Where are you located? Have you put down any fertilizer?

Oklahoma. I haven't at this point. I can by some from store if you recommend best kind. Trying to diy vs paying someone to spray.

It's Bermuda & this is the time of year for lower heights--You're good. Iron will darken it up for you

Generally for bermuda...

Water deeply and infrequently. More on this below but you're watering shallow and frequent. With bermuda you can go cold turkey changing over from frequent watering to infrequent. Read more below.

Mow at the mower's lowest setting almost all the time. Mow 2x or 3x per week depending on how fast the grass is growing. Most homeowner hybrid bermuda can be mowed as low as to 5/8 inch if your mower will go that low. For common bermuda that number is more like 3/4 inch. You have a hybrid sod.

Fertilize every month of the growing season with a fast release, high N (low to zero P and K) fertilizer. In the spring wait until you have mowed for the second time to apply. The roots need to be active for the first spring feeding.

When the lawn stops growing in the fall but before it turns brown, fertilize again with the same fertilizer. This is your winterizer to wake up the lawn earlier than your neighbors in the spring. Do not overseed with rye for the winter. Rye prolongs "winter" for the underlying bermuda and delays the bermuda green up for weeks up to months.

Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

Come on DC, you know that advice is 40 years old--Who the heck mows 3 times a week?! Nobody sane. Semi-annual scalping is plenty to keep the brown stems at bay & encourage horizontal growth. And Bermuda clippings are plentiful enough without monthly nitrogen, just recommend organics like you do on ALL the other grasses. It's like the one thing that translates to Bermuda from all the other grasses. Except the watering thing, that's always good advice!

The lower you mow the more frequently you need to mow to stay below the 1/3 rule. Also in the early spring, when the grass first awakens, it can come in pretty hot requiring more frequent mowing.

Mowing 2 to 3 times a week on bermuda will definitely give the best after cut appearance. From my experience when bermuda is growing aggressively, frequent mowing is required at most heights of cut to minimize scalping.

I would do the old cut & paste trick, but to summarize my past advice specific to Bermuda: This is not the advice we need to be giving beginners/new Bermuda owners. They can get 90% of the way to perfection with weekly mowing & organic fertilizers. When they want that last 10%, and they're ready for torture, then we should suggest the monthly N with 3x weekly mowing. Otherwise they just give up & wish they had St. Augustine. We've seen this movie.

TravelerOK stated they were worried they were mowing too much so I just wanted to reinforce the fact that more mowing on bermuda is good for it if you have the desire to mow that much but it certainly is not required to maintain a nice healthy stand of bermuda. Sorry I don't mean to be misleading.

Can't argue with that, the more you mow the more your Bermuda will love you

So throwing this out there, are those weed and fertilizer companies worth the money?

As a result of my research and thread advice, after my last mow, I let it water today and will let it go a week before watering again. I appreciate the help. I've noticed that is common to get the brown stems and I'm so worried I killed my grass so late in the year. From the help here, it should be fine but may be more work to maintain lol. I saw iron should help? Any suggested brands to diy from L or HD?

I went and got some Milorganic at Lowe's. My lawn's fate is in your hands. :-P

Tough to go wrong with that one!

So let me slip in one more question. Post emergent. I don't think it was treated ever and I'm seeing some weeds. Obviously, any search on the subject will explain post emergent does nothing for existing weeds and I'll have to spray those or remove by hand. Okay, so to treat it now before they go crazy, what's the best stuff to use for post emergent? Since I'm also late in the game, what calendar schedule do you use for Bermuda with fertilizer and pre/post emergent for next year?

Obviously, any search on the subject will explain post emergent does nothing for existing weeds

I'm confused. Did you mean pre-emergent?

Okay, maybe I'm confused too. Lol. I thought post is laid in October?

I put down my pre emergent every 3 months, but 4 months is more reasonable outside of tropical Houston climate. I spot spray with a post emergent every month. Your weed types will dictate your post emergent active ingredient. Show us some weeds & let's see what you have.

A few rules for post emergent on Bermuda--Avoid atrazine, avoid 2,4D & avoid Fluazifop. Those 3 will do a number on your Bermuda.

The most commonly recommended preM around here are prodiamine & dithiopyr(dimension). But anything you can get is better than nothing

If you put it down now you will control some of the winter weeds. Then you put down again in the spring to control the summer weeds.

+1 @ reeljake.

I started my preM routine August 1 (I think) and plan on doing it every 6 months. It only rains 3 months/yr where I live so that should cover me pretty well.

Second one is nutsedge, aka waterweed. Sulfentrazone is the active ingredient you want for that. Nothing else comes close. That second one I'm not sure about, but it looks pretty mean. If you can't get a positive ID on it, you may have to go with a 3-way like weed stop or weed free zone. The preM will help keep it away

Man, stuff gets pricy. Lol.

I use bonide Sedge Ender--$20 a bottle for sulfentrazone & prodiamine in one bottle. Forget the expensive stuff

I haven't added the pre emergent yet but I did add the iron stuff 5 days ago. I did water lightly that day to activate the pellets but turned off sprinkler system after that all week. I was watering twice a day on odd days. I can see an improvement and this weekend I should get rain so I'll see how it looks next week.

For fun fact, the green patch on bottom left is where my dog likes to water the lawn. Lol

Wow, so I laid out sedge ender 3 days ago. It's working. I did mix with Mark it blue. Lol. I just have to get a bigger sprayer tho. My one gallon pump action takes too long.

Any recommended pest control? I think my neighbors have roaches and I want to treat grass in addition to my house.

I know right?! Sedge Ender is the bees knees