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Paint remover for vertical surfaces

10 years ago

I have a near 60 year old home with built in cabinets, built in bookshelves, and baseboard molding that has 6 decades of paint on them that needs cleaned off. I can and will remove the doors on the kitchen cabinets and the drawers and shelves, but everything else - baseboard, trim, cabinet boxes, etc., needs to be stripped in place.

What paint strippers can work for vertical wood surfaces that can't be removed? Something non-drippy, maybe a gel or one of those systems where you slap the paper on and peel the whole thing away?

I've been hunting turpentine in gallons. I am CLEARLY not up to date on these matters, LOL!

Comments (8)

  • 10 years ago

    Thanks. I'm hoping for a few more options but one is better than none. Others insist it is impossible to do.

    How about the stuff that you layer on and then cover with special paper, then peel that all off? I've seen it used to take the paint off brick - surely it can do the same for baseboard and vertical wood surfaces such as cabinets and bookshelves?

  • 10 years ago

    I haven't tried any paper-and-peel type stuff. But I think regardless you're in for a bit of scraping around the corners - it's not the most fun I've ever had but I wouldn't call it impossible.

  • 10 years ago

    I've had good luck with Citristrip. Apply it more like frosting than paint, and cover with plastic so it stays wet. Then wait 24 hours before removal. It will bubble, and you can scrape it off.

    That may layers may require a second application.

  • 10 years ago

    We stripped a lot of woodwork in our house using a Speed Heater for flat surfaces and a heat gun (for tight spaces and corners). I like Citristrip for stripping any remaining paint bits. Speed Heater is very expensive (around $400) but it has fully paid off because we used it to strip every painted surface on the exterior and now interior of the house. Heat gun is a lot cheaper and is very handy for removing paint quickly but you have to be careful with not letting it burn the wood. There are ways to do it by moving it constantly or reducing the temperature settings. Also, always wear protective mask when dealing with lead paint. Good luck.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    OK I started with the Citristrip and it seems to be working pretty well. However the directions say to use a plastic stripper - can I not use metal tools with this? They also say to pour it into a metal paint can when applying so I'm not sure what's up with that.

    It also doesn't really say what to use to clean the brush. I tried denatured alcohol and it did clean up the Citristrip but it left a lot of globs of latex paint that apparently came off while applying the citristrip and crawled up into the brush. Like paint lint. I don't think washing the brush will get all that crap out - maybe it doesn't matter? Its not like this is painting where you don't want to leave blobs in the paint.

  • 4 years ago

    I know this is much later but just in case others come across this like I did! CitriStrip has worked best for me as long as I let it sit for 5+ hours. You use plastic tools to avoid gouging the wood when scraping and use the cheapest brush to slather it on and then throw out. Also any container can work to pour it in to!


    I am trying to find a solution currently for fine details the scraper cant get in to. First I am trying a striff bristle brush and then plastic picks if needed

  • 4 years ago

    I used CitriStrip on a maple cabinet door and within 10 minutes it developed dark splotches on the wood that wouldn't scrap off. I quickly removed the stripper and scrubbed the dark spots and was able to get the majority of the dark splotch off. After doing more online research I discovered a lot of furniture refinishers are claiming the formula has changed and they no longer use Citristrip. Apparently it doesn't flow on as easily as it used to and they find it is causing dark spots on the wood. So, my advice would be to 'use with caution'.


    Fortunately, I was able to find a local furniture stripper (he uses the large vats) and I'll be taking all the cabinet doors & drawer fronts to him. They'll be ready for finishing for less than $200.