If you want to get the best value, buy a bag of urea, a bag of muriate of potash(or sulfate) and a bag of triple super phosphate and mix it yourself. For a pound of each N,P,K you'd be looking at under $2 while a pound of each with the 10-10-10 will cost you $4

Living in the middle of an agricultural state nitrogen should be relatively inexpensive? Or not.

Should be. A sure sign that a product is "over priced/marked-up" is if it is not offered in a 50# bag.

I can still get 10-10-10 for about $14 for a 35 pound bag.

You should be able to find a 50# bag for that price.

If you put in the leg work, you should be able to source anything you need in 50# bags at a good price. Find and contact: Feed and Seed stores (disregard the pet food type places, you want the places that sell feed for horses and other farm animals and are targeted to the large vegetable garden types), Sod Farms, Mom and Pop type Garden and Nurseries and also Farm Co-Ops. Call them and see if they sell retail to homeowners and if they carry the products you are looking for (Urea 46-0-0, Triple NPK, gypsum, etc.) in 50# bags. If not, ask them if they can recommend a local source.

What is a good choice for a balanced granular in bulk. Will a
balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 work for me, within the limitations?

That would depend on what nutrients and in what proportions your soil is deficient. "More" isn't necessarily benign. It's possible that excessive application may create conditions that would be detrimental, or at the least, a waste of money.

Just want to get value for the money spent, "buy what's IN the bag, not what's ON the bag."

Not sure of your meaning. What's on the bag (the ingredient label) better be what's in the bag.

Thanks for the advice folks, I knew I'd get good info here. Will look at a soil test, but will probably have to wait till next summer before it's not loaded up with all the fertilizer I'm applying this fall, i.e. get a representative sample.

Some years ago a lawn service guy recommended a lime application for the back yard, and that did seem to revitalize it but not sure how he knew that was necessary without a test. The lawn is just a standard residential suburbia lot, maybe 6000' square feet with about 4000' of lawn minus home and driveway, deck etc.

If I "roll my own" granular, these products will dispense OK from standard drop and rotary spreaders? I like the idea of buying in bulk and forgetting about it, and having it in hand as necessary.

I keep reading KBG in cool season areas likes 3 to 5 pounds N per thousand, but assuming two fall applications and one early spring, when are the other two pounds best applied? No irrigation, usually let the lawn go dormant in summer if it's dry. This year, was exceptional in terms of rainfall and stayed green pretty much throughout hoping to leverage that into a thicker lawn next year.

If I "roll my own" granular, these products will dispense OK from standard drop and rotary spreaders?

Yes they will

assuming two fall applications and one early spring, when are the other two pounds best applied?

A high input fertilizer program for northern areas would probably be 1 pound of N mid-August, mid-September, mid-October, possibly Mid-November and late May.

when are the other two pounds best applied?

In the "North" where Winter snow cover and /ground freeze occurs the schedule is:

1#N Memorial Day. Theory: Spring weather conditions that are conducive to disease have pretty much dissipated. N will be used by the turf to build carbohydrate reserves to help the turf better survive Summer disease/insects and Summer dormancy.

1#N late August/September 1. Theory: Help the turf come out of Summer dormancy and jump start the chlorophyll machinery.

1#N October 1. Theory: Keep the machine running. Soil temperatures are dropping and are conducive to root growth and rhizome production. This is the last N application while the turf is growing. Any N app between this one and the winterizer can cause continued topgrowth creating winter disease (snow mold) issues.

1 to 2#N date varies, applied once the turf stops growing or drastically slows. Theory: increased root mass, carbohydrate storage etc. Unfortunately, studies don't really support the theories. What is not disputed is that turf that has been winterized has much earlier Spring green up and the turf is healthier and thicker overall year to year than turf that is not winterized.

Ok. That's what I was thinking, sneak in another N application in October. Or even every couple weeks, with the fast release type of N once a month wouldn't be too often? My thinking here is bulk it up as much as possible in the roots as we go through the fall and into dormancy. Have ready a slow-release + pre-emergent crabgrass preventer on hand for spring. Some authorities say 1.5 pounds N per thousand in the fall for cooler climates is OK? Is it better to increase the amount, or the frequency?

Did two applications of N last fall and one this spring and noticed the lawn was a lot thicker and resiliant during the heat of the summer. I don't really enjoy mowing the lawn as such especially in the heat but it's MUCH more satisfying to mow green and lush healthy turf versus a thin weedy "lawn".

The goal here is to get a thick healthy turf that resists weeds and dry periods better. One thing that a lot of people make a mistake (myself included .. I knew better even) is lowering the cutting height with the idea of not having to mow as often. Doesn't work that way! Once the cutting height was raised to 3" and keeping a sharp blade the grass really responded well to that.

As for a soil test, the best lab in the country is Logan Labs in Ohio. Look in this forum for topics about soil tests to see what kind of replies you get from a Logan Labs test. Their $25 test is all you need. Post the results here and stand back for $250 worth of free advice. Once you know what the P and K values are for your soil, you can roll your own with confidence.

Again, I'd have to wait till next June or thereabouts before all the fall fertilizers would stop distorting the soil samples?

Exclude the top inch from the soil sample and send it in now.

Ah! Very clever. Thanks gents