You have a challenge, but it depends how far you're willing to go. First step is finding the same dimensional oak. Ask around some lumber yards and demolition businesses. Next step is taking a few samples, sanding them down and applying various mixes of stains to get a match that is close enough that you can live with it, then installing the new floor and applying the stain and finish in the correct concentration to the main body. Might be fiddly work and you may luck out and find it very easy. That's renovation for you.

The wood flooring in the picture looks to be plain red oak with clear poly . I bet if you make a sample it will be very close. good luck !

Please give us a call and we'll be glad to give you a free estimate..Thank you.

There you go...two references for Calgary Alberta....love this place! Have fun.

Thank you for your advice everyone! It's very much appreciated.

Cancork-

I am so glad to see that you have responded to the question above, as I look for your responses in these questions that I submit!!

What do you mean that you would "ignore the bevel?" I have the same problem of two drastically different colored floors that "touch." My Living room is honey oak, and I need to replace my entire kitchen and floor due to a leak from the attic. I plan to sell soon, but for now I would love to have a dark brown floor in the kitchen. The two adjoining floors will not match, but I plan to go ahead with it anyway. So for the floor, I am looking at Core-Tec vinyl (Williamson Oak) vs. Armstrong solid hardwood oak planks (Cocoa Bean).

If I get the wood, I am concerned that the new owners may want to sand the kitchen floor, but they will have difficulty getting all of the color out because of the bevel. So I am wondering if you would tell me to "ignore the bevel."

If I put in the hardwood, will it be easy to remove it in the future, as it will go under all of the cabinets?

I am considering the vinyl, as well, because it will be easier for the next homeowner to remove.

Do you have a preferred floor of the two above, or another idea for a flooring for me?

I hope you do see this, and I thank you in advance for all of your help!!!

I would not put in faux wood-look vinyl next to real hardwood. I would also choose not to put two different coloured hardwoods together. I always tell people, if you are preparing to sell, you are not renovating "your home". You are creating someone else's home. If you want dark hardwood in the kitchen, you might want to wait until you get to your next house.

I would suggest you try to either match the hardwood you have (if it has bevels that means it is factory finished = very hard to source old flooring) or to find a different material/visual for the "dark" kitchen floors. A dark brown travertine look porcelain tile would do it.

I'm a flooring snob...so I would either "not bid" on a home with multiple hardwoods like what your planning or I would offer a very low bid (at least $25K below asking) because of the flooring mismatch. I know how much it would cost to have everything redone in a single "wood" which is why I would approach a home with multiple hardwoods (or faux wood + real wood) as a "flooring redo". My offer would reflect the work I would want to do to get the floors to match.

There is a strong minority that have my approach to flooring. There are many others who wouldn't notice the flooring mismatch until after they moved in.

Becky B - though I had a different situation, I would agree with the above. I quite like the above suggestion to go for a dark travertine. Or if you can make it work to install hardwood and have everything refinished to match (I don't know enough about your situation to know if that's possible).

After much discussion, we knew that a mismatched floor would drive us crazy and we re-worked our budget to have oak put in the kitchen and have our entire home refinished. (Thank you for your suggestion, Cancork!). It was definitely the right choice - the floors are stunning and I know I would have been disappointed to have a mismatched floor.

Thanks to all of you who have responded to my question above. I am not in favor of the "luxury vinyl" look, but we have had water damage before, due to a burst pipe in the attic, and my husband is terrified that if we get wood, we will have water issues from just washing dishes (not even thinking about the fridge/dishwasher possibilities), or stains from food dropping on the floor.

Here is the situation:

My kitchen is on the second floor of the house. The floor is currently plywood, due to the above mentioned burst pipe.

Tiles are a great suggestion, and I would love to do them, but we have been told that there is not enough room for a mud floor and tiles. This is because we have a door to the deck in the kitchen, and there is only about one inch from the top of the plywood to the top of the saddle. We also only have an 8 foot ceiling.

So, I am currently considering engineered wood instead of vinyl. I have read that you need 2mm-6mm of veneer for a good quality engineered wood.

My questions are:

1) Would anyone consider putting engineered wood into a kitchen?

I have seen many articles suggesting that it is not good for a bathroom, but I'm having difficulty finding articles or questions regarding my specific concerns about water from the sink, and food stains.

2) If you would consider using engineered wood in a kitchen, does anyone have suggestions for brands to use that would have 2-6 mm thick veneers?

I would greatly appreciate any help that you can give me. This is an entirely frustrating experience, and I do need to make a decision on a floor!!

I am sorry for the length of this "question." I hope I have mentioned all of the pertinent information!

By the way, Cancork, I am hoping that you will respond again! Thanks for your time.

I'm one who believes that is someone is "afraid" of a situation, they should avoid it. If hubby is afraid of drips and drops on wood, then I HIGHLY recommend working with something else. We've seen time and time again what happens when clients are pressured into using a material they are uncomfortable with. It rarely works out well. Something about self fulfilling prophecy.

You can always look at stone-look/tile look vinyl tiles or sheet products. Cork is always an option because it doesn't care about water. But you have to be ready for everything else about cork.

Thank you, again, Cancork! I appreciate your time and thoughtfulness.

Kay-that is a very good idea, but the wall that the door is on is not large enough for a slider.

Suggestions anyone?

Back to the original statement made above by Cancork: "I would not put in faux wood-look vinyl next to real hardwood. I would also choose not to put two different coloured hardwoods together."

Keeping that in mind, the only way to put real wood next to the real hardwood is to put in a real wood honey oak floor. If I do end up going for a honey oak floor, would anyone have a suggestion for a countertop color to go with white cabinets? I would prefer quartz, but I would consider granite.

I don't really want to put in a honey oak floor, but I do agree with the advice that Cancork gave to me, and it doesn't make sense to me to stain the entire LR, DR, and hallway dark brown, so I would be better off staining just the kitchen a honey oak.

Thanks for any help that you can give me!

Becky B - how old is the flooring is the rest of the house? If you put in honey oak in the kitchen it may be very difficult to have them look the same...just a thought! We tried to "match" ours originally and it never worked out for us, thus the decision to refinish it all as cancork suggested.

In terms of countertops, I would go with a light countertop, but I love that bright & fresh look. Some people prefer more contrast, but my vote would be for a white variety!

Thank you so much, vfaywilkinson! Our floors are about 14 years old, and matching may be difficult. Good idea about the countertops with white in them. I just saw two nice granites on Houzz, One is called Polar White and the other may be called White Springs. I have to check on that one. Both of them are white and browns. I am hoping they can be neutral, because I didn't really want to bring brown into the countertop. Another nice look is a black countertop with white cabinets and a honey oak floor, but I don't think that is what I am looking for.

How would a marble look quartz, such as Silestone Lyra, go with a honey oak floor. There is no brown it it, just dark grey and white?