Not bad. Bradenton even has its own soil named for it. Loamy fine sand, poorly draining, but moderately permeable.

The only real pimple is potassium, but it's in the middle of the forehead and morpheuspa is going to want to bump this and may want to suggest a few tweaks.

Start looking for a source of potassium sulfate 0-0-50.

FMI, would you mind describing the texture and characteristics of your soil?

Good luck.

thanks yardtractor, yes, our soil where i live is Myakka, here is what USDA has to say about it. its the uderlying soil, but i live in a subdivision that was built on old farm land, so 2-3 feet of structural fill is on top:

30—Myakka-Myakka, wet, fine sands, 0 to 2 percent slopes

Map Unit Setting

• National map unit symbol: 2twt7
• Elevation: 10 to 130 feet
• Mean annual precipitation: 50 to 60 inches
• Mean annual air temperature: 70 to 73 degrees F
• Frost-free period: 310 to 365 days
• Farmland classification: Farmland of unique importance

Map Unit Composition

• Myakka and similar soils: 75 percent
• Myakka, wet, and similar soils: 15 percent
• Minor components: 10 percent

• Estimates are based on observations, descriptions, and transects of the mapunit.

Description of Myakka

Setting

• Landform: Flatwoods on marine terraces
• Landform position (three-dimensional): Tread, talf
• Down-slope shape: Convex
• Across-slope shape: Linear
• Parent material: Sandy marine deposits

Typical profile

• A - 0 to 6 inches: fine sand
• E - 6 to 20 inches: fine sand
• Bh - 20 to 36 inches: fine sand
• C - 36 to 80 inches: fine sand

Properties and qualities

• Slope: 0 to 2 percent
• Depth to restrictive feature: More than 80 inches
• Natural drainage class: Poorly drained
• Runoff class: High
• Capacity of the most limiting layer to transmit water (Ksat):Moderately high to high (0.57 to 5.95 in/hr)
• Depth to water table: About 6 to 18 inches
• Frequency of flooding: None
• Frequency of ponding: None
• Salinity, maximum in profile: Nonsaline to very slightly saline (0.0 to 2.0 mmhos/cm)
• Sodium adsorption ratio, maximum in profile: 4.0
• Available water storage in profile: Low (about 3.9 inches)

Interpretive groups

• Land capability classification (irrigated): None specified
• Land capability classification (nonirrigated): 4w
• Hydrologic Soil Group: A/D
• Other vegetative classification: South Florida Flatwoods (R155XY003FL), Sandy soils on flats of mesic or hydric lowlands (G155XB141FL)

I was more interested in your personal observations, particularly in light of the fill on top.

sorry yard. its a dark grey/brown soil, pretty fine texture.

Thanks.

Is it easy to dig? does it puddle in a rainfall or does it drain pretty quickly?

yes, easy to dig. it puddles, but just because the water table is maybe a foot deep and it gets saturated pretty quickly. in dryer season when water table is around 2 feet deep, it doesnt puddle. that said, i was considering treating with shampoo.

thank you so much morpheus! when i saw the results i thought they looked pretty decent, and based on your response it sounds like it. you mention my pH is a tad on the high side when discussing the iron. should i think about lowering the pH to get better color? on the potassium, i will get started on that right away, will i see improvement with my growth of the lawn when i get that back into range? i guess im asking, is how does low potassium affect the health of the turf? i know all the minerals, etc interact, etc.

is sulfate of potash the same as potassium sulfate?

yes, easy to dig. it puddles, but just because the water table is maybe
a foot deep and it gets saturated pretty quickly. in dryer season when
water table is around 2 feet deep, it doesnt puddle. that said, i was
considering treating with shampoo.

IMO: I wouldn't shampoo. It's a sandy soil and high water table and your climate evaporates water pretty quickly. You don't want to promote the water draining any faster through it and you can't get more than a gallon of water into a gallon bottle.

Edit:

is sulfate of potash the same as potassium sulfate?

Yes

Yep, sulfate of potash and potassium sulfate are the same thing...just wildly different names due to historic reasons. Fortunately, you don't have to deal with any of the really old names for things that have since gone by the wayside!

I'd ignore your pH. Attempts to lower it are relatively ineffective unless you can dig the whole thing up (and even then, it can be so-so). Plus, your pH of 6.8 isn't high, exactly, it's just on the high side of normal. It's still perfectly acceptable.

I overshot (easy to do when trying to go from 4.5 to 6.5) and landed at 7.2. My lawn looked great while that lasted and it caused no noticeable problems...just a touch paler than it should have been. Nobody but me would ever notice that.

thanks morpheus, i just picked up a 50lb bag from a nearby garden store. they had to order it for me, but it was $47 for the bag, which seemed like a good price.. one more question - you recommended 3 applications this year....would you expect that to be the last applications needed (i.e. 3 total)? retest next year and confirm?