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ellenros_gw

need a plan for the squash bugs!

10 years ago

Last year was my first veggie garden in our new home. Built raised beds, planted lots of tomatoes, squash, melons, pumpkins. By the time I realized I had squash bugs they already had the run of the place! Didn't help that I have a giant compost pile that was growing something (pumpkins, it later turned out), and my brown thumbed self was so overjoyed that things were growing that I let it go wild. Turned into squash bug heaven! I sprayed with sevin multiple times, killed thousands, but didn't put a dent in the population. Anyhoo, between the compost pile, the wood pile next to it, and the 5 raised beds next to that, I am assuming that I will have a pretty serious problem next year. Please help! I would like to avoid poison, but I would like to actually get some zucchini too. Is there anything I could do now? I really feel like the magnitude of the problem was due to my inaction early on.

Comments (14)

  • 10 years ago

    If you search GardenWeb for SVB you will find a plethora of conversations about this topic. Many as recent as 2015.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Safer insecticide soap is recommended by Johnny's. I use dish soap and water in a spray bottle -- kills on contact.

    Also, run around with inside out duct tape to pull the eggs off the undersides of leaves before they hatch.

  • 10 years ago

    Squash bugs rather than SVB, right? Row covers as already suggested and kaolin clay dust (Surround).


    Squash bug control discussions

    Dave

  • 10 years ago

    I always thought they were the same thing! Acckk. Thanks for the correction, now I know.

  • 10 years ago

    For all leaf-footed bugs, which is what squash bugs are, repeated dusting of the whole plant with diatomaceous earth seems to work well for me. Mist the plant, then dust. The dust will stick better. Maybe kaolin clay works similarly. You could also get a portable vacuum cleaner and just suck 'em up. Since they breed furiously, you really have to be attentive early in the season. Once they get established, it's hard to keep up with them. Row covers will keep them out, but they are a lot of work, at least in that they'll mostly call for hand pollination.
    The bugs do over-winter in mulch, but aside from moving all your mulch cover, I don't think there's much you can do early in the season to prevent them.

  • 10 years ago

    I've never heard of diatomaceous earth for squash bugs. They are perhaps the most difficult of pests to handle organically (I shudder at all the Sevin you sprayed). I cover the plants with row covers until they start to flower. Then I patrol them twice a week, checking under the leaves for the orange egg masses. It's extremely labor intensive, but I do manage to carry through one hill of zuchinni and one of butternut, both hills with two plants each. If you lay boards down near the plants and check them during the heat of the day, you're likely to catch some adults. Though they're quite large and mean looking, they don't bite or sting and you can grab them, throw them to the ground and crush them with your feet.

  • 10 years ago

    I had so many of them that I was crushing them with my hands by the end of the season! My irritation and anger outweighed my squeamishness! Never thought of the hand vacuum, that's a fantastic idea! So, with the row covers, aren't the bugs over wintering IN the garden? Or would I need to start a new raised bed with clean dirt? Also, I read on one of the other threads that someone saturated the ground with neem oil in the fall/winter, which cut back on them drastically. Anyone tried something like that?

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Row covers can be used in any gardening situation, but your forethought is the key.

    They fit very well into a schedule of rotation. For example... in my garden, 2016's squash will be rotated into a bed that did not host 2015's cucurbits. While it is possible, the odds are pretty good that there will be no over-wintering bugs in those 2016 beds. I'll be disrupting them anyway by clearing the winter mulch and turning the bed before planting, so the odds will be even less.

    Another plus for me to choose row covers (besides the above mentioned, and there being no need for chemicals) is that I grow heirlooms and save seeds. The row covers ensure that my seed will set 'true'. Yes, I do have to hand-pollinate, and that does take commitment, but for me, the technique fits perfectly into my routine and the pluses outweigh the minuses (it also defeats the SVB, a huge problem where I live.)

    If you want to use row covers without the rotation, then just be diligent to remove/replace the mulch and disrupt the surface a bit a few times before spring planting.

    I would say that you are well on your way to find a control solution that fits into a style of gardening that best works with your conditions and expectations.

    While I may someday decide that neem oil, or some other similar pest control may be necessary, at this time I have not tried, nor have had reason to try it out for any pest problem. Hopefully someone else has that experience.

  • 10 years ago

    So, with the row covers, aren't the bugs over wintering IN the garden?
    Or would I need to start a new raised bed with clean dirt?

    No. Insect barriers are simply wrapped on each plant, like rgreen said once the mulch is well disturbed, and adjusted as each plant grows. Bush varieties are easier than vining varieties are to cover. If you till your beds before planting then there is even less of an issue. And a couple of early checks for any stragglers or eggs that might have made it thru eliminates the problem for the season. Hand pollination is easy to do and IME results in a much better crop than depending on insects. Plus you end up with pure seed rather than a bunch of weird crosses.

    Also, I read
    on one of the other threads that someone saturated the ground with neem
    oil in the fall/winter, which cut back on them drastically. Anyone tried
    something like that?

    The first rule of garden pest control is first you ID the pest, use the least toxic control available for that specific pest, and use it per label directions. Indiscriminate use of any pesticide, organic or synthetic, only insures killing beneficial insects and soil
    beneficials so should be avoided.

    Dave

  • 10 years ago

    And there is no organic control for the adults, so I don't see how saturating the soil with neem oil would have any effect.

  • 10 years ago

    Well, I still wonder about DE. That works well for me on stink bugs and other leaf-footed bugs, so since squash bugs ARE leaf-footed bugs, you'd think it would work on them. I don't have squash bugs, so I've never tested it out on them, but is it clear that it doesn't work? Kinda strange.

  • 10 years ago

    I haven't tried DE, so I have no idea if it works for squash bugs or not.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Depending upon your growing zone and the maturity of your squash plants here what I do - Before the first buds open up to bloom the plant will have it's oldest leaves low and resting upon the ground. Gently lift up each of these low old leaves and check the underside, you may be surprised to find several adult squash bugs clinging to the under side the leaf waiting there for mates to show up. If you can kill them early their numbers won't be so overwhelming later on. Hand crushing them (w/ latex gloves) is easy as they are slow to react once exposed. I killed several dozen yesterday and each day more will congregate under the same leaves looking for mates. Funny how they prefer the oldest leaves resting upon the ground, then lay their eggs on the younger leaves after mating. Nip em' in the bud!...err, aah, leaf!

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