Opinions Are Great but I lean
toward Proven Experiences if time allows or Proven Experiences of others if I
have a feel for their experience “Versus Talk”.

Such As:

1. I purchased 1970 35HP
   Chrysler Outboard in 1984 (stored in a
   Warehouse and spotless). The previous owner
   spent approx an hr telling and shoeing me how to care for the Motor and handle
   the boat. His recommendation was to run
   the boat dry each time I left the lake (not knowing when I would go out again). After 3-4 trips 1-2 weeks apart I realize I
   was wasting too much gas. Plus, I ran the boat Bone Dry after each summer of
   fishing (to store). I learned about
   StaBil1-2 years later and treated my gas for a year. I have not run the engine dry when leaving
   the lake since or after the summer of fishing.
   It has never failed on the one year StaBil treated fuel. One exception was 03-06 droughts not knowing
   how long it would last, I ran the engine Bone dry for storage.

2. From approx 1975 – 2014 multiple
   Two Cycle Mixes Wore Me and Containers Down.
   I have gone to a Premium (Synthetic) 50:1 in all of my old equipment that
   were rated a t 8:1, 16:1, 25:1, 32:1, and 50:1.
   So far “All Is Fine” Trying to start all for a few minutes yearly has
   pushed me to using and respecting Electric Chain Saws.

Reading and respecting the Language of others has saved me
some experimenting. Plus the age and
method of acquiring half of my gas equipment allows my changes and experiment w/o
feeling the pain of a possible loss.
Half was donated to me and I serviced donated over half and need to
donate more.

Too Much To Spell CK. LOL!!!

I have been following the general idea presented by loger, but being a little more conservative, I generally mix 40 to 1. I add stabil (or whatever) when I get my gas and it gets stored for a year or more at times. I did run into an issue with gas stored in my chipper for an indeterminate time. It got tons of water in it (wouldn't start, duh) and I didn't spot it and neither did the first tech who looked at it.

However, regarding measuring, I can certainly suggest a better method although if you stay well below 50 to 1 I doubt that it is that critical. I measure the oil in either a graduated cylinder (yes, I was a chemist) or a small measuring container with multi marks on it. I have a 4 oz glass with all teaspoon, tablespoon, oz and ml markings. I make one measure (which improves on the multiple minor errors in the individual tablespoons) and do as you do by rinsing gas thru it a couple times to be sure all is removed. I also happen to have a huge liter and 2 liter graduated cylinder as well, but your marks are probably ok.

I have paper measuring cups
similar to the ones at the address below.
I always measure my two cycle mix or Sta-Bil twice. Just today, an ounce of Sta-Bil in Sta-Bil measuring
device at the address below did not measure to be an ounce in my cup.

*** Remember the Sta-Bil is
said to be good one year after you open the container. I’ll have to make a big adjustment since I
stopped fishing from my boat. That was usually 12 gallons of gas to treat a
season vs 2 gallons for yard work. Plus, I stopped using my gas Chainsaws. I’ll need to share this bottle and downsize
since my 8 OZ will treat 20 gallons of gas.

I actually like the idea of
the 40:1 on my old equipment that I moved up to 50:1.

http://www.tapplastics.com/product/supplies_tools/fiberglass_tools_supplies/paper_containers/200

http://www.walmart.com/ip/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-32-oz/40724358?action=product_interest&action_type=title&item_id=40724358&placement_id=irs-106-t1&strategy=PWVUB&visitor_id&category=&client_guid=724e0d1e-4263-410b-9a69-335a0d543b67&customer_id_enc&config_id=106&parent_item_id=16565376&parent_anchor_item_id=16565376&guid=abeb7294-9f83-4016-b503-31c234d2e952&bucket_id=irsbucketdefault&beacon_version=1.0.1&findingMethod=p13n

Thanks, All!!! It has been extremely helpful ... I am going to continue the course of doing it my way

brinck, fwiw, I buy the oil in 1 gal(a lot cheaper) and store it in a bottle originally for iced tea lemonade, kinda like this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Creative-Bath-3-Gallon-Beverage-Dispenser-with-Ice-Core/21130892

and keep the bottle of 2 cycle oil to use as a measuring cup. so buy 1 gal of gas, dispense 1 bottle of oil and mix- done. at least I am consistent in mixture.

I assume gas would be the same country wide but at least living in Chicago and Dallas area, gas lasts a lot longer than some people say in this forum.

There is a big problem of with running an engine dry for long term storage. Dry is exactly that, dry. The fuel system and all of the Membranes are dry, and the membranes may not last being dry for an extended period of time.

I had a four cycle 22' lawn mower that I used for trimming. I used it every time I mowed to get into the tight places the rider, could not get to. It ran perfectly. We then moved to another house and I did not use it for a couple of years. When I put gas in and started it, it surged to the point that it was unusable.

It is my understanding that membrane in the carburetor that controls the fuel flow is the cause, and needs to be replace,

On the Brink: Not Rocket Science Bro ! After Yrs of Racing Snowmobiles and Dirt Bikes and Servicing same along with Snowblower , Chainsaws and Grass Trimmers and Blowers as a Hobby , there are Two Rules of Thumb ! Keep it Simple and Keep it Consistant . First , if your dealing with 2-Cycle Engines then buy the Best Oil you can obtain , I use Amsoil Premium Synthetic Sabre @ 50:1 for all my Small Engine Units. A few of my Pioneer Saws were originally 16:1 Rated in the 60's , Since I now have numerous Husky , Stihl and Echo Saws the Pioneers sit . However I fire them up occasionally with proper storage practises. As for Ethanol fuel issues no Problem all Premium Grade Sythetics today have Conditioners blended within them , no additional treatment req/d. As for 4 Cycle Engines I use Startron fuel conditioner available via Walmart for 7 bucks . 1 ounce will treat 6 Gal for 2 yrs of storage. The are other treatments out there also which are very effective. As for Oil measurement I use a Graduated Plastic Measuring Cup which is solvent safe. Normally I make up 1 Imp. Gal for the smaller units 2.56 ounces oil for 1 Gal . For the larger units 12.8 ounces oil for 5 Imp. Gal . The Sabre oil is specifically design to protect between 50:1 up to 100:1 . I used 70:1 in my Hot saws for 3 yrs with no problems and 100:1 in my Yamaha 4 Hp for over 10 yrs will virtually no wear . I cannot express strongly enough you cannot safely store E-Fuel for over 30 days without proper treatment and not expect reduced performance and eventual carb or engine issues. P.S. Running units Dry is Old School , prior to fuel conditioners or Stabilizers. I ran my Old Pioneers Dry back in the day to prevent varnish accumulation , and removed the Diaphram and stored it in jar of premix . Today this is not req'd for obvious reasons . Anyhow use what you like MMO, Seafoam , Startron, Stabil , but use it consistantly , If ops would use some common sense we would not have all these concerns of equipment not running properly , All The Best !

I feel storing small engines Bone
Dry “Problems” can be related to the type of carbs they have. In my opinion carbs with diaphragms vs bowls
could be an issue. Personally I stored a
35 HP Chrysler Boat Motor 3 years W/O a problem. It had a bowl on the Carb but a diaphragm in
the fuel pump.

I feel long periods of
storage are hard on most combustion engines.
What choices do we have at times?
I helped a friend start a car that had sat for years and had no
luck. I consulted a friend and he
consulted his older father that was a Mechanic.
He suggested adding approx 2 teaspoons of oil to each cylinder. Bingo!
That 8 Cyl Buick sent out a cloud of smoke about 1980 and was used at
least another 10 years.

This might be a “Pick-Your-Choice”
of storage and maintenance if over a year is needed... Starting my old Chainsaws Yearly with fresh
treated fuel Wore Me Down To An Electric Chainsaw.

Loger , oil in the cylinders protect the bore and rings , but does nothing to prevent wrist pins and crank bearing from oil fatigue from static oil failure during prolonged storage . Also all wheel bearings and driveline assemblies also are prone to static fatigue . These components must have a dynamic action (usage) . That is why most car buffs routinely start and drive their Antiques short distances to distribute the grease and oil to vital areas and to prevent such potential costly repairs , hell I even today start and run my RV up the Drive Weekly lol . Good point though on the specific detailed differences between Diaphram Carb and mechanicial updraft float carbs with fuel pump. My point being , either carb has a diaphragm component as you have indicated , which could dry out . Therefore I do not dry store my units. However to get back on track , 50:1 Ratio is all that is necessary with todays modern synthetic oils , so forget about antequated 32:1 or 16:1 Ratio's of days gone by and if you must use ethanol fuel and store it for over 30 days , then treat the fuel properly , or reap the misery , end of issue ! I have not suffered a fouled carburator for over 30 yrs for obvious reasons , I practice what I preach Amen lol .

That little oil gave
the Buick enough seal and compression to fire-up from sitting (vs a problem). Plus,
“Get On The Road Again”.

I need to fire-up my
35 HP Chrysler but it hit 100 degrees here yesterday. The water in
many of the local Lakes is still too high for good fishing. Plus, My Body and
I have agreed to retire from Active Boat fishing (since the early 70s).
Versus catching a guide or the banks when the Fish Are Jumping In Your
Basket. I would like to pass the Boat on Running 33 MPH, LOL!

I’m spending some time
donating some of my surplus stock vs it going to waste and I enjoy the space.

Yeah hot here too 93 Deg F and Sunny . Spent the morning replacing the Plugs and Wires on the 460 Ford in my Citation Rv . Way to Hot for up North here ! I think we scared off Jersey Boy , those Repair Techs have a way of screwing with a Dudes Mind Bro ! All the Best Loger!

Edit: My Body, Boat and I have agreed to retire from Active Boat
fishing (since “Starting” in the boats in the early 70s). That is more work than you initially realize
when the fish are jumping in the boat (as friends w/o any before or after work
or maintenance). Remind yourself or Kids
it should be 100% sharing if no other Boats are rotated in the rotation.

We caught enough fish for a Lifetime and Fun but I maintained to feel
for a lifetime.

I did not think it ever got
that hot there. My paper is showing 80s up there. I feel for the construction workers
here. Working a night under flood lights
is common to see. A worker across the
street yesterday started about 5-pm running cabling and worked well into the dark.

This heat puts a strain on my
schedule and it takes my energy. I try
to get a 2 mi energy walk when I can see a block away (6:30-am). Plan to have my outside work done by
10-11-am.5 days a week. I will work
projects inside but not as many Engines since my wife has retired. LOL!

Once they are cleaned up
there is a lot you can do inside. In
1968 my roommate and I rebuilt his 4 cylinder blocks inside w/o the Landlord
knowing. He just saw a cardboard box in
the Living Room. Rebuilding my 1968 VW’s
block worked just as well (except it was in a 2nd Floor Apartment.

Finally I have good choices, a
clean Double Garage (with heat), a clean Double Rear Car-Port and Recessed
Patio. Facing North and South, I’m
covered working Firewood or Etc on the rear south side.

It's been a unusual Hot and Dry Summer , so far ! The temps are normally moderated by Lake Superior up North here , however this extreme hot humid spell has lasted for two weeks. Going to send back South to You ok ? As for the Venerabal VW Flat Four , had 3 Bugs back in the 60's . Made a Dune Buggy out of a 1961 1300 and a Bush Buggy out of a 1966 1500 with a doaner Van Transmission and Rear Axle . Lots of fun . Later my 1st car (High School) was a 1969 Bug 1500 with Chrome reverse rims and Uniroyal Tire Paws lol . I modified the engines with extractor exhaust systems and Edelbrock High Rise Manifold and Carb , the air cooled engines had to be ran hard to maintain cooling efficiency ! Brings back some good memories . Well guess we have pretty well High Jacked this Thread Eh!

I apologize for the Jacking. It all seemed relevant due to the heat or my
70th yesterday.

Happy Birthday Bro lol !