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ADENIUM: OVERWINTERING ADVICE....PLEASE.

Here in New York City, the summer season is just starting. However, the onset of cooler nighttime temps will begin at the end of September. Yes, a very short growing season for fat plants, but, it is what it is.


I recently braided ten, dormant, 18"-24" seedling-Adeniums into a "tower" style plant. The ten caudices - (each measuring about 2"- 3" in diameter) - are now all grouped together, and planted, forming a massive, buttressed, base measuring about 12" across the bottom of the tower, at the soil line. The stems, rising from this base section, are all twisted, braided, and intertwined, forming what can be called the "trunk section". I'm hoping, in the coming years, that the stems, and caudices will grow fatter and fatter, eventually interlocking and fusing together. Right now, the plant looks like a tortured mess. It's lumpy, bumpy, has many negative spaces, and only some bare, leafless branches...but as the plant ages, it should start to look like a fat, Baobab tree. The original, ten stems will be wired, and trained into spreading, branches growing from the top-end of the trunk, forming a "broom" style outline. Eventually, I plan to graft the all these top end branches with a variety having nice, small-flowering, single blossoms. It will take quite a few years for this plant to develop into something, but you gotta start somewhere.


I have a problem.

How do I overwinter this plant? Right now, the "tower" is being trained and grown in a 25-gallon container (half-Whiskey barrel), and it is very heavy. I cannot lift and bring this barrel into the house. As the cooler temps hit NYC, the plant will begin to go dormant. After the plant is fully dormant, can I then unpot/uproot the plant and store it in a warm, sunny, kitchen with the roots and caudices placed into a plastic bag filled with barely damp, milled, peat moss/coconut coir/shredded paper? I want to continue to keep the plant slightly hydrated, even while dormant, preventing the caudices and stems from getting spongy and soft. My goal is to keep the plant alive and thriving over the coming years so that the "tower" continues to develop and evolve. Lengthy and destructive set backs, will not get this plant to my anticipated outcome. A correct, overwintering routine, will be key.

BTW, I grow some other fat plants, and for years, have overwintered all of them successfully. I store them warm, bright, and, dry. After dormancy, I withhold all watering, and then take my cues from the plants. They usually break dormancy and start breaking bud, around April....when the Magnolias start flowering. I gradually give them some water, and when the nighttime temperatures are warm enough, all the fatties go outside, and grow on my sunny, broiling, back deck. Bursera, Operculicarya, and Cyphostemma, like the full sun and the heat. I grow them hard, but water occasionally if we get a dry spell. I try to shade the containers as much as possible. Roots can easily cook when containers overheat. I say a few prayers and keep my fingers crossed each season. Nature cannot be tamed, and will always trump man's best efforts. So far, my plants have stayed alive....so far. But who knows, crap happens!

Please suggest some cultural strategies, and options for overwintering Adeniums.

Many thanks.

Frank





Comments (15)

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Frank, we already did?: ;-) http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/1652364/designer-adenium?n=34

    If you want to prevent your braided seedlings from shrivelling and shedding all leaves keep them warm 24 hours a day in a sunny spot. Try using a heating mat to achieve this.

    But there are no guarantees here. If they go dormant (and shed all leaves), do not water at all or keep them in a moist environment. Watering dormant/inactive (leafless) plants will lead to rot. The water uptake is almost zero.

    It is important to understand the difference between dormancy and active growth. Even dormant adeniums can retain some leaves but they do not put out new growth (leaves) and watering should be reduced drastically. Leafless dormant adeniums should not be watered at all.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Martin thanks for the interest, and the link.

    Frank


    ********************************************************************************************************

    Martin......Totally forgot that I asked the same questions. Sorry for the repeat performance. Thanks for the interest and patience.


    Frank

  • 10 years ago

    Martin is right and they should overwinter fine. Though I would not put in a plastic bag as it might sweat. That may cause rot. I know a few have overwintered bare root because of space. That is not my thing though. I just leave them in the same pot. Let your plant dry out for winter it will also make it lighter to move.

    some of my bigger trees I put on a blanket and pull it through the house. More leverage.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Marica-

    Thanks for the advice. Maybe I am worried about nothing. If my other fat plants are surviving, I guess the Adeniums will also do just fine. Although I am still considering using a simple light set-up and heat mat....just for the Adeniums.

    Frank

  • 10 years ago

    I don't want to pay for the extra power usage. So mine can go dormant, My house is heated even my storage area doesn't get below 50. They are so hardy. For better caudex or root growth the heat and light would help for those months. You can see how fast other's tree get wide caudex's faster using light. LED's are cheaper run. I have small tree's so they could sit on my DVR which is on all the time. That is where I start my seeds. But as I said Dormant is fine with me.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Frank,

    We're in the same zone along the same coastline so my information may
    be of use to you. First let me break down what your conditions are and
    what you want to happen in winter, to wit:

    1. Your plant is in the midst of being trained into some shape or the other.

    2. It is in a big pot that you can not move inside when winter sets in.

    3. You and the plant are in NYC.

    First,
    remember that unlike your typical bursera and other temperate trees
    that evolved in areas with four seasons, adeniums will not survive
    outside in winter, or sometimes not even spring and autumn. They start
    slowing down when night temperatures drop to 16C and will start dying
    when night temps drop below 10C. The stronger of these plants may linger
    until first frost but all will certainly drop dead after that.

    Adeniums also do not go truly dormant the way deciduous trees do in
    winter. They just slow way down to barely awake. Even leafless, you can
    see growth nubs developing and then failing. This means you can wake
    them up easily but it also means you do not have that true dormancy to
    take advantage of when you can put them in an unheated garage or a box
    outdoors somewhere.

    Having
    said that, adeniums do survive out of the pot for a really long time. I
    have done this to both seedlings, yearlings and adults. Their
    subsequent survival depends on the rate at which you reintroduce them to
    being repotted. In their desiccated state, especially if you kept them
    somewhere cold and dark (basement closet, in my case), you can't just plop them back into the pot,
    water them and put them outside. I had to wait for spring to put them
    back in the pot, measure their water in tablespoons, then introduce them
    to heat and ever so slowly, to light. The plants that I did not put
    through this careful process either died or took all summer before ever
    growing back leaves. By the time they developed a full head of leaves,
    it was also nearing the time for them to go back inside. So I stopped overwintering them out of the pot because the trouble the process demands in order to jumpstart
    growth and succeed is way more than I was willing to tolerate.

    Moreover,
    the plants you are planning to overwinter out of the pot are very
    stressed plants already--i.e. adjusting to being braided, twisted and
    what-not. If you add more stress to that by taking them out of the pot,
    you increase the risk of them not surviving.

    If I were in your
    place, I will move them right now to a smaller, more manageable pot that
    I can then move indoors in winter. One less thing to worry about. Also
    this way, they only need recover from a light winter sleep, with their
    roots intact in the pot, instead of having to recover from exposure,
    then readjusting to being back in the pot while also dealing with being
    braided, twisted, stretched, etc.

    Pagan

  • 10 years ago

    Frank, this does sound like an exciting project you have going on in NYC.....any chance we can see a pic? I have an idea in my minds eye from your description, but I would like to learn if the real thing looks anything like what I can 'see'.

    Gill UK

  • 10 years ago

    Many, many thanks for the input and for offering opinions regarding my project.


    Fake/Pagan- Very happy I asked my questions to forum members. Your reply made me realize that I did not think things through. I was too anxious to get my braided "tree" going....because of my short growing season...and I should have given more consideration to how I was going to store my plant(s) for the long NYC winter. You also schooled me...I thought I could treat my Adeniums like my other fat plants. Now I know differently. Thanks. You may have helped me avoid a major disaster. So now, the braided Adeniums will go into a smaller pot, and I will bring the plant(s) into my warm kitchen for a less stressful, winter vacation. I'll sit the pot right near my glass patio doors where they can get full sun, or, I might just stick them in a light set-up.

    ********************************************************************************************************


    Gill in the UK...Over the years you have always offered me your help and suggestions. Thanks. I would love to post some photos of my plants and experiments, but....and, I'm embarrassed to admit this....I haven't a clue how to take digital pictures and get them all posted. I know next to nothing about using PCs and my mind just shuts down when someone tries to explain the process. I promise I will try to enlist the aid of a more competent friend. I feel like a old dinosaur in this high-tech, cyber world.


    ****************************************************************************************


    Many thanks for all the interesting advice


    Frank

  • 10 years ago

    Pagan, I agree but I can assure you that arabicums (grown in my geographical region) will not be forced into growing again after going dormant. ;-) Stem elongation and leaves, that is. Supposedly, arabicums have a built-in dormancy which cannot be changed by cultural means. They might retain some leaves but they will stop growth at some point.

    I am more convinced that this is true - and for somalenses, too. Some of my seedlings under LED light are shutting more or less down, even shedding leaves. They want to go dormant. ;-)

  • 10 years ago

    It is possible to use a 2'x2' piece of plywood on a hand dolly to bring the barrel in?

  • 10 years ago

    Hm. Interesting, Martin. I'll try that next winter. Thus far, I have only seen one of my arabicums go dormant and that's because I shoved it somewhere in the unlit part of my plant shelf in the basement. The ones I had upstairs have been awake through several winters and probably suffering from plantsomnia by now.

    In any case, if I'm remembering Frank's previous posts correctly, I think he's working with obesums.

    I'd like to see photos too, Frank.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Thumbs up. And somehow I forgot all about the part about the 25 gallon barrel! Which made things a little more complicated... ;-)

  • 10 years ago

    Frank 25 gal pots you can do it I move 22 plumeria in 25 gal pots ever year to the greenhouse and I'm over 70 years old

    Roger

  • 10 years ago

    : ))))

    God bless you, Roger. More power to ya. Your plants are now....braided, planted, and sprouting. Can't wait for the flower show to begin.

    Yes, my revamped barrel is much lighter now, and it can easily be moved and lifted. Not afraid of doing hard work, but I have a bad back, so lifting heavy objects is always a concern. So are hernias.


    Thanks for the plants, and for the good wishes...and, I will do it.

    Frank