own agenda, start your own thread.

I don't think it's any kind of hijack.

Why don't you respond to the statements that I have made?

What isn't superior to the valve box solution, over the valve body buried in the wall? What's your take on it? Give some detail?

"Why don't you guy's - roof35 and Mongo come into the 21st century?"

geoffrey, seriously? No need to throw bricks. I addressed transitional applications in this paragraph:

"Is a new thermostatic shower valve right the easiest way to control
temp? Probably. But it's not the only way. Especially in remodels in
older buildings. Opening up walls to change a valve can result in
changes to plumbing, which can lead to all sorts of issues. When
remodeling in older buildings or houses, there certainly are different
strokes."

Not everyone wants a gut remodel.Not everyone wants to open up a tiled wall to install a new valve. Not everyone want to disturb original plumbing inside of a wall. Not everyone can, for myriad reasons. But in old construction, you can go from having no scald protection to having scald protection by installing an in-line thermostatic valve.

And they work just fine.

Down the road when a true remodel occurs, then tile can be popped, or complete walls can be opened up, and a shower valve with anti-scald protection can be installed.

If you want different water temps in different locations, you can do so. It's not that hard to do.

It might hurt to think about it, but with "modern construction" what scald protection do you have at a kitchen sink? None. A bathroom sink? None. The only place you have it is in a shower/tub.

If you install an "ancient decrepit" whole-house valve, precious children and Alzheimer-suffering old folk across the globe will have scald protection wherever hot water can flow.

MongoCt: Read the original post. The woman is going to replace the valve - they are remodeling. No reason for patch up stuff. Read for comprehension.

Really, what can't more simple?

"MongoCt: Read the original post. The
woman is going to replace the valve - they are remodeling. No reason
for patch up stuff. Read for comprehension.

Really, what can't more simple?"

C'mon geoffrey. Again, there's no need for sarcasm or insults.

Regarding reading comprehension, here's the original post, I encourage you to read it carefully:

"We have a late 1930/early 40s MidAtlantic row home. Need to replace the tub/shower handles and shower head + trim.

Having a terrible time finding three handle options that are period appropriate and simple + durable.

Open to the type of handle that is a cross shape, or OK with lever-type, but NOT knobs.

Not shiny chrome, but prefer chrome/silver color or chrome+porcelain.

Any ideas of where to look?

Thanks very much!"

No where in that post does the OP say anything about replacing the valve. The OP is asking to replace the TRIM. No mention of valve. The OP wants to replace the handles, shower head, and trim. That's how it's written. Literally. That's how I read it. Literally.

If you go back and read my first post in this thread, I lead the OP through a logical progression for someone wanting to replace only the trim on an old three-handled set-up, then made a comment about replacing the valve, then, if a period look is truly important, going salvage but adding a thermostatic valve for anti-scald protection.

Replace the trim? An 85+ year old faucet. Are you kidding? What does an 85 year old shower / tub look like?

She clearly stated that others she looked at were $650. Seems like a new valve body.

I won't say any more. It's really a useless discussion.

"Replace the trim? An 85+ year old faucet. Are you kidding? What does an 85 year old shower / tub look like?"

It will be difficult to do a trim only replacement. But reading Baltra's first post, there's a description of the style that Baltra is looking for.

Again, read my first post:

1) I told Baltra finding new trim for an old valve would be difficult.

2) In case Baltra couldn't find new trim, I provided a link to new trim with a new valve for the style I thought Baltra was looking for.

3) And in case Baltra didn't find anything period appropriate there, I offered that Baltra might be able to find a period-appropriate trim in a salvage or resale yard, and that salvage goods could be upgraded with an in-line thermostatic valve to provide anti-scald protection.

"She clearly stated that others she looked at were $650. Seems like a new valve body."

When she quoted $650 for a new valve body and trim kit, that was NOT a part of her original post. If you're going to be a stickler for reading comprehension, you can't revise the content of the thread to suit your needs. Baltra mentioned the $650 AFTER Baltra followed the link I provided to new valve bodies and trim kits, and I provided that link in case she couldn't find new trim only.

I simply don't understand the negative theme of your posts through this thread.

It's an internet forum.

So much more excitement than I anticipated!

my plumber tells me I need the fixture and the trim. Nothing about valves. Not a remodel. Tub in great shape, tile too.

I had hoped to spend under $500- for everything. Realizing now I have no real idea what the price range might be, especially after looking through the offerings on the faucets direct website. I'm clearly less than sophisticated when it comes to my faucet budget. Which is funny since aesthetics actually matter to me

scalding not an issue, I have the hot water heater adjusted to hot enough, but won't burn.

Thanks, y'all!

This place can be (ahem) dramatic at times. Glad your plumber was able to help you out.

Good luck with it all!