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Using native/naturalized grasses for a lawn

10 years ago

Years ago, I had the option of getting untreated/unmetered water or irrigation. I think it was going to cost $1500 to get the water to the property line, then I'd have to pay a plumber to hook it up (done incorrectly, I could get back flow into the culinary system. Then it would cost $85/year for unlimited water use. The people pushing the plan said it would pay for itself in 3 years.

At the time, I was paying about $100/summer for the overages due to watering the lawn, so I would have saved only $15/year (so it would take a bit more than 3 years to pay for itself).


So many people made the switch, that they were losing a lot on the culinary water, so they dropped the point at which they started charging more.


So watering was going to start costing a lot more. I decided that I still didn't want to get the unmetered water, so I started looking into native and naturalized grasses.

Native grasses are grasses that are native to the area (think of the prairie grasses that were here feeding the buffalo, elk, etc). Naturalized grasses are grasses that were imported from someplace else, but that are well adapted to this climate.


At first, I wanted to restrict myself strictly to natives, but eventually decided that I was open to naturalized grasses, as well.


There was some interest at the time in native grasses for lawn, mostly around buffalo grass with a little bit of interest in blue grama. Both of those are warm season grasses, and would likely be dormant from mid October or so until mid May or so. Buffalo grass spreads via stolons (like rhizomes, but above ground). Blue grama is a bunch grass, but can spread slowly via tillering (new plants springing up right next to the parent).


I decided that I wanted my lawn to be green longer than that, so I looked into cool season grasses.


Most of what I found about alternative cool season grass at that time dealt with crested wheatgrass. Crested wheatgrass is an import from Siberia that (if I remember correctly) was brought to the US in the 1930s in an attempt to help stabilize soil after the dust bowl. Crested wheatgrass is primarily a bunch grass, but there are a few newer varieties that are rhizomatous.


I also found out about streambank wheatgrass, a native grass that (despite its name) does well without much water. It's also rhizomatous.


Sheep fescue is a native bunch grass that can spread slowly via tillering. Most grasses that do well in low water environments have extremely deep root systems, but sheep fescue seems to do well with roots that are shallower, but extensive. It does well with very little water, but it tends to suffer more in hot conditions.


Western wheatgrass is also native and rhizomatous, but doesn't seem to be used in lawns very much.


I never planted any buffalo grass, but planted some of each of the others. I also added some Dutch white clover and strawberry clover (similar to DWC, but does better in higher pH soil).


I decided to overseed into my existing lawn, hoping that the natives would overcome the more traditional KBG/TTTF that was there to start. At times, I wish I had killed it all and seeded from the start.


At the time I did this, I was finding and buying seeds from a variety of different sources. Now, there's a mix available that is pretty close to what I used (no western wheatgrass or clover): http://www.utahseed.com/page3.php


I think blue grama makes an attractive grass and is green a little earlier in the spring and a little later in the fall than buffalo grass would be. If you don't mind a slightly tall lawn, you could get by without mowing it at all (it would spread less without mowing). I've seen wild patches of it green in unwatered areas toward the end of summer with no water, so I think it would stay green in a lawn in the intermountain west without any irrigation. It's a lighter green than KBG with a little blue in it. It has fine blades.


Sheep fescue, crested wheatgrass and streambank wheatgrass are all fine bladed and a nice shade of green. They're a bit lighter green than KBG, but still a nice color.


Western wheatgrass has wider blades and is more of a blue green. It's also harder to get to sprout.


I've tried seeding in the fall using my sprinklers and also dormant seeding, and had the best results dormant seeding.


I think I watered twice last year and my lawn was mostly green all summer. My goal is to water 2-3 times a year. I will say that when it's not raining and I'm not watering much, although it stayed mostly green, it didn't grow much, so I didn't water. I also no longer fertilize.

Comments (6)

  • 10 years ago

    Thanks for sharing this BP. I have been looking into a way to replace my tired, worn out, and crappy looking KBG with something much more suited to our climate.

    It seems work surrounding the native grass lawns focuses on buffalo and blue grama. Fine grasses (I use a lot of blue grama in my landscaping) but I have always thought that there had to be others. This whole area, as you said, was prairie with a seemingly endless array of choices.

    The first one the came to mind was western wheat, which grows extensively across the Front Range. The reason it came to mind is because it is a sod forming grass. But it's also very tall and coarse, regular mowing may help make it more "flat," but I have trouble imagining walking across a lawn of western wheat barefoot.

    Recently we seeded a lot of Canada rye at work, so I started looking into that, too. It's a bunchgrass though, and I'm unsure if consistent mowing forces tillering like it does with blue grama. It's also extremely tall and coarse.

    The absentee neighbor's lawn has been taken over by smooth brome. It looks gorgeous right now, but when it gets cut, its very "stemmy" rather than leafy. I am also not a huge fan of the fact smooth brome has overtaken most of what's left of the native xeric tallgrass prairie that we have here, forcing out the community of big and little bluestem, switch and Indian grass and turning it into a monoculture.

    USDA calls Indian grass a "rhizomatus bunchgrass" so mowing might encourage tillering with that. but once again, my main concern is the coarseness and that cutting taller grasses will lead to "stemminess", although, if done regularly, it might not. It's also warm-season however.

    Another thing is that some grasses don't respond as well to cutting as others. For example, not that it would otherwise make a good turfgrass, but you could not repeatedly mow down little bluestem through the growing season without killing it.

    I will be looking into the fesuces that you mentioned, they sound promising. Do you know how all these stand up to traffic?

  • 10 years ago

    The only fescues I've dealt with are K31 and sheep fescue. K31 is tough, but not a good choice for a lawn.

    I planted the sheep fescue long after traffic was a consideration, so I can't help with that.

    What I've been suggesting for the last few years is to use the cabin mix I linked above, If you want, you can add DWC or strawberry clover, or you can use it as is.

  • 10 years ago

    If you are still interested, have you looked into Arkansas Valley Seed (www.avseeds.com). They are located here in Denver and we use them pretty regularly at work (just picked up two pallets of sorghum from them yesterday in fact). I'm not sure if they distribute out to Utah or not, but might be worth looking into.

    Anything has got to be an improvement over what I've got going on now, and each year it only get's worse, despite my best efforts. Showcase isn't what I'm after, I would settle for "alive." It's gotten so bad recently that dock, mullein and Canada thistles have started to show up. Great, now I not only have a dreadful lawn, but I'm harboring noxious weeds.

    Part of the problem I know is the watering, my irrigation system sucks. Sprinkler heads that either don't work properly, and don't hit areas evenly. I'm tired of replacing the heads, and I don't have the desire to revamp the poorly designed layout. In any case, after too many years of this, the KBG (which is well over 30 years old and never had much attention paid to it to begin with) is just completely worn out. KBG is piss-poor choice for the Front Range anyways, FAAAAR too much effort to keep looking decent than it's worth. So, I am looking for alternatives that, while they may not be the most beautiful, will actually survive without constant pampering.

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Hey there!

    How are the lawns doing?

    RMG has a question about Streambank Wheatgrass. Think that there could be some updates? I'm sure that they would be appreciated.

    Steve

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I'm not sure of the exact varieties, but we opted for a rye/tall fescue blend when we added our lawn. It gets watered once per week, or less if we get rain. I don't notice it greening up later than our neighbors' lawns, which are all Kentucky Blue. We also don't do any fertilizing, other than leaving the cut grass in place to add nutrients back into the soil. We have never aerated or added chemicals of any sort to our lawn, and I have to say, it looks healthier than the KB lawns that seem to require all kinds of maintenance. The only maintenance our lawn needs is weekly mowing during the summer (less than weekly in the fall and spring when it grows more slowly), and hand weeding to keep the bind weed, dandelions, and other weeds at bay.

    In our boulevard area (between the sidewalk and street), we planted Buffalo grass from seed. It took some water to get it established (about 10 years ago), but filled in nicely within a couple of years. In the spring when it's still dormant, species tulips and few mats of phlox give it some color, and in the summer flax, poppy mallow, and California poppies give it a meadow look. We thatch it once a year in the spring but it doesn't need mowing. If we had to do it over again, I probably would have used Buffalo grass for the whole backyard lawn, which is in full sun. The only place it doesn't work well is in the shade. I'm also not sure how it would hold up to dogs and heavy foot traffic, but it can handle medium amounts of traffic just fine.