You can't really compare them since they are totally different components and work in totally different ways. One is an organic chemical compound (Chlorothalonil) and one is a bacteria-based emulsion (Bacillus subtilis ). One blocks enzymatic action in the fungus cells killing them and the other uses modified bacteria to penetrate, infect, and kill the fungus spore. Both provide a semi-protective leaf coating.

Many published controlled studies show Daconil consistently outperforms all the other products in rapidity of effect (fungi death) and long term plant survival. But there are literally hundreds of other variables involved as well that can't be controlled for outside a lab. So two plants or two rows of plants side-by-side of the same variety each treated from Day 1 with one or the other product is still just going to give you random chance results for localized conditions.

Plus you have to keep in mind the other growing condition variables that can affect over-all plant health and resistance. Since the common diseases are air borne what is the prevailing wind direction, in ground or in containers, sun exposure, nutrient and water variables, etc., etc.

So it boils down to the gardener choosing which of the two products, or any of the other similar products available, they are most comfortable with using. I don't use either product and you don't say why you have concerns about Daconil. But since you do have them and if you believe your concerns are valid, and if you are willing to accept what might be somewhat less beneficial effect then why not switch to some other product.

Dave

Ilaine wrote - "Thinking of spraying one row with Daconil and the other row with Serenade. Has anybody compared them side to side?"

Dave wrote - "I don't use either product and you don't say why you have concerns about Daconil."

Dave - Am I not understanding your response to this thread. You imply here, I think, that you do not use Daconil. Your older posts on this form suggested the use of Daconil. What product are you suggesting to use now for early blight and what is your reasoning for not using Daconil now.

Dave, good comment. I recognize that my proposed comparison would not be a truly scientific experiment. A university etc. would plant two entire fields of the same variety, etc. At any rate, I ordered a bottle of Serenade and a sprayer from Amazon so will start the anecdotal experiment this weekend.

Daconil is toxic to fish, and may make bees more vulnerable to parasites. That's what worries me. I live fairly distant from any estuaries, so I am more worried about bees than fish. I have a pollinator garden, lots of native flowering plants in raised beds, and I love my bumblebees and other native bees and don't want to hurt them. At the same time, I love home grown tomatoes, and was heart broken last year when I had to rip out every plant because they all died from blight.

So far, this year hasn't provided a lot of bees, perhaps because it was so cold for so long. I didn't remove any dead vegetation until fairly late in the spring but maybe it was still too soon.

I am assuming that hot, dry Arizona doesn't cause much blight. Fungi and mold are big issues here. We can't grow apples without spraying for fire blight, for example. My Hewes crab apple has never brought a crop to term.

Sorry for that confusion. You are correct that in the past when I was still running the family's commercial growing business we came to a parting of the ways with our OMRI certification for many reasons. We switched to Daconil in the commercial fields and with excellent results. It was primarily a $ based business decision.

But my personal home gardens have always been organic and since the sons took over the commercial side of the business I leave those decisions to them. My personal gardens remain organic. So while I can attest to the benefits of Daconil and I continue to recommended it to those who have no objections to synthetics, I don't use it myself. Not because it isn't a good product, it is. Not that I feel it is 'unsafe' for any reason to use, I don't. But I am most comfortable with my old organic roots and can afford to indulge them now but I try not to hard push either approach.

I don't know what ilane's concerns are as she didn't say.

Dave

Thanks for that explanation Dave. I try to be as organic as possible but I am not there yet and probably never will be. Do you mind sharing the product you use now to control Early Blight in your home garden. We get it every year. This is the first year I tried Daconil and it worked fantastic. In the past, I used copper fungicide from Bonide but in the past I never sprayed early enough in the season to stop the blight from spreading.

Just a reminder that AR = Arkansas. Definitely not dry. AZ = Arizona. I notice a lot of people thinking Dave's advice comes from someone in the desert who doesn't deal with fungus.

Thanks GB - yeah I didn't catch it that time. Guess I need to write out the state name to eliminate the confusion. We got ALL the diseases down here.

Yolos - I primarily use Soap Shield weekly from Day 1. Then if needed I will follow up with Bonide Copper Fungicide

and/or Bonide Sulfur Dust if needed. But I also grow many more plants than most since we do so much canning. So it pains me much less than most folks to just pull and toss a badly infected plant and take comfort from a batch of fried green tomatoes. ;-)

Dave

Thanks for your help Dave.

I spray with 4 kinds :

== Daconil (more regularly)

== Neem Oil ( organic) .

== Liquid Cop (copper fungicide)... I don't know weather it is organic or not.

== Chlorine solution spray >>> This is mostly for mold .

I believe in fungiciding as an insurance policy and as preventive measure.

Sey

Sey, do you use the daconil, neem, and copper all at the same time? Is blight prevalent where you grow? How do they work for you?

ilaine Sey, do you use the daconil, neem, and copper all at the same time?

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No , I use them separately.

I have not experienced any disease other than Grey Mold which happens sometimes in late September onward when the rain increases. At that point I use Chlorine solution .

None of the fungicides are cure once you get an infestation. So they are used mostly as preventive measure.

Sey