Look at the plants. They'll tell you when they need water. They will start to wilt slightly. BUT, they will also wilt just because of the heat when there is plenty of water in the soil. I have just realized (see separate "furnace" thread) that this particular stress can be mitigated by just wetting the surface slightly. That will cool everything off, using rather little water. I now spritz the surface once in the early afternoon, and then water deeply when the plants really need it. If they're still wilted after the spritz, it's time to water deeply.

I hope you have plenty of mulch on the soil. You can let the mulch dry out a lot, because that's not where the roots are. The depth of mulch will determine how often you need to water deeply.

Once the plants get mature, the finger test is an inch deep, if you must do finger tests. The roots aren't at the surface.

High temperature gardening is really a different kind of gardening. Most people don't do it. Be careful about what books and online suggestions tell you to do. They are mostly NOT about high temperature gardening, and a lot of generic gardening knowledge that I read is pretty laughable in a high temperature situation. For me, right now, high temps are 100F, and low temps are at 80F. Dew point is 75F. Baaad.

Should the soil moisture be the same for seeds that you are waiting to germinate as for plants? Or do the seeds need more until the germinate?

I am using Howard Garrett's organic gardening book and Neil Sperry's book for Texas vegetable gardening. Also, looking at A&M Agrilife info online. (I have a couple of non-Texas books but I realize they have no idea of our heat) Neil Sperry is the one that talked about the fall garden and starting things in July/Aug. A&M direct sowing for my region confirms this and so does the chart in Garrett's book.

I have 30 spf shade cloth over the peppers, tomatoes and eggplant. When I stick my head under the tunnel it is noticeably better to me. Really they have been looking good if I can just keep the bugs from eating the new leaves. I bought aluminum screen and we in the process of making tube cages for them so nothing much can get in there.

My corn and beans are under summer weight floating row cover so the crows don't get them but I'm fixing to make tubes for them as well.

I have 2" or 3" of mulch in the beds and I have more than a dump truck load sitting there if I need more.

It's been around 75 at night and 98-100 during the day. Humidity has been a little high for us.

I'm very hopeful for these things to make it and I'm doing all I can to help the situation. But in the end if it doesn't work I'll just plant the fall crops for Sep and on and hope they work out and try these others again in spring.

Dan knows far more about Texas gardening than I do even though I'm a little south of your latitude but my jaw dropped at the idea that you are trying to direct seed all these things NOW? Given the soil temps you must have right now seeds would be steam cooking just as they do in the greenhouse when someone turns the heat mat up too high. Have you measured your soil temps? Have you had success doing this before or is it just an experiment to see if it is possible?

As already mentioned high temp gardening is very different from the normal, standard gardening practiced by most and for most the long-term problems with it far outweigh any benefits.

IMO you are quite fortunate to have had any germination but that is only the beginning of the problems those that do germinate will face. I have numerous plants germinating right now for the fall garden to get planted 3-4 weeks from now but they are doing it inside in normal soil and air temps.

So how to water your for germination? I don't see how it would be possible for you to over-water the soil unless it is heavily mulched under several inches of straw so that it doesn't dry out as soon as you water. If I were going to do it I'd soak the soil deep, plant the seeds, lay down soaker hose along the rows and cover everything with a good 3-4" of straw to try to drop the soil temps.

Good luck.

Dave

Edited to add as we were typing at the same time. I think you may want to take a closer look at the A&M direct seeding guide since your in DFW you are zone 3, not zone 1 so your fall planting dates are same as mine - late August thru Sept. The soil temps will have dropped 20+ degrees by then.

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/archives/parsons/fallgarden/falldirect.html

Germinating seeds have roots close to the surface and, well, they like to be moist at the surface. The problem for that is that damping off fungi like moist surface soil as well. Never seen damping off with beans and corn, perhaps because those seedlings are pretty sturdy. I too am a bit amazed about your success with direct seeding tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers. You have a green thumb!

With lots of mulch and appropriate shade cloth, I think you're in good shape. Of course learning from A&M extension and Neil Sperry is exactly right also for this part of the world.

30 SPF sounds pretty shady. You sure they're getting enough light? I'm not used to thinking in SPF, but I believe it is roughly the inverse of the transmission.

yes, I'm using that chart...it says Jul 1 for tomatoes, peppers and eggplant (and July 25th for transplants)

From what I read 30 blocks 30% of the light and I read that upto 50% (which seemed like a lot to me) was ok for growing vegetables. Don't know how accurate that is. My package says the cloth blocks 30%

The only problem I've had with the peppers, tomatoes and eggplant is something eating the leaves off. They germinated, look great, don't wilt, are growing (particularly the tomatoes which many have 2 sets of true leaves now). I planted these on Jul 2).

I've never gardened. LOL! I am just ignorant enough to follow the directions. Neil Sperry says in my book to plant the tomatoes in the first week or two of July and to provide some afternnoon shade at first possibly (hence the shadecloth was purchased).

I guess I don't figure I have much to lose if it works out. If not next summer I will be trying to figure out how to start transplants but I have no where to do that but maybe the garage, which is hotter than outside sometimes.

I think it was Howard Garrett's book that recommended planting the corn and peas a little deeper (like 1.5 to 2" instead around 1", I think, going by memory right now) to help with the soil temps. Again I have lots of mulch I got from the county. It is mostly cedar, oak, mesquite and is very rough and have it pretty heavy on the beds.

Have you checked with your County Extension office? I often pick up planting info for my area from the Master Gardeners booth at the county fair. Most also have a website that gives you local growing info. Nancy

True but did you notice that the corn is Aug. 20 th and the beans you asked about is Aug. 20th to Sept. 1. Many often don't understand how different crops will respond very differently to soil temperatures so your germination issues with the corn and beans could easily be explained by the differences in those dates. And just as in the spring the planting calendars are meant to be used as general guides. Actual measurement of the soil temps can make all the difference between germination and failure.

Next year will you be able to get a normal early spring start on your seeding rather than having to wait so late?

Dave

I never let the soil dry out when seeds are germinating or when the seedlings are still quite small, and with limited root systems. Water IS what makes the seeds germinate and the cells expand.

However, that being said, I use a watering wand that distributes a heavy mist, allowing me to moisten the top inch or so of soil without drowning anything or disturbing seeds or tiny plantlets.

I will water once or twice a day in the earliest stages, depending on the weather.

Frequency diminishes as the plants grow and the root systems develop.

I will be able to start these things in the spring next year! (Although Sperry says that you get a better fall tomato harvest from new plants planted in July) I don't plan on replanting if I can make them go all summer and into fall though. I just didn't have the garden built and ready until July 1 and I figured anything I will get in the fall will be more than I would get if I wait until spring.

BTW, I guess I was going with Howard Garrett's books on the beans (lima) , "in general plant lima beans from April 1 to Jun 15 and July 1 to Aug 15" and corn, "in genearl Mar 15-Apr 30 and Jun 1 - Aug 15"

The only other "bean" dates I found for specific types were Garrett's book on Southern Peas (his says is a bean) were Apr 1- Aug 15. BTW, both of my Blackeyed peas did germinate, one of them is really quite large already and the other only has one large leaf because a bug ate the other one.

My understanding about these was that it could be beneficial to plant every few weeks for a staggered harvest.

I had trouble finding information for specific types of beans but then A&M had an article about fall beans and talked about dry beans and I took it that all dry beans basically were treated the same.

I replanted the ones that didn't germinate plus another 2 plants of each type 2 days ago. I went out tonight and put hay on them to help with the soil temps. Maybe I'll have success this time. If not I'll wait later into August. I don't know when the soil temps drop but I would think they would still be high in August.

I appreciate all of you guys advice and patience with my inexperience and ignorance!!!

Where do you read that SPF 30 blocks 30% of the light? SPF30 sunscreen is pretty opaque stuff (at least in the ultraviolet). But if you're really blocking 30-50% of the light, that seems fine.

Re county extension office, Texas A&M ag is the DEFINITIVE source for Texas gardening. All Texas county extension offices point back to Texas A&M Agrilife. Sounds like you're already connected with that.

Now, with regard to normal early spring start, I'm assuming that what you are trying to do is a fall garden. No? That is, you're not late for that. But fall gardens are hard, because they need to be put in in July and August. I think the point is that you should understand that a spring garden is going to be a LOT easier.

That's interesting that Neil Sperry says you get a better fall harvest from new plants planted in the summer. He's not comparing that to a spring crop, but is comparing that to what you'd get from spring plants that you hold over into the fall. Not surprising. Those mature plants suffer a lot in mid-summer.

Yes, he says those plants have suffered and have trouble recovering. He says a fall garden is the most successful and that more people should be doing that. I've never known too many people to do it and I'm sure they are sick of it all by the middle of summer and the heat doesn't make you want to think about it much. A&M says that beans doing better in the fall garden than spring. I've read several positive things about the Texas fall garden.

BTW this is the shade cloth I have:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YMEUUNW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I thought I read spf on one while researching but I maybe wrong about that. I don't see that term used with this one but seems to clearly block 30% of light and it is cooler underneath and I'm guessing the mulch stays cooler (saw your furnace post). Everything looks really well under it.

Another good book on Texas veg. gardening is Sam Cotner's "The Vegetable Book". They have it for sale on the Texas Gardener Website for $34.00 including shipping. He was the vegetable specialist for the extension service in Texas.

I think that Neil Sperry was talking about starting the tomato's indoors and transplanting them to the garden. It gets a little size on them and they can stand the various insects better. Put out transplants about July 15th.

Blackeye peas (purple hull taste better) do well in the summer but need to be planted by early August. They can not take cold weather, much like cotton. I had someone plant them down here the about Sept 15th. Made some really nice plants but about the time they started bloom in early November we had a cold snap and stopped all growth. Even though we did not get a frost until December they did not make. I think you should get a good crop on your peas. They can take heat and are a plant that are fairly drought tolerant.

Green beans can be planted a little later, probably by Sept. 1st for your area. They make in about 60 days so can be planted later.

If you have sandy loam or sandier soil, do not let the soil crust over before the seeds germinate. The seeds can't break the crust and some will come out without the seed part (just a numb). You should be able to soak the soil, plant the beans, and have the beans sprout before watering again. That is one way to plant cotton that farmers do not irrigate. If you get a rain that makes the soil crust over, either keep the soil moist or break up the crust with a hoe.

Goodness yes. Neil Sperry sure wasn't talking about direct seeding tomatoes and peppers in July! That being said, taking indoor seedlings outside into 100F heat is pretty shocking to them, and will require shading and probably careful hardening off as well. Lots of water. Funny. We usually think about hardening off as preparing seedlings for outside cold in early spring, but it works the same way in deep summer for the heat.

"Goodness yes. Neil Sperry sure wasn't talking about direct seeding tomatoes and peppers in July!"

Must admit I wondered about that. Not familiar with the book but I hoped it was a mis-understanding rather than that he was actually advocating doing that as it makes no sense. Big difference between planting transplants for Fall gardens - that's a common practice - and direct seeding those same crops in July!

Dave

You can do it that way, as Linda was able to get good germination. Its just that with the plants that small insects can kill them very easily. They dry out quickly also. Tomatoes grow like weeds. I have some come up every summer from some damaged fruit that did not get harvested.

One suggestion on planting peppers. Hot peppers do well in high temperatures. Bell peppers do not. You will get an early spring and late fall crop of bell peppers. The sweet Banana peppers will make all summer long. I have not had too bad a problem keeping peppers alive all summer. Tomatoes do play out this time of year.

Yes you can get germination although it will be substantially reduced. But keeping them alive and healthy at that stage is exceptionally difficult what with pest and diseases and heat that regular transplants could cope with. And it puts you weeks behind in terms of production too compared to transplants or rooted cuttings.

Volunteers, those carry over plants that we all get from damaged or unharvested fruits are already acclimated to the conditions and have often reverted to parental genetics so are much more tolerant of adverse conditions then are new seeds.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not opposed to experimentation as long as one understands the increased odds of failure and lowers their expectations. I just found it difficult to believe that an apparently respected and knowledgeable book author was actually advocating direct seeding tomatoes and peppers in July, much less doing it in Texas.

I'm also glad that Dan clarified the comment of Sperry "that you get a better fall tomato harvest from new plants planted in July" does not mean better than spring harvest, merely better than from over-summered plants.

One of the problems with gardening books is that they are often open to mis-interpretation by the reader due to their level of inexperience and there is no way for the author to correct those mis-understandings..

Dave

Well, the books I have (in rereading them) are not clear on some points and I probably misunderstood from what you are saying. So does that mean on the A&M Fall Direct Sow dates that they direct sow doesn't mean in the garden? I interpreted direct sow and sowing directly in the garden.

I won't have this problem next year as I will start all of these types of plants in the spring. I will probably still attempt to start them in the garden.

BTW, we build little tubes from aluminum screen that are about 6" tall and 3" in diameter. We closed off the tops by pinching the screen closed and using a couple of brads. I placed these over all of my seedlings and that seemed to stop the bug problems. I'm pretty sure I got near 100% germination on my tomatoes. They are looking really good, too. They are about 3-4" tall with 6 or more leaves. The soil temperatures under the shade canopy have been ranging from 85-93 degrees. Even yesterday at 102 out I only saw 93 in the soil (about 1/4'-1/2 down). I'm still waiting on my pepper replantings to germinate (they took 10 days or so last time I replanted about 7 days ago). All but 2 peppers were eaten by bugs before I realized what I needed to do.

My second direct sow attempt at beans as been much more successful and they are beginning to come up. I added a shade canopy over this bed Friday (I resowed the beans on Monday).

My second planting of corn and popcorn are almost all up and some from the first planting are close to 6" tall. The germination of the corn and one of the popcorn types has been a high percentage. I only had trouble with one of my popcorn varieties but some of them are coming up in the successive planting.

Things are looking good and I built some toad houses out of stone from my property and I have a toad that is living in the garden now. He must have slipped under the gate as that is the only way for him to get in and out so I was surprised to find him. We have identified around ten varieties of frogs and toads on our property and we have literally thousands of frogs and many toads. I saw a wheel bug and I'm overrun with dragonflies so that is good!

The only thing that most people in Texas sow indoors is peppers and tomatoes. The reason is in order to get a good crop before the hot temperatures you have to grow them indoors while the temperature outside is too cold. I start tomatoes indoors and put them out about a month before last frost date. On the days I might get a frost I put a 5 gallon bucket over them until it warms up later that morning. I have also used 3 liter coke bottles as mini green houses so I could put them out early. On cold nights just screw on the cap to keep frost off. Everything else is better to start in the garden (beans, peas, okra, corn, squash, melons).

Tomatoes can be transplanted easily, even burying the stem 4 or 5 inches into the soil. Peppers can get stunted just by spreading out the roots.

Just remember that a crop failure in gardening is not really a failure but a learning experience. I have tried many things, some work, others don't. Sometimes you do everything correctly and fail, and other times do almost everything wrong and make a good crop. Each year is different. You are doing a good job on researching so you will be much better in a couple of years.

Speak for yourself. I grow just about everything (except root crops) indoors as seedlings. Squash, melons, brassicas, leafy greens, etc. If you direct seed, you're really not quite sure where they are going to come up, and shielding against cutworms is essentially impossible. I do direct seed peas and beans, but I have to dust the rows carefully with insecticide.

Many many people subscribe to the myth that cucurbits are best direct seeded. That's true if you're not careful, and let the seedlings get pot-bound. But if you are careful, there is no problem at all transplanting them.

And like rhizo, I never let the soil dry out (deliberately) while seed is germinating (apart from beans and peas). In fact, any sign of wilting is stress. So the idea of allowing the soil to dry out between waterings is something with which I disagree. But it is said so that people don't over-water their plants and have them at first swimming and then later, drowning.

I guess I didn't answer the question about the fall planting dates on the tomatoes. Neil Sperry suggest planting the tomatoes indoors the first of June and transplanting them to the garden around July 15th. Yours are not too far behind so they should do o.k..

If you were transplanting, you can plant the tomatoes a couple of inches below where they were growing to help with the watering. Wherever a tomato touches the ground it will root, so planting deeply does not hurt them unless the soil is too cool in the spring. Then you can just lay them on their side and plant an inch or too if they are too leggy.

One thing I don't like about fall tomatoes is in late fall it takes longer for the fruit to ripen due to the cooler temperatures. When you do get the freezing temperatures you must harvest them before the freeze or they will turn to mush. A frost will not do this but will kill the plants. Some will ripen in the house, the other can be used for fried tomatoes. I hate looking at the forecast and hoping the 20 or 30 tomatoes on the vine will ripen in time.

'Direct sow' means to sow directly into their growing place - the garden.

If you have a problem with cutworms on cucurbits just plant them with a can or the screening Linda is using around them a couple of inches in the ground. Cutworms do not burrow deeply. Make sure that a cutworm is not in the area of the can or screen, did that one time. It has worked well with my tomato plants to prevent the cutworms from killing the plants.

You can get maybe a weeks growth before the roots on cucurbits become too bound up. Anytime you take an indoor plant and take it outside you will shock it at least a little. According to Neil Sperry you can get about 3 or 4 days head start on cucurbits that is grown indoors if the plant is not rootbound. Some people do use transplants for melons but farmers do not. Knox City grows many acres of seedless watermelons and all are direct sown.

As far as lettuce I have grown it inside in the winter so it can be done. Just used an east facing window and shop light. However, now I just plant the lettuce outside in containers or raised beds. I still would not transplant lettuce outside. But that is just me.

One interesting factoid about fall gardening is that fall is actually shorter than spring. About a month shorter. If you look at the monthly mean temps (at least in Texas) they go down in the fall faster (before date of first frost) than they rise in the spring (after date of last frost). So getting plants to fruit and ripen properly can be a bit of a race in the fall.

I think farmers direct sow melons, but if you're planting thousands of them, that saves a load of work. If you're planting just a few, it hardly makes a difference.