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tedpeterson8

Seedlings and Fertilization

10 years ago
last modified: 10 years ago

Ok, I err'd in not laying down any starter fertilizer in a largish area of the backyard, the power company had restored black topsoil and graded where they did their work. I wanted to get it established right away. Doh! Anyway I watered it the last week or so and it's about 40% colored about 1" or so today, I'm happy that it's coming in as it is on a slope.

I got a deal on 10-10-10, that I am using for the rest of the lawn for two fall fertilizations this year, one in the next couple weeks as soon as rain is forecast, will I hurt the new seedlings by applying 1 pound per thousand at the same rate as the rest of the lawn, or maybe cut it back by half?

Or I could broadcast some now and water it in with the hose?

Comments (10)

  • 10 years ago

    Yes, that's the plan, 1 lb/N per 1000' sq ft.. The prill size is pretty coarse, I have a scotts edger mini or somesuch, but a 10 setting seems to pencil out. I used it on the lawn last fall and it seems to work well in the fall. I don't want to burn the seedlings though?

  • 10 years ago

    The main thing is not to trample all over the seedlings until they establish a little bit. They can take 1 pound of N no problem.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Thank you for the prompt reply! I think I can sort of sneak by on both sides of the work area with the spreader set on "edger", it has about a 4' throw or so so should be pretty good coverage more or less. I'll water it in, any undissolved granules won't hurt anything until it rains a bit more?

    Living in Iowa with good soil, heck, it almost looks like I know what I'm doing out there, what's so tough about growing grass no problem! (Is there a 12 step program for lawn enthusiasts?) Thanks again.

  • 10 years ago

    I'd suggest cutting it back until after the second or third cutting of the new turf.

  • 10 years ago

    Well gave everything a drink of water just a few minutes ago and looked at it more closely with an eye towards a spreader, don't think I could use one effectively without walking on it, it's an awkward shaped area getting established, sloped against a couple fences in the corner of the lot. It's pretty decent topsoil, can't complain about that.

    Maybe the plan will be to hit it along with the rest of the lawn in November for the 2nd fall application with the 10-10-10, it ought to have been mowed several times by then, when it's still green but no longer growing.

    Although, found an opened half bag I forgot about, maybe 5 pounds net (enough!) in the cabinet of 32-0-10 Fall Lawn Food from last year, could get rid of that later this fall since it isn't enough for the rest of the lawn.

    Thanks for the help folks! This is a great forum.


  • 10 years ago

    Everything came in pretty good, I've mowed it a couple times, fertilized, watered in and tapering off on the watering.

    Still some bare spots, I don't think the contracters were especially particular about seeding uniformly. This is a fescue type (shade tolerant) grass. Is it true that this stuff won't tiller out and fill in? If that's the case I'm going to need to lay down some more seed. Well the bare spots are too large even if it will, I'm thinking. Is it too late to get some more grass established this fall? I think it's worth a try. I don't know what seed they planted, but I have some bagged stuff kicking around the back of the cabinet, it's that green dyed patch material that has seed and synthetic mulch mixed together. It's a couple years old, I'm thinking might as well use it up.

  • 10 years ago

    It's prime seeding time now I think. That patch seed may be too old though

  • 10 years ago

    Well that could be. I think we'll just lay it down anyway and see what happens. Some of it will germinate.


    One thing I noticed in the front, sort of experimented with different seed bed prep techniques. The areas where I used commercial "lawn soil" came in great. The areas where just the native soil was prepared, not so much. Huge difference. Not sure why that is. Bluegrass is a lot slower and "pickier" about everything being just so. Bought more topsoil and KBG and fertilizer and going to try and see if some other patches can get eatablished this fall.

  • 10 years ago

    KBG will fill in those spots and is always a good overseeding seed if thats what you want.....eventually, given the right conditions it will really take in your yard. It is very picky though and will sprout and pout you into concern but don't worry, its growing roots!

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