This is my post on Weatherstipping

I think the continuous rubber style seals are best but not many companies use it.

Here is a picture of the continuous rubber seal on my Crestline Acclaim window.

This is my post on the operator cranks. This single operators are not nearly as smooth as the double operators.

From what I can gather:

Hayfield: Single Operator

Marvin Integrity Wood-Ultrex: Double Operator

Crestline Acclaim / Weathershield EnduraShield: Single Operator

Sunrise Verde: ???

Soft-Lite Elements: ???

Andersen A Series: Double Operator

This is a pic of my Crestline Acclaim window single operator.

This post will show the window aesthetics for the windows I am researching. I am looking for a slim wood window style. Not the cheaper bulky vinyl look. Some vinyls look great too, but not many.

Crestline Acclaim "Weather Shield EnduraShield"

This is the window I installed last fall in the upstairs of a 1.5 story home. It gets really warm upstairs in summer so I was fine with low SHGC, but don't want that for my main floor. Too bad Weather Shield do not carry another option besides 366/272 coating for triple pane. The window itself is very nice and cheap compared to other options.

This post is about the "Neat Glass" self cleaning option.

http://www.cardinalcorp.com/products/coated-glass/neat-glass/

Cardinal introduces Neat® naturally clean glass. It harnesses the sun’s UV rays to loosen dirt so water can rinse it away, leaving windows virtually spotless. Your windows will stay cleaner longer and will clean easier. The titanium dioxide layer of Neat glass reacts chemically with the sun’s UV rays and causes organic materials that are on the glass to decompose. It works even on cloudy days, as 80% of UV radiation gets through cloud cover. Thus when it rains, the decomposed dirt no longer clings to the glass, easily rinsing away.

As far I can could find:

Marvin Wood-Ultrex: No option

Hayfield: No option

Fibertec: No option

Crestline & Weather Shield: Optional "Easycare"

Anderson: No Option

Today I am leaning toward Marvin Wood-Ultrex, Fibertec Fiberglass or Hayfield Vinyl windows...

Sounds like some pretty solid choices all around.

This post will cover window screens.

Some companies offer high transparency screens like this one on the left.

As far I can could find:

Marvin Wood-Ultrex: No option

Hayfield: No option

Fibertec: No option

Crestline & Weather Shield: Optional

Anderson: Optional

Another thing to look for screens if you have window coverings close to the glass like with 2x4 walls is that spring loaded screens can be taken out without removing the window coverings and mounts for the window coverings. The plunger style screens require the coverings and mounts to be removed.

You can see here that because I have the plunger style screens, I have to remove the metal bracket and shade before removing my screen. The spring screens compress up so you can lift the screen up and over the window handle on the bottom.

This post is of my current what I believe to be Marvin double pane with Cardinal XL Edge spacer. I am trying to avoid the moldy sash due to the wood sash being too close to the frame and the water damaged interior caused by condensation from cold winter nights.

I will reserve this posting space for updates on my final decision and installation pictures. More to come soon! I am building my own mullions for this 35 degree bay window that I tore out. This way I can use 3 normal windows instead of having to pay an insane amount of money for pre-made bay window assuming they even made them for 35 degree openings. The joys of owning an old home!

Good afternoon! I appreciate your feedback, I will try to answer your questions below.

1. Yes I am interested only in triple pane due to the condensation issues. Since we only have 2 x 4 walls our window coverings are close to the glass also which does not help with condensation either.
2. The windows are not original to the house. The bay windows were from 1985 and the what I believe to be Marvin Windows are from 2001 if I am reading the glass etching correctly?
3. 
4. I tend to think you are right on this glass spacer issue with triple pane windows. It would make sense that they have little difference in temperature by the time it hits the interior pane of glass. Where did you find the data for the 2.5 degree difference between the XL Edge and the Super Spacer at the edge of the glass? Was that for a double pane or triple pane window? The stiffness of the stainless steel spacer could also be a benefit to hold the middle pane of glass steady through its lifetime? I wonder how the super spacer stabilizes the middle pane of glass in the IGU before it is put into the window?
5. Yeah I do understand the importance of looking at the ratings based on the whole window not just the glass. My second post shows the data from the NRFC for the whole window. The most relevant data seems to be on the NFRC website? http://search.nfrc.org/search/searchDefault.aspx
6. As far as the Windows that I can get, it seems that Fibertec, Jeld Wen Custom wood and wood clad and Marvin Ultimates are the only companies offering triple pane with the LowE 180 / LowE 180 combination of coatings? Marvin comes close with the LowE 272 / LowE 180 combination for the wood-ultrex line.
7. I agree with your reliability statement. It's too bad there is no long-term reliability data on the Super Spacer or Duralite? At least I could not find any. I did look at a cutaway of the Hayfield triple pane vinyl windows and the spacing between glass is only 0.313 inches and they had the Duralite spacers at around a 45° angle so it could fit between the panes of glass. I wonder if that is a compromise because they could not have the optimal 0.5 inch glass spacing?
8. Yeah I saw that Cardinal IG product development is in St. Louis Park. I am actually pretty close to there and it would be an interesting tour! I have a five pane bow window that I would like to just replace the IG units. I wonder if Cardinal would sell direct to me? Do you know of anyone who sells just the IG units?

good evening tk_40,

SuperSpacer and Duralite are spacer systems and not complete IG systems. The raw spacer materials are sold to window companies and the window companies manufacture the finished IG unit.

There are no centralized reliability statistics on either product because quality is all about the company that places the spacer between the two sheets of glass.

The last that I heard, Super Spacer had a one year warranty on spacer materials, but nothing on the finished IG, that goes back to the window company and there was no specific warranty on Duralite. But I haven't looked in a while so that could have changed.

You can even buy Super Spacer online and build your own IGU's. Personally I wouldn't.

The 2.5 degree edge difference is listed on Cardinal's web site, and I know it's self-serving, but unlike the Super Spacer ad above, Cardinal supports the claim with actual data.

That number is based on dual pane windows. When comparing triple panes, the difference becomes negligible.

I would compare performance statistics rather than worrying over-much about the width of the airspace.

I live in MN too!. I am very interest in the windows you are going with!. What is the exact window manufacturer you have selected and the window model? I cannot figure out from your writing! LOL!

Cardinal IG is a glass supplier for window's manufactures.

Thanks for confirming my choices of 3 pane windows!

@oberon

1. My comment about the glass spacing and the Duralite spacer being at a 45° angle was more about reliability than performance. I have never seen a cutaway of a window with the spacer at an angle like that, usually they are perpendicular to the glass? I wonder if they had to wedge the spacer in there at an angle due to the small spacing between the glass panes?
2. I was watching the video on the making of the IG units by Cardinal at this link. http://www.cardinalcorp.com/products/insulating-glass/endur/ It seems that the stainless, stiff Cardinal XL Edge and Endur spacer would have an advantage stabilizing the IG unit for shipping to the window manufacturers? There is no exterior bracing holding together the IG unit until after it arrives at the window manufacturer for installation into their sash? My question was with a compliant spacer like the Super Spacer, how does it hold all three panes of glass together for shipment of the IG unit to the window manufacturers? I assume there are IG unit manufacturers shipping Super Spacer based IG units to window manufacturers as it appears cardinal does for their customers based on the video? Maybe they use temporary braces to hold the Super Spacer based IG units together for shipping to the window manufacturers Or maybe the Super Spacers are strong enough to hold together IG unit on there own? Just something I was pondering.

@Harry

I am meeting with Above and Beyond Construction to talk about the Fibertec Windows. They are the distributor for Fibertec Windows around the Minnesota area. They are my first choice assuming the pricing is in line with Marvin Wood-Ultrex. They offer the LowE 180 / LowE 180 combo that I am looking for and it is all fiberglass. Marvin Wood-Ultrex only offer the LowE 272 / LowE 180 combo.

An interesting side note from 2014:

"James Hardie Industries SE has started a new Chicago-based division called Beechworth Windows to manufacture high-end fiberglass windows and patio doors at a former Weather Shield Manufacturing plant in Ladysmith, Wis."

I wonder how the relationship between Beechworth, Weather Shield and Crestline works for those three companies fiberglass windows? It appears that they are all using the same fiberglass frame and sash design. I did install a Crestline Acclaim window in a bedroom upstairs and it is a nicely built window for its low price. Too bad they only offer the LowE 366 / LowE 272 option in triple pane. The single operator is also not ideal for a relatively heavy triple pane fiberglass sash.

If any window company tried to lay a spacer at a 45° angle in an IGU and then try to tell me that they considered that to be an acceptable practice I would run (not walk) as far from that company as I could.

Spacers come in a variety of widths and there would be no logical or practical reason to lay one in any way other than flat against the glass.

Having said that, I am aware of a few instances where a specific window company tried to take a shortcut or two when making their own IG's that ended up costing them (and their customers) painfully. One in particular who didn't follow spacer manufacturer directions on how to cut/lay the spacer, and within a very short time they had a 100% field failure rate.

There are relatively very few residential IGU manufacturers who build IG units for window companies.

All of them combined would probably equal a total annual volume less than even a smaller Cardinal IG manufacturing facility.

The vast majority of window manufacturers who use PPG Intercept, Super Spacer, Duraseal or Duralite or Swiggle, or one of the few other spacer systems manufacture their IGU's in house rather than buy from an outside source.

Imagine a small window company that doesn't have nearly the sales volume to be able to afford automated equipment to build IG units. They can buy Super Spacer from CRL and build their own, but it would be a manual process in what might be a non-climate controlled environment. If they don't want to build their own IGU's then their options would be to either buy from Cardinal or else to buy from the "local" IG manufacturer who may not be any bigger than the window manufacturer and who may or may not have automated equipment and climate controlled conditions.

The local may actually manufacture an excellent product, or they may not.

As the consumer of the final product, you have no way of knowing the conditions under which the IG was manufactured. Even visiting the window manufacturer's facility doesn't tell you and seeing the finished IGU's doesn't really tell you how good (or bad) they may be.

The non-metallic spacer systems do vary in structural durability, but the better ones are going to perform adequately to excellently in most applications.

If you are buying a window from a top-notch window company, and that company manufactures their own IGU's then I would anticipate that they would make a good IGU as well as a good window because quality is part of their culture.

Yikes, you have me worried about these smaller window companies now! I'll take a picture of the Hayfield triple pane window the next time I am at the lumberyard. I am guessing it was more like a 30° angle but definitely did not look robust.

I did find this while searching the Quanex website, maker of the Super Spacer, Duralite and Duraseal.

"Industry organizations clearly agree that water has to be kept away from the seal of the I.G. unit, as
prolonged water contact is the largest cause of failure. Yet industry test standards for the performance of
windows and I.G. units have often failed to sufficiently alert manufacturers to the risks that poor glazing
performance brings. An area where this is particularly evident is in the waterproofing design to resist winter
condensation. Even with “warm edge” systems, cold weather potentially results in interior condensation, which
collects and runs to the bottom rails of the sash. Given the opportunity, water collects in the glazing pocket,
often prevented from escape by frozen vent areas on the cold exterior. Prolonged water contact of I.G.
sealants and water-soluble surfactants will cause premature I.G. unit failure."

They have a nice library of technical bulletins.

http://www.quanex.com/Technical-Library/Tech-Bulletins-English.aspx#duraplatform

It also looks like there are companies who make automated IG production lines for use with their spacers. But I doubt the small window companies can afford them.

http://www.quanex.com/Products/Residential/Insulating-Glass-Systems/Equipment-Application-Systems/Fully-Automated.aspx

Hatfield looks like a decent window.

Here is a pretty nice video on window manufacturing from start to finish from Simonton. They show the super spacer and hot melt butyl secondary seal manufacturing process.

The Quanex comments about water management is right on the money. Trapped water results in a significant percentage of all IG field failures. Water management is probably the number one concern when designing, building, and installing windows.

I enjoyed the Simonton video, and since I think you would find it interesting, here is a link to the Cardinal website videos. The link is to the IG video, but there are other videos that show how glass is made, laminated, coated, and a tech overview.

http://www.cardinalcorp.com/technology/reference/video-gallery#insulating-glass

The building shown at the very beginning of the video is the PDG R&D center in St Louis Park.

The Simonton video shows two different spacer systems being used - PPG Supercept and Superspacer. The Supercept is the stainless steel version of their Intercept spacer. Intercept is probably the most widely used spacer system among window companies that manufacture their own IG's. Changing to stainless significantly improves longevity and thermal performance of the spacer versus the original tin-plated steel used in Intercept.

But it also significantly pushes up the price so that the majority of window companies who were already using Intercept didn't upgrade to Supercept. In part because for a window company that makes its own IG's Intercept is cheap and easy to manufacture. Longevity and energy performance aren't really very good compared with the top-tier products, but that may not be the primary consideration for companies using it.

If you watch closely the description of the manufacture of the Superspacer-based IGU, in the Simonton video, you will notice that they were adding a butyl layer to the IGU after it was originally sealed. This is a unique characteristic of the Superspacer system.

Virtually all modern spacers use a dual seal system - primary seal for air/moisture impermeability and secondary seal for structural performance. The primary is the inner seal and secondary is the outer seal.

The most widely used material for the inner seal is PIB, or polyisobutylene, or simply butyl.

There are a variety of materials used for the secondary seal, primarily silicone, but some folks will use other options. But in all systems that immediately come to mind, the secondary seal is the structural seal.

Superspacer is unique in that they put the structural seal as the inner and the air/moisture as the outer.

Although there are (last time I looked) five variants of the Superspacer spacers, all of them are based on foam silicone as the primary spacer material. The foamed silicone contains a high level of desiccant and uses an acrylic adhesive to bind it to the glass. This is the structural element of the spacer system.

In the Simonton video, they are shown using butyl as the secondary or outer seal. Using butyl is a good thing because butyl will do a very nice job keep air and moisture out of the inside of the IG. The foamed silicone will not. It is porous to air and moisture intrusion.

One problem though is that EdgeTech (the original developer of Superspacer) approved other materials besides butyl to be used as the secondary air/moisture seal, including silicone and polysulfide, and a few other materials as well. As far as I have heard, Quanex (who acquired EdgeTech a few years back), hasn't changed that approval.

Using butyl for air/moisture blocking is the very best option, no matter the spacer system being used. Using polysulfides is probably acceptable in most cases, but isn't as good when compared with butyl. Using silicones is a majorly bad idea because silicones are not impermeable to air and moisture. Silicones are porous; but silicone was (still is?) an approved secondary seal for Superspacer.

Thanks again for the awesome info, I agree on the butyl seal 100%.

Well I ended up with double pane Marvin All Ultrex fiberglass windows. Paid the extra $25 per window to get the LowE 180 coating since LowE 180 is not a standard coating for them. Would have cost $150 extra per window to get the Wood Ultrex triple pane with LowE 272 / LowE 180. After looking at some LowE 272 coated windows I decided they still have too much of a green tint for me. So I compromised and at least with all fiberglass I won't have to deal with rotted sashes when it condensates on them. Only took 7 days to get windows so that was awesome.

Marvin All Ultrex Double Pane with LowE 180 was $425 per window

Mavin Wood Ultrex Triple Pane with LowE 272 / LowE 180 was $675 per window

Fibertec were going to be around $800 per window and 12 week minimum lead time so I did not pursue those any further.

Build Quality

I will upload some pictures tomorrow.

The nailing fin concept they use is pretty lame compared to the integrated nailing fins of most vinyl and the Weathershield/Crestline All Fiberglass windows. The foam corner pieces that are supposed to seal the corners are junk and barely stick to the flimsy plastic fins.

Also some of the sash weatherstripping on the window frame side is not cut very nicely so air can easily get past it. They don't have a 1 piece seal like the Weathershield/Crestline All Fiberglass window that I installed a couple years ago.

And finally the really annoying thing is on one of the sashes where the operator attaches it has a broken pin so there is a bunch of backlash going from open to close with the window crank. Should be an easy fix as they just have to replace the sash bracket, but I worry that unscrewing and screwing back in the same place on a fiberglass window is a little dicey from a strength standpoint since I am guessing they are self tapping screws?

Other than that they appear to be nice windows. The dual arm operator is way nicer than the single operator on the Weathershield/Crestline All Fiberglass window. And I really like the LowE 180 coating compared to LowE 272 from an aesthetic point of view.

Here is the install, just need to pick out what kind of trim now! So many options. MiraTEC, PVC, LP SmartSide. Any thoughts?

The 3M window flashing tape is really nice, was my first time using, I usually use butyl flashing tape. I also used the flashing tape to reinforce the corners since all they supply is those crappy foam corners. I always use the DuPont FlexWrap on the sill.

OMG. I just wanna say -- kudos to you! I thought I was doing thorough research on my windows, but you, sir, hats off to you!!!

I need to print this out and read it carefully. Lots of good info there. Of course now my architect is going to hate you because I will have so many more questions for him.

BTW, I wonder if you had considered the below as options?

1. Bildau & Bussmann (German windows, distributed by Eco Supply in the US). I was originally dead set on getting all aluminum windows, but the price/performance of the Bildau wood/alu-clad is making me think twice... https://www.ecosupplycenter.com/brands/bildau-and-bussman/

2. Dynamic (Canadian company). The rep dropped a couple of samples, the quality of workmanship is amazing. Not cheap though... http://www.dynamicwindows.com/product-lines/aluminum-clad-series/

3. Yaro (Schuco windows from Germany, fabricated in Slovakia) http://www.yarowindows.com/wood.html

4. Zola (fabricated in Poland): http://www.zolawindows.com/

I've narrowed by search from about 16+ window companies to the above 4.... Turns out, since I'm on the east coast, buying European windows actually isn't more expensive than buying US-made windows. Dollar for dollar, better performance and better built.

Ha, yeah not sure how I became so obsessed with windows, bores most people but too expensive not to care about them!

I did not look into any of those companies. I'm not sure I would go with aluminum windows unless they have done something to minimize the heat transfer through them. Would imagine they need a thermal break so aluminum does not go from the outside to the inside continuously. Aluminum conducts heat/cold very well, no good for energy efficient windows.

I really like the fiberglass window concept. Inherently stiff material that does not rot and has same coefficient of thermal expansion as the glass panes.

Decided on using cellular PVC for window trim. Continuing with the hopefully zero maintenance theme. Just bought the Surebonder pnuematic staple gun which uses the T50 staples at Menards for $25, perfect for temporarily holding together mitered trim while PVC cement bonds. The staple gun is an absolute dream compared to all the manual staplers I've used.

Actually, all 4 brands I mentioned above all have Wood on wood options.

I am going with aluminum for the contemporary look. Actually most of the Windows I'm looking at have very good performance numbers. The Bildau product for example has U values of 0.15.

Ah yes, they are not full aluminum frames, just the outside is aluminum. They look like solid windows!

Very interesting products! Continue on!

Yeah those Dynamic windows are have a thermal break of Vinyl or Fiberglass it appears from the pics. Very nice looking. Any rough costing on your 4 options you could post?

"Very interesting products! Continue on!"

Also very very much different prices ($$$$) than normal residential products (especially Crestline Harry)....................

Tk_40 - is that workshop your very own? Wow. Jealous. I do stuff in my garage among the jumble of gardening tools, bicycles, the recycling bins, the case of paper towels from Costco, and the like. Your pics are kinda like "workshop porn" LOL.

The European uPVC Windows run about $40/sq.ft in triple pans without any special colors. Add special colors and the price goes up. In my research, they were cheaper than the similar Marvin Windows quoted for my project. My pricing was for Intus Windows. There are several US / Canada based manufacturers who make these Windows too.

I wanted to go uPVC to save some $ but the glass sizes for my house was too big. If I were to go uPVC i would pick Intus. Very nice product.

I have a meeting with my architect today to discuss the final 4 options.
So exciting! (Is it weird that I find Windows exciting?). Lol...

Good luck Germain and I would venture a guess you will come in the $90 a sq ft range installed for your product. Let me know how far off I am if you do not mind, either here or you have my email.

Trying to get some of the estimates revised so we can compare apples to apples. In a few days I'll post up the prices for everyone to see! :)

Millworkman,

You are a little low. I would estimate about $110/sq.ft for Aluminum including installation. Window price is probably between $70-$90/sq.ft.

What do we win Germain? It is very exciting to be getting the windows out of the way. Now on to Doors:-)

Germain,

One thing to consider with tilt turn Windows is the window treatments. Since the operable ones open inwards, window treatments can be a little tricky. If you are doing curtains, there is nothing to worry about.

Good luck!

Last night it was -26°, yes that is a negative sign, in Minnesota, below is a comparison of 3 different windows I have installed. I am definitely a believer in the triple pane!!! Also the windows I added the shrink film to had minimal ice formation.

Below is the Marvin All Ultrex Fiberglass window I installed this summer. All three Marvin's I installed had similar ice formation. At least they are all fiberglass so no wood to rot out when it melts!

Below is the original 1985 Double panes that I replaced. I still have installed in other parts of home.

Below is the Triple pane Crestline Acclaim "Weather Shield EnduraShield", no ice formed on this window.

Great feedback. Triple pane definitely does work like a champ in these type of conditions and we are starting to see more and more application for the higher performance glass with tighter and tighter homes.

I'm an installer in Wisconsin and am purchasing the same window products as tk_40 and I want to share the quotes I have gathered for comparison. Prices are for the same size casement window.

Integrity all-fiberglass TWO pane from a local window design center: $465

Crestline Acclaim all-fiberglass TRIPLE pane from Menards: $545

Weather Shield Endura Shield all-fiberglass TRIPLE pane from ABC Supply: $1,040

Thanks tk_40 for your extensive research and data.

That is crazy the Weather Shield is so much more, I wonder if they use a double operator window crank mechanism compared to the single operator of the Crestline Acclaim? The double operator crank is definitely nice if you are going to opening and closing the window a lot.

Did you price out the Marvin Wood-Ultrex Triple pane, that was a couple hundred more than All Ultrex for me. I probably would have gone that route if they offered LowE 180 / LowE 180 option. Since I don't have that many windows I wanted as much light coming in as possible.

Have you checked out Wasco Windows?

I believe they are a Wisconsin company.

I looked at the wood/ultrex, but I've decided the maintenance-free quality of all-fiberglass is paramount. I looked at Wasco and saw they have tripane, but I think they do vinyl only, no fiberglass.

My mistake, I thought they were a fiberglass unit.

what makes you think fiberglass is less maintenance than vinyl? Looks like you get terrible pricing from abc supply. That window is basically the same as teh crestline.

I'm saying the full fiberglass Crestline is less maintenance than the wood interior / ultrex exterior combo from Marvin. Yeah, that Crestline and Weather Shield price difference is crazy. The rep I spoke with didn't know if they came out of the same factory, but said they were parts of the same company.

tk_40 and others: this has been an instructive and illuminating thread to read through. We're just preparing to build a house in Southern Maine and are trying to make decisions around window brands and options and would be interested to hear updated feedback after a couple years of use (and recent developments or new manufacturers/lines to select from). We're aiming for the sweet spot of relatively energy efficient and durable on a somewhat constrained budget (aren't we all?). Not opposed to take on a bit more debt for quality windows if they will pay off in the long run but also suspect that there's a point of diminishing return where pretty good windows will be where we land. European windows are appealing but I've heard that Intus no longer does residential projects and that Schuco now has a high minimum order ($20k? . . . unconfirmed). A thorough friend is using Loewen windows for his project and Marvin continues to surface as a preferred and trusted brand. Where is current thinking and what are lessons learned after a few years with your selections?

Schuco is not really producing a true "residential" window. Loewen and Marvin are both solid windows, in fact about the best wood, or wood clad commercially available window on the market. I would put Kolbe in the same conversation.

Hi, as a fellow engineer I was following your original post earlier and found it very thorough. Thank you. Just curious after all these years about the progress of your window replacement project, what did you decide to go with and if you are happy with your decision still? Any updates? -Looking at continuing my own window replacement project that never really took off until now.

Hi,

Over the last 3 years I have installed the following casement windows.

Summary:

Of the 3 windows I have now installed I would probably go with the Marvin "Essential" All Ultrex windows if I wanted an All Fiberglass double pane window. Unfortunately they do not offer a triple pane option for the Essential series. If we ever build new or have to redo windows in our next home, I will likely go with the Marvin "Elevate" Wood Interior / Fiberglass Exterior Triple Pane windows. Or I would further investigate the other higher end triple pane fiberglass options on the market. Since I live in MN and Marvin is based in MN and they are really nice windows, I would probably pick the Marvin Elevate's triple pane still.

The other higher end fiberglass options may have better thermal glass spacers, but I think with a triple pane, this likely matters much less compared to double pane glass spacers for condensation resistance.

The real advantage of a triple pane window is you can use any window blinds/shades you want and still have no condensation. For my double panes I have to open our blinds around 12 inches so the bottom of the window is exposed to the room otherwise they get pretty bad condensation on colder nights which completely defeats the purpose of having fancy thermal efficient double cell cellular blinds.

Crestline Acclaim Triple Pane with 366/272 coating

Good

• Excellent condensation resistance, virtually zero even at -20 deg F
• Nice wood like side jamb visual design look
• Stiff frame that doesn't move based on summer vs winter
• Nice gaskets
• Cheap

Bad

• Single Operator cranks are pretty bad, especially for a heavier triple pane
• Gives off a greenish hue tint due to the 366/272 coating
• I really wish they would update to a double operator crank and give more glass coating options, could be an excellent window with those updates!!

Marvin All Ultrex "now called Essential" Double Pane with 180 coating

Good

• Stiff frame that doesn't move based on summer vs winter
• Double operator cranks are nice and smooth
• Option for 180 coating

Okay

• Mediocre condensation resistance, typical double pane
• Jam visual design

Bad

• Kind of expensive
• No option for high transparent screens
• No option for self clean glass

Anderson 100 Series "Fibrex" Double Pane with 272 coating

Good

• Cheap
• Double operator cranks are nice and smooth

Okay

• Mediocre condensation resistance, typical double pane
• High Transparent screen option very expensive
• Can't remember if a self clean glass was an option

Bad

• Frame gets smaller in cold weather and larger in warm weather. I installed in summer and windows opened and closed great, then winter came and they would get slightly stuck due to the outer frame shrinking enough for gaskets on sash to get slightly stuck on fixed window frame. Likely due to the fibrex material's coefficient of thermal expansion and mediocore frame design that allows the thermal expansion/contraction to deflect the frame.