The controller typically has a "test" button or something similar. Each cycle will be brief, perhaps up to 5 minutes each.

It probably is a 2 person job to test. One to push the test button, another to "follow" the activity and record which section is irrigated by #1, #2, #3, etc.

Cell phones should help the 2 persons stay in touch. A smart phone could even take images as you go.

If no teset button, simply run each cycle by itself. Again, a 2-person task.

That's how DH and I do it. Run ea area with one person at the controls and another by the heads and exchange data by phone. We do it yearly. Lawn mower, accidental digging, age, heads sinking and not covering as desired, damaged heads, etc happen so we Ck and replace yearly to ensure it works like we need it to work. When we first installed the system, we diagrammed on graph paper the entire system. It is the best thing we ever did! Makes it much easier to monitor the entire system, to locate pipes, for re-routing, etc.

Here is pic of my system on paper, kept by the control system for reference. I went to OfficeMax and had it laminated for $1 for durability

Closeup. The x represent heads and the number is the zone. Also posted by the controls we keep a Listing of the zones in one column and the time it runs in another column. I think the control panel has that info but I like seeing it on paper. I don't know that a person with a system comprising 5 zones or less needs to be this detailed, but I would have done it anyway

Thanks. Building the diagram of the layout makes sense. As I test the zones what should I be looking for? I guess my fear is there could be a broken pipe or missing head and it would flood the ground... Do I just look for wet spots?

1) that head(s) is visible but not high enough to be hit by mower

2) if a pop-up head, that it goes up all the way when it starts watering

3) evaluate the sprinkler range. For ex. Does it rotate 180 deg when it's meant to go 360?

4). If no water comes out, look for nearby puddle or muddy soil, likely head or attached pipe is broken. If so it usually takes digging about 18" to find it,. Continue to examine until you find crack and replace the necessary length. HD has good inventory of diff kind heads. Take old one with you when shopping

5). Once replaced, test again to Ck your work

6). Is this is more than you want to undertake, there are a ton guys out there that do sprinkler repairs, consisting of what I've described above. Some may abandon broken pipes and simply reroute, for example if over time a shrub became huge and easier to reroute than to dig all that mess.

7) good practice to drain system for winter. Helps prevent cracks

I tried my system today with no luck. There isn't a test button so I just tried manually cycling it. I got nothing from any heads... Thoughts? I'm not big on hiring people for things I'm capable of. Here is a picture of the antiquated control panel in the garage.

Is the water turned on before the valves? check your water supply for a shut off and make sure that it's on. Once it's on try again. You can also look for your valves in the yard, some valves have a manual on/off control.

I think the water is on. I checked the main valve in the basement and there are two pipes coming off before the pressure reducer. One for rear spigots and one for front spigots... I'm assuming those supply the irrigation system also... Is that most likely correct? I'll check but never seen any valves in the yard. Would they splice off the main meter box or where should I look?

call the Rain Bird people. we've had great luck with their customer service and they seem to want to help those who want to DIT. Could be a solenoid valve. could be wiring that was cut when somebody was digging. could be that valve box has become buried over time, just like heads do. I think they can suggest a list that you can follow in process by elimination basis. The Rain Bird people can tell you if the test button can be reset to 1, 2, 5, 10 whatever minutes. Your model may not. In which case, you'd have to set ea zone manually. Tedious but gives you all the time to need to inspect heads, look for leads, etc.

your control panel looks different than mine but the "antiquated" aspect is meaningless and they all operate the same. areas (zones) , days of week. length of time. DIY will immerse you into what you have, where it goes, what it irrigates, but it shouldn't be beneath anyone to call "the guy" for help, just a matter of how you want to allocate time vs $