Retrofit Window Flashing?

10 years ago

I posted this over in windows, and just realized this might be the better place to get an answer:

I have a 14 year old house, that is almost entirely stucco. The windows are wood interiors with exterior vinyl. The walls are 2x6, so there is a decent sized vinyl sill that is sloped away from the building. Windows on the sides and back are wrapped in 6" wide cedar trim. Windows in front have stucco right up to it, with shutters on top.

I built the house, but wish I would have known then what I know now. Looking at pictures from construction, I can tell the following:

Windows were placed directly into rough openings (no wrap yet) -- with decent size nailing flanges
A head flashing was put in directly above the window (and only covers the width of the window)
For the back and sides, the cedar trim was installed next (no flashing). Another head flashing was put above the top trim, covering the width of it
Jumbo Tex paper was installed around the whole house (I believe 2 sheets of it), then wire (with weep screed). These butt up directly to the windows in front, and to the trim on the others.
Stucco was installed

Thankfully I have had no leaks inside that I can see, except for a fixed window in a two story great room where the exterior caulking between the vinyl sill and jamb mitre failed and let water drip in (became visible coming out of the top of the window below it).

What is concerning me now is that every year I am starting to find one or two pieces of the cedar trim rotting out -- always in the lower piece right below the corner of the window. I have had the entire house painted and caulked (stucco to trim, and trim to window). Yet I found one more this year.

That tells me that maybe water is still getting back there, and the lack of flashing is opening me up to more serious problems. Before painting this year, I did not notice any significant "stucco tears" at the corners, but that doesn't mean there isn't damage behind the trim. Or, it could just be the water working in at the joints on the front.

Given all that -- and I know they are not flashed, I want to find a way to flash my windows, ideally without having to replace them, or having to pull them completely (I understand that might not be possible, and end up being the final resolution).

I was thinking of doing the following, but not sure if this will actually be of any benefit at all:

Pull all the trim off a window
Remove the head flashing just above the window, and install a new one that covers the width of the window and trim combined
Install flashing tape over bottom fin first, then sides, then top
Reinstall cedar trim.

This does not solve the problem of lack of a sill pan, or having the flashing integrated into the tar paper for the stucco. But if I am already replacing a piece of trim, seems like this would be worth doing at the same time.

Thoughts?

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Comments (3)

klem1
10 years ago
First I must confess I have limited experience with stucco and I became lost very early in your explanation of construction details on the windows. What I know is that I've had good results intergrating old and new portland and lime base materials. Since you built the place you will know what's in the stucco,that is a big help. It sound's like you could chip then bed flashing into old stucco useing new material similar to origional.
aclute
Original Author
10 years ago
Don't need to chip the stucco away as the cedar trim pulled off provides room. My question is do you have to pull the window to do the job right, or does tape flashing an existing window accomplish anything?
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klem1
10 years ago
Once again,I'm not sure if i understand exactly how the windows are set. I have a feeling the best way now might be far different to the right way for new construction. Butyl or urathane sealant along with some new stucco and trim keep's coming to mind as a possibile solution. Flashing tape do'es a good job when used in combination with house wrap during construction. I'd think there would be lots of if ands & buts dependent on how much siding was removed to use tape during remodel work. Sound's goofy but understanding how cedar wood shake/shingle roofs shed water serve's well for any siding installation. Just keep in mind that starting at top of a wall,as water run's down,as it run's off one element it should run onto outside surface of the one below. Leaving joint between underside of upper element and exterior side of lower element not only alow's water to exit should it make it's way to underside,it alow's air circulation that help's dry out. IMO,a watertight head flashing is 90% of the battle. It is for that reason that I would leave origional head flash in place if it were possible to work the wider head flash under old one. I realize my comments don't answer your question but in combination with what you know and find out through other sources may be of some value in the end.