Not many conifers will deal with standing water. For an evergreen option, I would consider green giant or Chamaecyparis thyoides for that 25ft section.

I'd also check the drainage in the other areas, because even if there isn't standing water, if it's clay, it could stay soggy for extended periods of time. I would say Blue spruce isn't a good screening choice outside their native range... They lose their lower branches in time and are very prone to disease. Norway are bulletproof, and white spruce should be OK as well, assuming proper drainage.

Thank you for the quick response! I would say the soil is about 4-5 inches of top soil, followed with a gritty clay like soil. Seems almost like a sand/clay mix.

I've done the research on the trees, but nobody really says if there okay in standing water or not. My father has a lot of white spruce in the same soil and they have taken off. He is higher grade then I am and does not have standing water.

I am just worried about 1 spot in the yard, I want to keep all the trees the same. I think I'm going to pull the trigger on first row being white spruce, and the second Norway spruce.

Thanks!

i am on a lot of feet of mineral sand .... extreme high drainage ...

during spring thaw.. or torrential rains ... there can be standing water ... the trees dont care ... because it simply doenst hang around long enough to suffocate the roots ....

even sc above says .... extended periods of time

and the biggest problem is... this is near impossible to discuss this only in terms of words ... nor cross country online ...

you are basically going to just wing it ...

you didnt answer any of my other questions... good luck... [size.. method.. etc]

ken

Jesse, I'm your neighbor, roughly speaking. I would encourage you to concentrate on the Norway spruce. White spruce would be my second choice, but the Norways will be more vigorous and IMO, more beautiful with time.

As to their withstanding that wet area, I have seen them do okay in such spots. It's a bit of a crap shoot, in that we don't really know exactly how wet is wet in this case, though you've done a good job of explaining the situation.

I might try to source some straight species northern white cedar-that is, Thuja occidentalis...from the DNR or similar vendor so that you are getting the actual tree, not an arborvitae cultivar, although a few of those are pretty close. Somebody up above said try Green Giant arbs and I'm going to have to say, those things are marginal in our area (I'm right near you) doing okay some winters and just about burning right up some others. I've learned to accept that plain old species Thuja o.s are best for us....just like nature already knew! Now the funny thing about planting these "cedars" in this wet area....in nature, they have the greatest ability to grow in very wet soils of any native tree around here. Yet somehow, when we plant into that water-logged soil, it can be a struggle to get anything to survive. All you can do is try. Another native conifer to us which has good adaptation to high water table-although you rarely see them as far south or east as GB, is balsam fir. You know where to get those right? The Nicolet National Nursery! No, I kid, just dig them out of the ditch somewhere up north. They're considered weed trees in the woods anyway.

Ken, I agree that we do not have enough information, but the OP did say that water sits for a full week in the spring time. I would think that would be enough to cause major issues for all but the most water loving conifers.

If you read the forums, you will find that many people like to mix species, in case some type of disease or pest starts damaging one, you don't lose the enter 275ft Row! It's your choice, but even with the potential drainage issue aside, I would consider adding variety, for the reason mentioned above.

Water Drainage Test

Hey guys,

Ken, I appolgoize for not being able to answer all your questions. I simply do not know enough about trees and soil in my area, and that is why I came to the forums.

As I stated in my OP, that water sits for maybe a week in the spring, I would say a solid .5" - 1" and slowly seeps away. I've spoken to a local landscaper/nursery, and in his situation, the White Spruce he has that also sit in water for that same week, have taken off BETTER then the spruce never exposed to standing water.

Wisconsitom- Thank you for the response. It seems that you know the area better then myself! As you stated, the Norway Spruce would be in your opinion a better fit then the White Spruce. I would not have a issue planting (2) rows of just Norway, but then again I do like variety in the yard, and to prevent against disease/pest damages them as sc77 stated. The vendor I am looking to order through (Hickory Grove Nursery, out of Maribel WI) does indeed have the White Cedar available also. Now I am questioning doing a row of White Cedar, followed by a row of Norway Spruce. Although I will be researching the balsam fir a bit too! I have a solid month before I order, just trying to come to a decision.

As all of you have stated, its a trap shoot. I realize if we do not have a all to wet spring, everything would probable be fine once the roots are established. I also understand that sometimes they work, sometimes they do not.

I appreciate everybody's input, just trying to understand my best chance of tree survival with the conditions I am trying to explain, last thing I want to do is have to replant due to not getting reliable information such as you guys are giving me.

Thank you!

Good deal, Jesse. I wish you much success. Our region needs all the trees it can get! Incidentally, my sons and I own a few acres up near Suring-not very far away at all-and there we have planted about 10,000 trees thus far. The majority have been: white pine, red pine, Norway spruce, and hybrid larch. A smattering of others too, including white spruce. It's a good tree for sure, for our area. I know of some good-sized white spruce growing in swamps, so I agree, they are able to handle fairly high water tables. All are doing very well. Our woods is full of "cedar", the quotation marks are there to indicate that I understand that the tree we call cedar is not a true cedar in botanical terms.....but you know what I mean.

Hey, I did not know about Hickory Grove-sounds like a good outfit if they carry some native stuff. Bravo!

By all means, keep in touch as you go along. I may have a good deal more help or advice to offer. This is right in my wheelhouse!

In addition to those mentioned, you might also consider Tsuga canadensis as they often are located where spring flooding soaks the soil temporarily.

tj

Your initial plan is a reasonable one.

Norway Spruce is generally a tougher, faster growing tree in suburban environments. White Spruce is supposed to be somewhat tolerant of wet soil. I'd probably put the Norway Spruce in front since it is likely to be more attractive.

Blue Spruce is gorgeous where it grows well, but can be picky about humidity levels and vulnerable to spider mites...look around your neighborhood to see if they look ratty near you.

Since you mentioned cedar, I'm rather a fan of the aesthetics of the Alaskan Cedar.

Arborvitae is the standard answer for a privacy screen in wet soil.

It might be marginal in your location and it's deciduous, but Bald Cypress is a conifer VERY tolerant of wet feet. Larch/tamarack are also deciduous but tolerate wet feet.

You said there are a few wet patches. Remember, you are under no obligation to plant all your trees in a row, or plant only trees of the same species. In fact, it is probably better not to. You could plant trees in front of those wet patches, or use a different species there. Start planting in the dry patches when the weather warms...you can decide on trees for the wet parts later.

Look up your USDA Zone and Soil Type.

Also, check out your County Soil Conservation District.

Jesse, Ed mentions arborvitae, and it is there-just to reiterate-that I would urge you to seek out species Thuja occidentalis, aka arborvitae, aka northern white cedar, instead of a landscape cultivar. It's a great plant just the way god/nature intended it, and the wilder you go, the more apt it is to actually acclimate to the wetness of the site. Like your guy in Maribel offers. Speaking of which, our state's record large northern white cedars used to be found at Maribel Caves County Park. Enormous trees-I think a tornado tore everything up around there since I've been there.

TJ mentions hemlock, and that would be a good addition to this plan as well. Keep in mind too that if you do end up using Norway spruce, that species will burst out of the ground with great vigor, so don't put a slow-grower behind (in the shade) of these, as they will forever tower over the little guys.

I didn't address Colorado spruce in my initial response, but I will here: Used to be a reasonable plant for our area but I wouldn't waste my time with it now. Without getting too far into the details, let's just say there are a host of disease issues which render these plants unattractive at best, and kill them at worst. The Norway and white spruces will be far happier in our area.