Depends. What is the soil like now? What does that soil need to be a good healthy soil? How much does the soil need? Those questions can only be answered by you after you take a good in depth look at that soil. Start with these simple soil tests but also have a good reliable soil test done for soil pH and major nutrient levels.

1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

kimmq is kimmsr

In the absence of any other information about the soil or what you plan on growing, compost is typically both beneficial and can't do any harm.

I am not sure what "fresh soil" means - if you think you need to raise the level permanently, you will have to add some mineral soil. Otherwise amending the existing soil with organic matter (compost) is all you should need.

If you've never grown anything here or you have tried and it did not do well, you might consider a soil test as kimmsr recommends.

Seems hard to have too much compost doing any measurable gardening or landscaping. Pile up as much organic matter as possible. Bagged leaves and used coffee grounds are two overlooked resources with tremendous worminess.

Like toxcrusadr I have never encountered the term "fresh soil" before. Can you tell us a little more about what your thinking is behind that?

Also like Springtime Builders I am a BIG fan of shredded leaves and Starbucks coffee grounds (as are the earthworms), It makes a great winter and summer mulch that is compost by the time next season rolls around.

Also, as you prep your beds there is a lot to be said for disturbing the soil is little as possible. If you have added compost in past years, then there is sure to be a whole biological community working for you already in the soil. My personal approach is to add amendments (compost, fertilize) on top and then just work it in a inch or two.

Soils can have too much organic matter, bogs are one example. A good healthy soil will have about 6 to 8 percent organic matter in the mix and that takes a lot of organic material to get there. However, the gardener should take a good look at the soil to determine what it needs before throwing some "stuff" at that soil.

kimmq is kimmsr