oh sorry did not realized that. Corrected

Pictures of the interior would be helpful, but it seems that they didn’t use jamb extensions, which would have put the exterior of the new windows in roughly the same position as before.

I have added few more pictures to same folder.

Pictures

I can not stick ruler along whole window, but I was able to inset it in 3 places. I am very concern how to insulate windows properly for next 20 years. I am afraid that opening is too large to make any long-run seals and if not noticed break in sealing would cause damage from weather.

Is there possibility to move window to proper position at this stage?

would opening impact house insulation /gas consumption in winter time?

inside we do not have silicone above or at the bottom on the window, only on sides (I am not sure if it should be like this).

thanks

If installation was done incorrectly, can window be uninstalled and placed back properly? In our case no outside work is done yet.

I don't see any glaring issues as of right now. The cut back measurement from the brick is within what most would call acceptable limits and they have to take into account these variances in the brick size openings on the exterior. As long as the sill of the window is terminating on the brick sill, the window should be fine from a drainage standpoint. I did see some mortar tuck pointing that needs to be done as well. The gap that is there should allow for some foam to be injected to air seal the openings to the home prior to the finish capping and caulking. The openings would, as a part of a normal protocol, be straightened up for level and square prior to the capping application.

I’m still not seeing any interior photos. I disagree with WoW a bit on this one. It looks like there are places where the window is behind the back edge of the brick (photos 12 & 22), and while it can be sealed, it really shouldn’t be that way. The windows should at least be set far enough out to allow for sealing to the flat edge of the brick. Jamb extensions could have helped in this regard.

While aesthetically it is nice to have the new windows cover the old caulk line, there’s nothing “wrong” about having the windows set back a bit provided they can be properly sealed.

I do agree that the gaps between the window and brick (photo 1) are within reason to allow for spray foam and sealing. While aesthetically it is nice to have the new windows cover the old caulk line, there’s nothing “wrong” about having the windows set back a bit provided they can be properly sealed.

Totally okay with that assessment. You can push into the screen track on some units in my opinion as long as the sill is draining on the brick sill. There is water moving behind that brick wall as a brick veneer, but you do want to keep it to a minimum.

thank you.

there is one interior photo at the bottom. If you need some close up - please let me know

Windows on Washington Ltd: there is no capping to be installed. This should be brink to brick and and brick mold installation.

if it is brick to brick, how job should be finished?

Photo # 20 (second from the left at the bottom). The window does not have wooden piece which all other windows have. it basically located right on concrete. I am not sure this is correct installation.

Can this installation be corrected to proper degree (push windows towards outside) without ordering new windows?

I agree, I am not comfortable with brick not aligning with windows and larger openings while no capping will be applied.

thanks!

PRO

Ultra Windows: I have read your comment one more time. Proper sealing is exactly my concern.

I am afraid that all opening would be sealed, there is no capping and over time seal would not hold and be cracked, leaving house prone to damage.

we had 9 windows installed. 5 appeared to be fine and openings between window and brick are quite smaller/ they also have interior sills 8.5 cm.

Windows which I am concern about have sills 7 cm which makes me thing that they were "pushed " 1.5 cm closer inside house leaving larger openings . Another theory is that windows were ordered too small and had to be "pushed" inside house in order for them to be installed.

in any case all the windows with interior sills 8.5 cm are installed much more snag then those with 7 cm sills.

We have some rain and job is not finished . Am I in danger to get water damage to the house?

thanks for all your help

Ok, didn’t catch it the first time. It’s enough to show that you have wood returns and not sheetrock. Therefore, I still think they should have used jamb extensions to push the new windows further to the exterior. With brick exteriors, it may have necessitated a stop from the existing jamb to the new jamb, however.

As WoW said, there’s a drainage plane behind the brick that is designed to allow water that penetrates the brick to escape out the weep holes. I just prefer to minimize it as much as possible.

The existing windows can be pulled and reset without any damage to the windows, but whether or not the contractor is willing to do this (terms of the contract) is the question. If they have to add jamb extensions, and it wasn’t in the original contract, be prepared for additional costs.

I wouldn’t be too concerned with potential damage to the house. As with any installation that we’re second guessing, there may be factors the contractor had to deal with that we don’t know.

Do you have the city building inspector look at it? Next step is have an residential licensed architect to look at it too.. The architect is not only a designer but is also an engineer.

Great info from Ultra and WoW.

I would also recommend a first person assessment of the installation by someone qualified. You could contact a trade organization in your area like NARI to find an appropriate party. I generally recommend AGAINST simply calling another window contractor to inspect for the obvious conflict of interest. An architect would not be advisable either. I have tremendous respect for architects and everything that they do, however, field application on a renovation project is not in their wheelhouse anymore than it would be for a window contractor to produce a schematic for wind bracing... The local building inspector would not be the worst choice, however those guys aren't always up to date on the latest, best practices either as they have a pretty broad scope of things to keep up on.

An architect? What is the architect doing to tell this person about water management and drainage plane detailing?

Can see the local building inspector now, "yep that's a window"...................

I am in Canada. I called city yesterday, did not find answer yet, will try again . Thank you, now I know to whom to ask for.

from the pictures, can windows be properly sealed without capping? It is my understanding, that capping technology allows bigger openings since there will be capping to cover it:)

I have larger openings and no capping intended.