Loger: Nice Pic up Bro ! I 1st choice for grease within this application would be Moly. 2nd Lithium. The 2 ounces of Carb Cleaner will have sufficient lubricity to soften the diaphragm if it not beyond repair , you will know within a few days . My bet all is good. The Tygon fuel lines are preferable with E-Fuel use .

Thanks
sstracker1

I have both
greases in Tubs and Cartridges. Too much
past Maintenance needs and slowing, LOL!
The 2 oz of B-12 might be a little heavy for that small tank. I could hear you suggesting a spike in the
fuel. I hope the Monster will not experience
an over dose. That is the smoothest 2
cycle but challenges my Left arm whip with the low compression pull.

Thanks For Your
Good Sharing!

What is a good rules of thumb
as to Moly or Lithium Grease when you have both?

1. Do not mix the two, Moly
being the non white looking from the Factory X Machinery.

2. Lithium is grease where
plastics or non metals can be involved and low or no heat.

3. Where is a good related chart
to print and laminate before greasing it???

4. On a past Metalworking Job
half of our hand tools Spec’s called for both types and all Lithium were not
whitish vs brownish. There is no end to
learning and maintaining...

5. Is this a Can Of Worms
that either grease will solve???

Thanks!

Hey Dude don't sweat the little things lol . I tried to simplify my answer since the Physics of Proper Grease Usage to Application could read like a Cheap Novel Bro ! Not only are there 5 Basic Grease Groups there are another 10 Combinations of each for various Heat and Pressure and Viscosity Applications and that's not including the Synthetic Products available . Heavy Equipment , Agricultural , Marine , Automotive , Aviation are just some of the Application Spec's out there. But , Rule of thumb is Moly Grease for High Pressure and Temp application with good water resistance . Lithium for Medium Pressure Low Temperature Application with low water resistance , both greases rated for metal to metal contact. It would appear your gear drive is currently packed with a multi purpose grease (green) . LX Red is the most expensive Extreme Use Grease available for Heavy Equipt. and Agricultural uses , little over kill for your sheers Right ! Like I said get a Good Quality Moly (5%) not (40%) and have a good night's sleep Eh ! P.S. Better feed that New Briggs some Qualudes Roflmao !!!

I Got It Loud And
Clear!!!! Roflmao!!! Take Care!!!

As sstracker says about the heavy equip grease, being a light(er) duty machine go with his rule of thumb.

"1. Do not mix the two," Not that it is critical but as mentioned earlier, if u apply a grease different than what is there, they will break down and you will get "water" dripping from your machine.

if u look closely, there is bushing on the shaft off center that pushes the cutter to and fro. It looks like the bushing has no play (wear from excessive past use). On ones ive opened up i just take a scoop of blue grease (for boat or something i recall) and just slapped in on the agitator and gear teeth..... :-P

fyi: mine i got 6 years ago and only use it 2x/yr. Run it dry when done using it. so far starts in 2 pulls each time i use it.

Thanks upup_and_away!!

Are your two pulls as easy as
starting an Echo Trimmer with “Healthy Compression”? Or!, two Fast Whips as to build some poor
compression? I can not hold the
compression in with my finger, which is my test when my gauge is not handy. 3-4
Good Whips will usually start it compared to 2 mild pulls to start my Echo
Trimmers.

This got my attention which
encouraged me to take a look at the ring and cylinder. Trust me!
They looked good IMO but hard to get a good Pic. There were no scores vs smooth cyl and rings. “Plus, The Monster Sounds Good”. I have not
put it under a load yet.

Pulling the muffler to check
the ring and cylinder I notice the spark arrestor was one of the cleanest I
have seen on used equipment. I’ll ck the
compression when I find the correct adapter or purchase another. It has been 4-5 years since I repaired that
model or close and I can almost remember “A Whip” or Faster Pulls was needed.

See the attachments:

Now I remember vs in the 90
degree heat outside. To get good light
up close on my target, I use auxiliary light. The camera’s lens is too close on
the shots and the flash will not supply the light.

I believe it is on the small size of motors - mine does feels easier to start than my weed trimmers. It runs fine so I never checked compression. When I say 2 pulls, being it sits around for up to 5 mos between uses, it wont start on first pull. I just prime it till gas shows up in the primer bulb then 2 more pushes + choke and it usually sputters and dies on the first pull cuz I I don't open the choke quick enough. Second pull usually starts up. That's what I meant.

I checked my compression gauge
I have used since 1970 on autos, small engines and boats. Usually I compare the plug’s thread’s length
with the adapter’s. That normally checks
out good with Autos. In this case my
gauge and plug is not checking out good (attached). As in the past, I always turn the engine by
hand if I am in doubt about the plug hitting the adapter.

** In this experiment, my
piston w/n clear the plug turning by hand.
Could I have worn that much rubber seat/seal off? With 3/16” of rubber
added I got 75 psi not pulling hard?

Even though this gauge has
always worked (autos mainly), I feel I need a shorter adapter for some small
engines. Checking Harbor Freight and Oreilly
Auto, the adapters only comes with “Compression Gauge Sets” (with many adapters). At this stage I am trying to get rid of
surplus tools. I would also hate to damage
a piston. I’ll test this adapter “Again”
turning slow by hand in the hedge trimmer with a ¼” O-Ring or reinforced Rubber
sleeve added. I’ll still consider machining
3/16" off the end of the adapter for future Insurance. Except! I feel that 3/16 is for helping to
align the adapter’s threads with the head’s threads.

** Since a piece of string
trimmer line is showing, when is it considered too old to use?

Please share some comments
and experiences....Thanks In Advance!

My arm and patience have
asked me to abandon the Sears Gas Hedge Trimmer “Experiences” (since it’s not a
need). I have almost agreed. While I still have just a little time in the
experiment. Probably this week it will
become a donation to a friend that has one.

Questions and observations:

1. Should I see signs of priming
while looking in wide open carb’s throat or just in line?

2. If my primer bulb is slow
to rebound from pressing, is that a sign of restriction?

3. I see fuel pressure going
into the tank while priming. Is it pushing fuel through the filter while running or just priming and switches? Or! Is my filter on the wrong line?

3. It runs “Finally” with
less trimming advantages over my similar electric trimmers.

I have finally gotten back to this! I purchased diaphragm as I was told I
needed. It would run with the old that
had a plastic feel. visiting friend’s
supply and part’s Dealers supply I saw it was too much like plastic vs rubber Had to purchase a carb kit vs just a diaphragm
but it appeared to match.

The monster will attempt to run better and drop dead in
seconds. Please Help me spot what I’m
missing.

To me it is not getting proper fuel and I am looking at these issues as to why
(suction, restriction, Etc):

1. The diaphragm matches, gasket on the side as diagram
   shows and old was installed.
2. How can I tell if diaphragm and metering Tab/Jet
   are in proper sink to release fuel?
3. Fuel lines suction feel restricted sucking by mouth
   as small tank’s step up to carb.
4. Tank has small vent line and filtered fuel and I rem the filter
   eliminate that as restriction,
5. I get A short idles on the prime but no signs of
   an attempt to accelerate or to pull more fuel.

My wife has trimmed all manually but one large Holley, Since
I trim too much and I agree.

What am I missing as trouble shooting and maintenance seems
to be challenging me with aging.

I figure the Hedge trimmer’s problem in my sleep. “Back To Basics“, Fire, Fuel, Compression”,
with fuel missing.

1. I did not replace the small screen in the carb
   but tried to clean it. Today I R&R it 100% cleaned.

2. I never checked the fuel from a year ago vs
   adding more. Approx ½ cup of water was in the fuel.

3. Re seated the screen, Replaced all the minimum
   parts removed and BINGO!

4. I could tell from the prime that I had a better
   fuel flow. It started and ran but needs
   a finer tune.

5. The Monster Starts and Runs mild enough that my
   wife will be able to trim to her Specs.

6. That was one good lesson “To Try And Stay In
   Tune”, with today’s 2 & 4 cycle needs (mainly2).

   See the short video if allowed. How are camera clips added since it was not allowed as a video ?

I got back to the Hedge Trimmer after a good increased energy
walk that helps to plan my projects (as to why it stopped) .

1. My plan was to check the fuel screen again since
   my string started 2nd pull on the same gas.

2. Bingo!
   There was more trash in the screen.
   Plus the Hedge trimmer was trying to run.

3. After a good screen cleaning vs replacing, the trimmer
   ran very good again and we finished.

4. Naturally this time, all went faster except
   trying to find where filtered gas got more trash.

5. See the trash attached. I
   should have used B12 to try and determine if it was grass or varnish.

6. I would say old gas varnish from the way I could
   rake it around on the screen vs grass clinging.

7. That means I need to add a little B-12 in fresh
   gas to the very small gas tank on the next job.

8. See a before and after trimming sample that my
   wife’s Dept should have trimmed 2-3
   years ago.

9. Learn to Enjoy Projects and Learning vs Stressing
   as Good Exercise for the Mind and Body!

   
   
   
   
   
   
   

Loger !.......Loger ! What the Hell were you thinking ! lol. Never leave untreated fuel unprotected ! Roflmao .

I treat all
of my fuel with Stabil. It was the
donated Hedge Trimmer that I was slow about soaking the carb in B-12 and
cleaning. The Monster Ran Flawless this
morning. I needed to finish the hedges
before my wife spotted how far back I was cutting them. The Plus was removing a small section of chain
link fence to make the back side look just as good as the front.

Take Care!

Try Startron from Walmart , I quit stabil 5 yrs ago . My fuel stays fresh and clean for 2 yrs in storage now . Starts right up every time .

Thanks for that “Good Info VS That Kick” LOL! I had starting experimenting with Stabil X 2 years
with my little usage. 2 Gallons is all
I use in mowers and trimmers treated since I stopped fishing and use electric
saws. Two year Stabile treated gas appeared
to be working if I am not off on present 9/2015 dated fuel. This was not a plan to keep the gas 2 years vs
a preventive effort.

After noticing Stabil is advertised to use one year after it
is opened, that said a lot and not to
economical containers for small usage…The situation Is What It Is!

A Local friend and I noticed two mowers were stored with the
oil removed as the fuel. Fuel we could
understand but removing the oil was new to us.
Can you give us an explanation why the oil would be removed? Is this a practice with a purpose or
individuals not knowing?

Thanks!

Removing oil when using conventional mineral oil for prolonged storage is the norm . Dino oils allow phase separation of acidic contaminates to come out of suspension and etch bearings during storage . Premium Synthetics have additives that prevent this , another reason to use synthetic oils .