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idabean2

rooting fall cuttings

The propogation forum hasn't had traffic in 3 weeks, so I;m starting here:

Stems broke off the perennial plumbago I planted today. Some have a few roots, some broke further up the stem. Having just made a half wheelbarrow full of gritty 1-1-1- my thoughts turn to rooting them.

I stuck them in the medium, watered them with very dilute MG (haven't gotten to purchase the better stuff yet) Completely forgot about rooting hormone.

If these root (after I've corrected mistakes you'll inform me of) how do I handle them over the winter? It's cold by mid Nov, and pretty well frozen by January, if not before. I have raised beds but no green house or cold frames.

Thanks!

Comments (8)

  • 10 years ago

    Doing more reading and think I found one mistake already: watering instead of misting. Do I need to fix this?

  • 10 years ago

    I never rooted plumbago, Ceratostigma plumbaginoides, but had it in previous garden for years.

    In general, it may be bit late for the cuttings to grow substantial root system before winter. It is also generally advised to stop fertilizing hardy perennials at this time of year - in order not to encourage too much of tender growth before winter hits. That doesn't mean they will absolutely not grow - but maybe you'll loose few? Is there a protected area that you could leave them in? Doesn't have to be a cold frame, maybe a shed or unheated garage?

  • 10 years ago

    I don't fertilize anything in the ground in late summer or autumn.

    To clarify, one shouldn't fertilize cuttings, either, when trying to start them in the fall.

    Yes, we have have a shed, but how is freezing in the shed different from freezing outdoors in the soil? The moisture in soil vs. gritty? The heave factor in soil? So much I don't know.

    And the cuttings were free, so to speak. If I got even 2 ...even 1 plant.....from the cuttings I'd be very pleased.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Marie

    You said ...'watered them with very dilute MG'... and I assumed that means diluted MG fertilizer? (I use MG 24.8.16 too).

    As for protected area, it helps a lot. Winds are eliminated. Temps are more even; thaw and freeze cycle is minimal if not eliminated, and that is a killer for plants. You won't get freezing rain on the pots. Perennials do not need warmth (it will be just a bit warmer in a shed, maybe couple of degrees, but still not too warm), but more even temps help a lot, especially with weaker/not-so-well established root system. IIRC, plumbago is rated hardy to z6 - it is often recommended to keep plants hardier by about 2 zones than they are rated to in containers. I don't follow that absolutely (but it gives me idea which plant should be more protected), but some protection definitely help. Even just keeping plants on north side of the house-structure helps to decrease thaw & freeze cycle (less heating up when there is sunshine and then freezing up when dark). Close to the house helps a lot too, as it creates bit of microclimate. I would definitely try, keeping them in area that doesn't get tons of sun/heat, and also mulch. Whatever you do, make sure drainage is very good - helps eliminating standing water that freezes.

    So if my plants, I would put them in shed. Not yet, but once it gets to freezing temps. Do not forget - they will need some water thru the winter too. Throwing a handful of snow on top now and then will keep just enough moisture.

  • 10 years ago

    I meant generally I don't fertilize my inground perennials, woodies etc, so MG is an exception here, based on my presumedly incorrect assumption about cuttings starting in gritty mix needing fert..

    If one doesn't fertilize even cuttings in fall, obviously it's straight h20 for moisture. However, are they misted, not watered?

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    the cuttings with a few roots will grow but you have to put them indoors by the bright side of the window with no direct sunlight, i have done this & it works. the other fresh cuttings with no sign of roots need a rooting hormone & also should be put indoors under bright light with heating pad under their pots. this needs a lot of patience, & as you know rooting fresh cutting has a 50-50 success rate. This is rooting in general & not your specific plant.

    i used sphagnum peat moss with perlite as growing medium & i mist.

  • 10 years ago

    Thanks....I think I don't have the patience for that right now. I found some small pots that are not terribly root-bound. I'm going plant them in my raised beds; water and mulch lightly with hay in Nov -Dec. Maybe they'll survive!

    I appreciate the advice, everyone. I'm just tired of gardening by this time of year. and want to finish up outdoors and leave the gardening there: out of doors!

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Marie

    That is probably good idea. Add more mulch after hard freeze to prevent heaving from thaw & freeze. Ones that survive, will be so much stronger, at least that's what I would think...Hardy plants appreciate cold periods, and the roots should grow for a while yet.

    Good luck...and if you remember, update the post next summer with # of the 'survivors' :)