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juli730

paint prep

10 years ago

This woodwork has 180 yrs worth of paint on it. I want to paint it a historical red, but I refuse to paint over layers of chipped and peeling paint, so I decided I was going to strip it. Bad idea. I researched the safety precautions you have to take with lead paint and thought I was prepared. At the rate I'm going , it would take me a year to strip what I want to paint. Has anyone used either encapsulator or something called triple thick peel stop? Will either product smooth out my surface enough so that when I paint all the peeled and chipped layers won't be so obvious? Thanks for your help!

Comments (14)

  • 10 years ago

    Ive gone the filler route in the past, and what tends to happen is that when I go to sand it smooth the layer is so thin that it sands right off. Is there some kind of compound that takes to sanding better? And what about the texture difference? would primer/sealer over the filler fix that?

  • PRO
    10 years ago

    Have you considered replacing the wood?


    I frequently use products similar to triple thick peel stop on exterior work. They do help smooth the surface, but I do not believe it would solve your problem.

    Juli thanked PPF.
  • 10 years ago

    I have, briefly, considered re[placing the wood. Its something that is beyond my diy capabilities. I don't mind the character of the wood thats there, its more the chippy paint that drives me crazy. I bought some encapsulator, since I know that if it doesn't do what hope then at least ill be covering up the lead!


  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    It doesn't look that bad too me as far as layers of paint go. Take out the shag carpet on the stairs tho... what's underneath it anyway? I would want to get to bare wood. Any better pictures of your staircase? I'd be VERY hesitant to paint this red.

    Juli thanked User
  • 10 years ago

    oh boy... why not? The woodwork in the other end of the house is all red (the one just below the black on the side of the steps). I would love to expose the wood on the stairs, (the carpet is definitely going!) but the time it will take me is probably not what I can spare. There are a couple other color choices on the door. Im open to suggestions!

  • 10 years ago

    I should also mention that I would love to paint that door black. I did It in my laundry room and I love the look. haha and i just realized I didn't attach the pics to my last comment!

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    I like the black door tho. And the sample of your stringer in black looks nice. Or even deep black blue. The red looks a little too cutesy (like Holly Hobby cutesy). The darker tones look nice. Adult.

    Juli thanked User
  • PRO
    10 years ago
    I tend to put my effort into the areas that are at eye level ( the old house adage is don't look up don't look down) so I would spend more time on door and window casings than I would baseboards.

    Have you tried a heat gun? Chemicals are SLOW. get down to something solid, get a good base of oil primer on there, then fill with wood filler, prime and paint.
    Juli thanked Ellsworth Design Build
  • 10 years ago

    Hi Juli. What's your plan for the stairs under the carpet? You might want to remove it first before you work on the wood. I like plastic wood as a filler. It doesn't shrink and is easy to sand. I like a heat gun as well. So much easier and environmentally friendly than chemical strippers. Good luck with your project!

    Juli thanked katinparadise
  • 10 years ago

    yes i have tried a heat gun. The wood was so hot it made me nervous!

  • 10 years ago

    My hope for under the carpet was to get down to wood and stain. There are so many cool things being done with staircases... Ive been trying to keep things in line with what it may have looked like in 1825.

  • 10 years ago

    Heat guns require diligence, there's no doubt about that! The trick is to keep them moving. It sounds as though you're in for a big project whichever way you go. You'll have to think of it as a labor of love! Good luck Juli.

    Juli thanked katinparadise
  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    I've used Peel stop on exterior jobs before. Pretty awesome stuff. As far as leveling out the imperfections, perhaps some glazing putty (basically thinned out bondo)after your sealing would do the trick? It's used in final body work and can be feathered out to nothing....

    Juli thanked User