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Iowa Soil Test Help

10 years ago

After reading many posts I decided to go ahead and get the Logan Labs Soil test. I live in Iowa zone 5a. Previously, I signed up for Trugreen this year but after all the reading I cancelled and plan to care for the yard myself. I have Milorganite on hand and access to SiteOne products. Here are details about the two different areas( they are right next to each other) and thanks for any help & feedback.



Lawn


KBG sod installed 9/2015

Irrigation system installed (watering deep & infrequent)

Had two applications of .75lb N applied on 3/22 and 5/9 from Trugreen based on receipts



Outlot


Grass has been present for about 3+ years.

It can't be irrigated just whatever rain we get.

Had a single application of .75lb N applied 5/9




Comments (6)

  • 10 years ago

    The CEC would indicate more of a dense clayish soil. How would you characterize your soil? Is it hard or soft when dry? When wet is it sticky, soupy, mushy, or something else? Does it seem to dry out fast? Do you get runoff when you water?

    How is the grass doing?

    Can you run a hose to the outlot?

  • 10 years ago

    Hi dchall,

    Your assumption of dense clayish soil would be mine as well. It is hard when dry and after a heavy rain it does not dry out super fast. I do not get much run off at all when I water. The irrigation is the hunter mps.


    Grass is doing ok. With newer sod(lawn) the shady places are thriving and there are certain places in the yard that seem almost compacted but since watering deep & infrequent the yard is looking a lot better. Overall, the entire sodded part looks a little thin besides the shaded areas. Overtime it should fill in nice I hope.

    The outlot runs about 700ft from the closet faucet so it can't be watered unfortunately.

  • 10 years ago

    Thank you for such a quick response morpheuspa!

    I didn't think the results would be as close between the lawn and outlot. In the future I will get a single soil test. A few followup questions.

    1) Does what you have listed above get me to July 1st of next year?

    2) Should I apply Milorganite in the spring next year at all? If so, is there a target nitrogen amount per thousand square feet with the schedule?

  • 10 years ago

    1) Yes, at which point another soil test is probably in order, at least until the soil balances. After that, every three years or so is more than sufficient and for a soil with this ME, five years might do unless you see problems.

    2) Sure, if you like. It can go around May first (really, any time in May) and won't interact with the starter much, if at all.

    For most northern lawns, 2-6 pounds per thousand of nitrogen per year would be around the norm (for you, with KBG, 4-6). You're covered this fall with the starter, but you can also use Milo or a grain fertilizer if you want.

    Winterization should be done with a synthetic when the grass stops growing but is still green. That varies a lot, but for me it's usually around Thanksgiving, plus or minus a fair bit.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Thanks Morpheuspa. I will add the Milorganite in May with the rest of the schedule. Should I winterize in addition to what you have above for the fall?