Software
Houzz Logo Print
jy20thcent_5a

Hints on replacing a 60-yr old Tappan gas range-top - cutouts, sizes?

10 years ago
last modified: 10 years ago

Hi,

Can anyone give me a hint on where to start finding options for replacing a 60 yr-old gas range-top/cook-top at my grandmother's house. It's been down to one (and a half) working burner(s) for years, and now that one is starting to get a bit wonky.

The range was installed when the kitchen was re-done in the late 1950s, apparently built into the Formica counter-top, and wood cabinetry. Each of the two 2-burner units has its own pilot light, and everything about it is heavy (cast iron? and thick stainless steel?) etc. Photos below.

Would this be a custom install? The dimensions don't seem to exactly match any current standard size found by online search, and suppose there is the (unwelcome) possibility of needing a huge, expensive job of counter and cabinet work - besides the cost and installation of a range. Exactly what category of business does such work?

- not sure how to determine the size of the current cut-out
- maximum outside edge dimensions of current cooktop: front to back : 20 1/4" ; side to side: 23 1/2"
- center of burner to center of burner for current cooktop: front to back: 9 1/4" ; side to side: 11 3/8"


Thanks.

Comments (14)

  • PRO
    10 years ago

    IMHO, it will be next to impossible to find anything that will fit that footprint. Most cooktops are either 30" or 36" wide.

    How is your cabinetry constructed? Is it individual cabinets or is it stick-framed with no sides (gables) except for the end of a run? Stick-framed cabinetry was an old way of building cabinetry for kitchens, bathrooms, etc.. Rather than individual cabinets put together to form a run, carpenters would simply make a face frame front that the doors would hing off and the shelves and bottom would be affixed to the face frame at the front and the wall at the back and ends. The cabinetry inside would be one continuous piece. If it is stick-framed, you may be able to fit a new 30" in it's spot by cutting the coutertop opening larger. If that old cooktop is located within the confines of a small cabinet with it's own gables, it would require quite the retrofitting to accept a wider cooktop.

    Can you provide us with more pics of the cabinetry it's going into?

  • 10 years ago

    And yes, I have taken the time to write to both Home Depot and Lowes and recommended a better way for them to allow users to search for appliances on their websites. I volunteered to do it for free. But in neither case are they taking me up on it and it's just a pain to use their websites...

  • 10 years ago

    An option is a 24" Miele cooktop . There are a few more options in 24" from other manufacturers. You could then cover the front where the knobs are with a wooden panel.

    Another option is a 24" Bluestar rangetop which will come over the front and the current control locations would be retained. This will require a hood which is not mentioned in your current post.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Simcoe, thanks for the cabinet details to check. Not there to get photos, but I believe it may be a combination of what you described. The front face is continuous, but the interior is partitioned.

    Thanks practigal, I see that AJ Madison lists size and cutout detail, too, which seems quite helpful.

    homepro01, thanks. I had noted a couple of 24" models online, but couldn't figure out how they'd compare to the smaller external measurements I took. Or how to tell if they'd drop in to whatever cutout is there, etc.
    The rangetop's are beautiful, but are far out of budget. (The Summit 24" models are a tenth of those prices :) Looks are unimportant, and, realistic or not, the homeowner so far still has late-1950s prices in mind…

  • 10 years ago

    jy20,

    The Miele matches your measurements and it is a drop in unit. You will remove the existing units and drop the unit into the cut out.

  • 10 years ago

    Thanks for the clarification homepro01 - guess for some reason I'd mistakenly presumed a square geometry - that 24" meant 24"x24".

  • 10 years ago

    Also, have you looked into just having the existing unit repaired?

  • 10 years ago

    I would guess it is cheaper to have repaired than replace. But once you are there note where the gas valve is as well.

  • 10 years ago

    These items were built to be serviceable, here's a website with instructions:

    http://www.appliancerepair.net/oven-repair-5.html

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Wow you've given us a lot to think about. Thanks.

    Hadn't considered repair as a possibility before. Didn't think replacement parts etc. would be available. (And in general it has seemed that service people who know what they are doing - especially with older tech - and who have the skill to repair and not replace can be really hard to find.)

    iroll, that diagram and info is great. (Never knew the function of those pinholes!) Although my grandmother has said she cleans it well, before proceeding further, I'm going to try "detailing" it next time I'm there.

    If i recall correctly when the cover is lifted there is corrosion visible in places - but only in what looks like structural support (metal straps have broken off) - whereas gas-related things somehow are still stable.

  • 10 years ago

    Yes, finding someone who can do this in your area may be a challenge. But vintage stoves are still in fashion so you should be able to find a repair person.

  • 6 years ago

    Did you replace that stove top? Do you still have it? I'm looking to buy one exactly like that

  • last year

    I’m looking for drip pans for the same stove top anyone know were i can find 4??