Are you sure that's soil? ;-) That looks like pure sugar, silicon sand. I'm not sure what's bringing your pH down.

I'm sure the St Aug and centipede are doing fine in it. Centipede is famous for thriving in poor soil with poor treatment. If you ignore proper care and mow at the mower's lowest setting, the centipede will likely take over. If you improve the soil as morpheus will undoubtedly help you with, and you fertilize and water, and mow at the mower's highest setting, the St Aug will take over.

I can tell you now he's going to jump on that OM value and urge you to mulch mow always and to use Milorganite as frequently as your lawn budget can take.

Will pine trees bring PH down? The area with centipede has been progressively getting worse over the last 20+ years to the point where there is as much bare soil as there is grass.

I laid the SA sod back in Nov. 2015 with the hopes of letting it completely take over. It grows good in some places but not so much in others. I have only a few runners thus far.

What is the texture of your soil? Is it sand or is it much finer?

I would say sand.

To get you started, you should call around to local feed and seed, garden centers, farm coops (that sell to the public), and big box stores and see what is available to you. It will be useful. Look for SOP (potassium sulfate 0-0-50), Starter fertilizers (record what is available as far as NPK-- x?-x?-x?), Triple NPK ( e.g. 10-10-10, 12-12-12, 19-19-19), Calcitic lime, and dolomitic lime.

I would urge organics rather that synthetics on such poor soil. The grass will benefit much more from a proper soil composition than a few pounds of granules that boost growth temporarily. Correct the chemical issues with chemicals, but fertilize with mother nature.

I would prefer organics.

With your soil's current OM, plenty of organics will be in your future, but to correct the deficiencies (a number of the nutrients are very low-below minimum sufficiency levels) you're going to need to use "synthetics". Your soil texture and current CEC may necessitate a continuing need to supplement with synthetics.

It's Thursday so morph often makes an appearance.

Have you had a chance to check on any of those products yet? It will aid in making recommendations.

I looked at one of the big box stores and did not find any potassium sulfate or triple NPK. They did have lime but it did not specify Calcitic lime or dolomitic lime. They do have Milorganite and starter 18-24-6, 24-25-4, 18-24-6 and 20-27-5.

I encourage you to google for:

1. A feed and seed store near you.

They often cater to gentlemen farmers (gardens 1/4 to 2 acre types) and many times carry 50# bags of a variety of amendments like the SOP, 46-0-0 urea, triple NPK, Ag limes, and a range of starter fertilizers at a low cost.

or

2. A farm Co-op near you.

They cater to true farmers and buy in bulk. and carry a wide range of products like the feed and seed stores. Some sell to the public, some don't, but their prices are usually low.

or

3. A garden center.

This is more of a crap shoot, but still better than the big box stores. Some will carry SOP and lime, but often in small bags and pricey as they cater to the small gardener. However, they can often order 50# bags of product if they don't have it in stock.

I'm almost certain morph will recommend SOP (0-0-50) unless, just maybe, he may consider using a triple NPK if you have access.

If you can't find the SOP, you're going to need to find it online and pay shipping :(

I found some 10-10-10, 13-13-13, and 0-0-60 potash.

Good on the triple. It adds some options.

0-0-60 potash. That's MOP (Muriate of potassium, potassium chloride), you want to find SOP (sulfate of potassium, potassium sulfate 0-0-50). SOP is preferable as SOP has a much lower salt index and no chloride.

How many square feet of lawn do you have and what fertilizing have you done so far?

NM, I see you're taken care of.

Good luck.

A BIG Thanks to the both of you for the help!

800 sq. ft. of St. Augustine and 2200 sq. ft. of centipede. I spread corn meal on 12-10-15, 1-27-16 and 3-30-16 at 20 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. I spread rabbit chow on 3-10-16 at 20 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft.

And interspersed with morph's schedule you can add organic fertilizer any time you want to. Use whatever you like among these: Milorganite, soybean meal, alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow) or meal, corn meal, or corn gluten meal. One or more of these is going to be available at your local feed stores. App rate is 15 pounds per 1,000 square feet. You can use any of these along with the apps that morph recommended. You can use them every week or every month at that app rate - whatever your time and cash budget will allow.

Hey Morpheuspa, Is this lime okay?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_60891-692-341400070___?productId=3058417&pl=1&Ntt=lime+fertilizer

I think that would be fine for the dolomitic, although I can't find a magnesium percentage offhand.

I spread the starter fertilizer 18-24-6 at bag rate of 3.3 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. on Saturday. It didn't seem like very much!

It doesn't, does it! I'm used to organics (hurl it around in great clouds of material). When dropping synthetic, I always wonder how that could possibly work... :-)

Target for that starter of 3.3 is fine...I might be inclined to apply it at 4 pounds per thousand, but it doesn't really matter.

The grass has already started turning a bit greener. With the temps in the mid 90's it doesn't take but a few days for it start needing more water.

The N and soluble P will hit pretty fast and give the grasses a chance at the P before it soil binds (quite quickly). One example I saw started to green in hours after irrigation, but that was less "deficient on P" than "a P-free soil."

'Round here, we went from spring to midsummer so fast that the grass shocked. I didn't water (there's no point when that happens), so I actually have a few small sections that shocked straight into light dormancy. They'll be back as May/June rainfall is a bit low but still near normal at this point.

Looking at the longest range forecast, I can't predict what will happen as they keep changing it. So far, "very hot and slightly dry" seems to be the order of the day.