I'm not quite sure I'm following what you're saying. Are you saying that Ikea's shallow drawers are too shallow to be useable and the deeper drawers have too much space, so you're putting in more shallow drawers which isn't working? Are you trying to reconfigure where to put things?

I put coffee cups in a wall cabinet, not a drawer. My dinner and salad plates, as well as bowls are in a deep drawer. My cabinets are frameless which gives you more useable interior space.

I agree, I love my frameless cabinets!

I'm eagerly awaiting pictures when you have all your drawers in place beachem!

Last year I measured the things I stored in my kitchen and was surprised most every thing would fit in a 5" drawer. So then the question becomes how many 5" drawers will fit in a stack?

How are you doing your drawer fronts? Are you using interior drawers in your stacks? Toe kick drawers?

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@designsavvy I was saying that frameless cabinets give you the most flexibility and storage. With a 5" drawer, I can easily store everything I need. Whereas a 5" drawer in a framed cabinet was useless to me because it didn't fit anything other than silverware since the usable height was 3.5" or less.

To everyone else, I'll measure when I get home today what I've done so far and the items I used to design the height of the drawers.

@llucy I have three ways of doing the drawer fronts.

Here's my pantry so you can see the difference. The bottom 3 drawers are regular install per IKEA. They will have custom drawer fronts.

The top drawers are indented in by almost 3". Those will have interior drawer fronts that are 1/2". I just bought the wood from HD today and will be finishing it with clear lacquer then install. Doors will cover the indented drawers.

The top shallow drawers are all 7.5" or so. The 4th drawer up will be replaced by a pull out shelf and it's about 14".

Work in progress picture. I made a lot of mistakes on this because I only measured one side at first. Took me 3 days to readjust and fix mistakes. (I was taking care of my mom too so it's not 8hrs a day).

You can see how close I set the slides to the back of the cabinets.

I also have toe kick drawers that will use toe kick covers as drawer fronts.

Definitely more space with frameless. Hope you're enjoying it! My bath vanity at my last house was made with Ikea Akurum. Loved the functionality of it.

We're going frameless too, I really prefer them both lookwise and that they have the extra storage!

I made my own frameless cabinets, and inside the drawers are 4, 7, 7, and 11. The bottom drawers include the toe kick. My pet peeve with framed cabinets is the top frame, which is like a magnet for long objects in a drawer, sucking them upward and preventing the drawer from opening.

This is killing me! I've lost the frameless battle. We'll have tons of cabinet space, so we don't need every inch of possible space... but I don't like knowing that were was available space that we didn't take advantage of.

@mushcreek -- ugh, yes! I might mention that to my husband and see if it's a tipping point. That is a pet peeve for both of us.

Pippie, what does he not like about frameless?

Pippiep I'm doing framed inset for the upper cabinets and frameless full overlay for everything else. Would a split compromise like that work?

I can't stand the upper drawer in a framed because of that issue with things locking the drawer. It happens on a weekly basis.

We talked about doing both (framed uppers, frameless lowers), but we're not 100% sure the doors/spacing would look the same. Also, we moved into the full-custom line for our cabinets, which only comes in framed.

designsaavy -- my husband makes furniture, and frameless just looks "wrong" to him.

I prefer frameless too for the extra space. I've been debating whether we can do framed uppers to look like an old butler's pantry look and frameless lowers with the pantry cabinets frameless. Decisions, decisions.

Oh my, I wanted full use of my blind corner so I thought this Medallion option would be good.

Ummm at $1800, no thank you. Even the dealer was shocked at the price.

The cheap kidney shape ones would be $980.

The Kraftmaid wood version is $680.

It's going to be amateur hacking time again. I have a choice of IKEA drawers or $5 custom dovetail wood drawers to use up.

I wonder how hard it really would be to create something along the lines of the $1800 blind corner set-up. I am thinking it would be fairly simple to put sliding shelves w/ full extension into the back space. Maybe, for the front area, a combo of floor attached glides for the bottom, and somehow make something strong enough to support a shelve on a glide that attaches only on one side for a higher 2nd shelf. Stagger the shelves so their glides don't collide. But, there needs to be a way to get the front shelves out of the way short of detaching them from the slides, like the swivel shown above, and I am stuck on that. I bet there is some piece of hardware out there somewhere that would do it, I just don't know where to find it

@raee I have large dovetail drawers that I'm going to use for the blind corner and revise the cabinets on that wall for a 24" cab that pulls out. It will be similar to my pull out table on the other side of the rangetop.

This will lower my cost to $64 without the counter and drawer fronts factored in.

@ numbers here are the (frameless) IKEA measurements you asked for.

The top drawer at 4.5" still has plenty of space for the knives so I'm shifting that up but it's perfect there fit most everything else like large coffee cups and containers.

The new Sektion only has a thin strip of metal vs my 3/4" spacer so you will have even more room.

Here is the entire cab with measuremen of where my drawers are. I had to take the picture one handed from a front while leaning back so the tape is a bit swiveled.

This is my media cab so the heights may not work for your needs. The nice thing about IKEA is that you can keep adjusting the drawers until you find the magic combo.

I've adjusted my pantry drawer height again yesterday after trying out storage stuff.

Stuff inside for an idea of storage in a base cab.

That's a 56 oz and 252 oz container in a 7.5" height drawer.

7.5" can store a lot. I put two different baskets in for comparison. The blue is not a small basket. I don't usually go much larger than the blue because things will get lost inside if it's bigger.

Hi Beachem, are you doing toe kick drawers under your pantry? Is it a custom drawer?

Also, I am not sure I understand you when you say that you can keep adjusting the drawers. I thought the IKEA Drawer fronts only come in certain sizes, doesn't that limit your drawer height?

@guco, I'm using IKEA drawers for all my toe kicks including under the pantry.

I'm ordering custom drawer fronts and doors from Conestoga so I can customize heights to my heart's content. The uppers will also be from Conestoga as they are beaded inset.

I'm using IKEA because I want frameless for my drawers and that extra storage. I'm even ordering custom frameless base cab from a local company for the sizes that IKEA doesn't carry such as 48" x 30"D.

In a framed cabinet, you can eliminate the horizontals between drawers in order to have deeper drawers. Am I missing something?

Like this:

For the blind corner, Lee Hardware makes a pullout that is a lot cheaper than those shown. I like mine a lot; or I did until the granite installers had to do a lot of grinding and got granite dust in the workings.