Perfect clarity on the dimensions. Everything from the size and type of wood on the doors to the type to the load bearing and extension capacities of the hardware, the look and feel of the finish, the length and scope of the guaranty and don't forget he delivery date. If your installation has to be done in stages because you're coordinating some other aspect of your kitchen build you need to spell out what cabinets go first. If you are planning to use anything in a less than common fashion it needs to be specified i.e. if you're going to have drawers in the toe kick or some unusual countertop, it needs to say so. The more exact your description the less there can be misunderstandings.

Just pretend your contract is going to be handed off to a third-party who has never seen your kitchen and never talked to you they can only go by what is on the piece of paper if that doesn't describe it well enough you're in trouble.

23. Specify any cabinet you want to have a finished bottom? Or Flush finished bottom? Good for cabinets over refrigerator or can be seen from seated table or couch. Any shorter cabinet place higher.

thank you. I just bookmarked your questions. :)

You're welcome! So many details! I'm sure there are more that I missed.

I'm working on several jobs at a time...in different stages of completion. It's a wonder I'm not raving mad. :-)

Thank you SOOOO much!

I don't think this forum has stickies but if it did, this thread should definitely be stickied. I bet hundreds of people are going to refer to your list of questions in the coming years. And hopefully it will earn you some jobs, I wouldn't think twice about hiring you if you were local.

I'm sure you probably have everything covered but if you think of anything else I hope you'll come back to share it!

Plywood has been mentioned, but people usually think of that in terms of the box. Some companies let you choose plywood and veneered shelves or solid wood.

if you're offered the choice of 1/2 or 3/4" shelves, go for the 3/4". Even in plywood they will hold up better (no bowing under weight) - particularly in larger cabinets (over 24") IMO.

TheKitchenPlace, thank you for such a comprehensive list! For the following questions, what are the "right" or at least "desirable" answers?

1. Construction: Framed or Frameless: MDF or Plywood? Thickness of sides.
7. Drawer thickness? construction? Bottom thickness? Captured
bottom? Height of drawer boxes? To fit openings or standard heights?

Thanks!!!

For framed cabinets, plywood is better but not necessary, especially if there are budget concerns. If you go with an engineered wood end panel kitchen, just upgrade your exposed ends to be wood veneer (not vinyl/fake wood grain).

If frameless, I'm fine with engineered construction.

Thickness of sides:. Minimum of 3/8", 1/2" and 5/8" plywood. Adding a finished end will increase side thickness to some cabinet lines.

For frameless: 5/8 or 3/4.

Drawer thickness: 3/4" is best but 5/8" is ok too. Dovetail wood is what most people want

Bottom thickness is typically 1/4" captive bottom. Some brands offer thicker bottom upgrades.

Drawer box heights on some brands are shorter than the drawer opening on the deeper bottom drawers. (I.e. Pot/pan drawers).

It's already been mentioned, but I want to emphasize. Think about your sink choice before ordering cabinets. There have been so many posts on this forum which say, "I really really wanted that (e.g.) Super Single sink but it needs a 36" base, and my cabinet (already ordered) will only fit a 30" sink." Or worse, people who post "what sink should I get", and when responses are "what size is your sink base cabinet?", they don't even know, and have to go ask the company they ordered the cabinets from.