I would definitely trim it at this time of year. I would remove the very bottom limb and trim back any other branches that do not fit in with the shape you're trying to achieve. You don't have to be afraid of cutting back a jade. They are quite robust and will soon recover and show new growth. Make sure you give it as much sun as you can to prevent the etiolated growth and only water when dry.

It was burning alittle bit so I pushed it back, it's gets sun until about 1pm now.

I just repotted, half perlite/half miracle grow cacti soil. The lady I bought it from used MiracleGrow Moisture control but I found it to be too moist

Your soil mixture sounds ok and it's good that you're acclimating the jade to higher light levels. You may also want to take a look at the plant and decide what shape you'd like to achieve. Like I said pruning back a jade won't hurt it.

Do you want thick trunk so your jade tree 'looks old'?

If yes, do not trim off any branches, perhaps just shorten them up. More food - more growth, and more food is made if there are more leaves.

Over all, the jade branches are etiolated (same here, they need to be indoors during winter), so you should prune off all that etiolated growth. Outdoors, everything new will grow much more compact before you have to take it in again.

But of course, you can prune now as your hart desires :) it is good time to do it.

Did you acclimatize plant to full sun? Jades will grow, get darker color with sun if you like it. Some will show more red on edges of the leaves too.

Yes, I do want thicker trunk. So I should prune most of the branches back alittle to encourage more leaves?

That's what I would do if it was my plant. Pruning the stretched growth and getting new leaves to grow.

Here is something Al (tapla) posted about thickening the trunk:

tapla

Think
of your trunk as a river and each branch as a stream, and each leaf as a
brook, all tributaries of the river. Removing streams/brooks
(branches/leaves) causes the river to flow (thicken) at a reduced rate.

Plants can grow multiplicatively (more branches and leaves) or
additively (thicker). Both types of growth occur in meristematic
regions; extension and new meristems from apical meristems at branch
tips and thickening from the lateral meristems in cambial tissues. Both
elongation and thickening of axes is directly related to the number of
cell divisions that occur. As cells divide, new cells are laid down in
files and are causal of thickening. Since the number of new cells formed
IS what determines the amount of thickening, and the number of new
cells formed is directly related to food (photosynthate) production, we
can say with certainty that there exists a direct relationship between
the amount of thickening in the longitudinal axes and the area of the
photosynthesizing surface (the number/size of leaves on the plant). From
this we see that by removing branches that support viable foliage
and/or removal of individual leaves, we reduce axial thickening in
direct relation to the photosynthesizing surface area removed.

So, as Rina and Rooftop suggested, removing leaves and branches can
only have the direct effect of diminishing the rate of thickening in the
longitudinal axes.

Another post from Al:

Hi, Andrey.

When we remove branches we remove leaves, thereby reducing the
plant's photosynthesizing surface and it's ability to create food from
the sun's energy. Less food means fewer cell divisions, so not as many
cells laid down in the cambium where thickening occurs. So, no question,
removing foliage retards thickening of the trunk and branches.

If you want more side branches, removing the plants apices (growing
branch tips/ apical meristems) removes most of the source of auxin, the
growth regulator responsible for suppressing lateral breaks (side
branches). This allows cytokinin, the growth regulator that stimulates
lateral breaks to become dominant, which stimulates axillary and
adventitious buds to grow - so more branching.

Also, maximizing light while ensuring good air movement and appropriate fertility causes more secondary growth.

Al

Here is whole thread those 2 post are in: -click here-

Perhaps you may find interesting reading whole thread, few other questions are answered.

Thank you Rina! I think I get it. So I should prune back those branches that are sparsely covered. So cutting off the leaves on the ends will encourage branches and leaves on the stretched out part?

Also, I've never fertilized my succulents, should I do that? And how often! Thanks

Tip pruning will encourage branching and new leaves. The reason to prune them off after the winter is to get rid of that stretched growth which will not revert even if plant is exposed to much more light. Only new growth will be compact. That way you'll avoid having the both happening. Stretched branches are also too long and may be quite weak so they could droop down. Branches that are too long and have leaves far apart also do not look as nice as if they are full. You don't want to remove all the leaves, just prune off some. Few of the branches on your plant are quite long and thin - if you prune most of it, you will slow down thickening somehow, but not stop it completely. Al explains it much better than I ever could :)

I would consider pruning something like I marked above; this is only an example, and I am not able to see plant as it really is, and I am certainly not an expert...Most of the above cuts are taking all of the leaves off (nothing really wrong but it will not encourage thickening much right now), but I believe that they should be done now otherwise the branches will become very long.

What is also important is how you want your tree look like. You may want to prune more or less than I would (likely less :) - I usually chop them quite a bit).

I hope I didn't confuse you. If yes, please just say so.

As for fertilizing - I never fertilized mine either. BUT, fertilizing
is recommended especially if they grow in very inorganic mix (as mine
do). So I need to improve there...:)

Kevin (ewwmayo) does
fertilize his succulents and they are beautiful. But he also has very
good lighting system so his plants don't get etiolated as mine do. Here
is one of the threads he posted with some graphs/measurements he has
taken:-click here-

Wow! I'm sold on fertilizing now! See I always thought fertilizing caused leggy growth, I guess that's true only in inadequate light.

Do you have a recommendation for a fertilizer?

Yes about etiolation. Fertilizer most recommended is DynaGro FoliagePro 9-6-3. It isn't readily available in Canada, so I use MiracleGro 12-4-8 or 24-8-16.

More about fertilizers in another post by Al (tapla) -here-