Most licensed contractors can see if the wall is load bearing.

I would contact 2-3 remodeling contractors for bids. Not only must you be concerned about the wall being load bearing, but also if there is any plumbing, electrical or ductwork in the wall that would have to be moved.

Do you have building plans?

A knowledgeable, experienced contractor should be able to put in a beam if it is a load bearing wall. The beam may be able to be installed in the attic space if you do not want an exposed drywall or wooden beam. Keep in mind that there will be considerable expense involved.

You asked about putting it in writing, which makes me think you want something official. In that case, I think you need a structural engineer. Many contractors can tell you the answer (though they won't always agree, as we've experienced this with the same type of project). But when it comes to something "official", I think it's only the structural engineer who will be able to satisfy the building department (I'm guessing that's why you're asking).

You need to hire an engineer to review your project and provide the necessary engineering specifications.

You need a GC that has a relationship with a structural engineer. If it's simple, he can deal with it all, including getting the permit. If it's more complex, he already has the relationship with the structural engineer. Plus, he will have the electrician subs, and HVAC subs, and plumbing subs that may be needed to safely remove the stuff inside the wall.. He will also have a relationship with a flooring contractor that can patch the gap in the flooring that will be created, if you have additional material.

You are not going to save much of anything just removing the drywall. That is the only safe thing that an amateur would be able to do when taking down a wall. That might make it easier for any GC to see what subs will be needed to deal with the innards, but there just ain't gonna be even a $20 deduction on a price for the overall job. If you don't want to hire them for the overall job, don't even expect them to return your calls. Good GC's are far too busy to try to work around an amateur in the middle of their job.

Thanks for all of your comments and ideas. I will def. look into getting a GC to come in and look at the job and I'll keep my hands off of this part. Obviously I've been watching too many DIY shows. I do know that there are no pipes or ductwork in the wall, just one electrical socket and an old phone jack. Hopefully this job won't be horribly expensive.

If you want it in writing and stamped, you should get a structural engineer. My client and I just did this exact same thing with her kitchen/family room wall. A structural engineer came out, did an inspection and then gave us the proper paperwork. Wasn't too expensive for the inspection. He then was able to size the proper beam since unfortunately our wall needed a beam after inspection.

Not a pro but have done some remodel/rebuild myself.

Do you have an upstairs?

If your home a single level, and depending on whether you can move any insulation out of the way, you may be able to get a better idea of which walls are load bearing by viewing the rafters from the attic -- where you can tell a load bearing wall because will carry the weight of the ceiling joists rafters/roof. A wall that is run the same direction as the ceiling joists with only one ceiling joist atop it that is resting on two other walls would not be a load bearing wall.

Even if you have a pro do any rebuild, you could remove the drywall only and you could see if the wire to the old outlet and/or phone jack enter the outlet you want moved, either from the top or bottom or side via another, adjoining wall. That would let you know if it is the end outlet in a series on the same breaker; and, if so, which outlet comes just before it so you know where to the wire (after shutting off the power first, of course). If there are wires going in both directions, you likely need an electrician because removing that outlet will shut off power to any outlets on the same wire beyond it --- opposite side of it from the breaker box.

Even if it is a weight bearing wall, a pro might be able to open it up by providing sufficient support in key places such as on either side of a cabinet wall divider and adding headers on either side of those walls as well as in between. Doing this requires supporting the weight while replacing the wall with other support.

http://www.homedecorlibrary.com/room-dividers-for-living-room-and-dining-rooms/

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