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Sewing
bbstxx

Zipper woes

10 years ago

I am making a seersucker sundress for DD. It is a test run with inexpensive fabric before I cut into some nicer linen.

The only invisible zipper available to me here in Podunk Corners was a Coats and Clark from Walmart. The zipper instructions specify using only the Coats and Clark zipper foot. Unfortunately, none of the shanks work with my very cheap, very old Kenmore portable machine. I pulled out an old Unique invisible zipper foot, adjusted it to match the C&C foot, and forged ahead. The zipper installed seemingly properly. It opens and closes well. It is invisible in the seam. BUT it ripples.

Below is the garment with the zipper installed and the lower portion of the seam sewn up. It has been pressed repeatedly. Obviously, the side seams are still open and the facings haven't been applied yet.

The fabric is light weight but not extremely light weight. I don't think the weight of the zipper is causing the wrinkles.

HELP! This looks so H.O.M.E.M.A.D.E. What have I done wrong? How do I fix it?

Featured Answer
  • 10 years ago

    Did you use a lightweight interfacing on the seam area where the zipper is inserted?

    Comments (9)

    • 10 years ago
      last modified: 10 years ago

      Clt3, I did not interface the seam where the zipper is. I've never done that before. A neighbor who is a good seamstress looked at it and thinks it may be the seersucker material. I have already ripped it out 2.5 times. She advised me not to rip it out again for fear of weakening the fabric.

      Is the interfacing for stability? This fabric is pretty stable. I think the better fabric I have is heavier than this. Would you advise interfacing on all fabrics or just on some? How do I know which? Do you just put it on the wrong side about where the stitching for the zipper will be?

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    • 10 years ago

      Yes, I would cut strips of fusible interfacing wider than the seam allowance and a little longer than the zipper. I do that for pretty much every fabric except upholstery weight. It is for stability . Also try switching to a microtex needle.

      bbstx thanked clt3
    • 10 years ago

      Thanks. I've never heard of a microtex needle but I have found them on Amazon. Now I just need to figure out what size.

      btw, the coral dress is absolutely gigantic on DD. She tried it on today. I believe with twins she'll need it eventually, but right now it just looks ridiculous. I may not cut into the linen until she is a little further along.

    • 10 years ago

      Perhaps try some basting tape? If you are going to wait then could you order a zipper that you feel your machine would handle properly? Love Microtex needles, too.

      bbstx thanked User
    • 10 years ago
      last modified: 10 years ago

      The only zipper I've ever successfully been able to install is an invisible zipper. Do you have any recommended brands?

      I've ordered the Microtex needles!


    • 10 years ago
      last modified: 10 years ago

      FWIW, I was taught that if a seam is on the straight of grain, it may ripple like that & to make the seam slightly off grain to prevent it. Might be the type of fabric as well. Did you try steaming it out yet?

      bbstx thanked carolb_w_fl_coastal_9/10
    • 10 years ago

      It got better with steaming. I've been looking at this zipper a lot. The zipper tape is rippled. I'm fairly certain it wasn't rippled when I took it out of the package. Is it possible that I stretched it somehow either when I was ironing it flat or when I was sewing it in? I can't imagine zipper tape stretching, though.

    • 10 years ago

      Well, my mom used to preshrink zippers. I think they can looked rippled if you used a short stitch length also.

      bbstx thanked clt3
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