Might as well just wait until spring, at least you can somewhat control what happens.

Overseeding rate is 4-5 pounds per thousand.

Thank you. What do you mean by somewhat control what happens?

Seeding=seeds are being planted on bare soil to create a new lawn. (This is sometimes called reseeding if you've completely killed the lawn off with RoundUp in a total renovation.)

Overseeding=Seeds are being planted amidst other plants to improve an existing lawn.

Now that we've got you straight on the terms, use the overseeding rate in the thin areas that need improvement. Use the seeding/reseeding rate in the bare areas.

I am aware of the difference. I was asking because the overseeing rate given on a bag of seed I have was much higher (double) what I had read on most sites and discussion boards.

What do you mean by somewhat control what happens?

Sorry I missed your post. Typically when you overseed there's a few steps you take to enhance establishment. You scalp to reduce competition from existing grass. You delay mowing until the new grass has a chance to mature a little. You hold off on herbicides. You apply starter fertilizer. You check your weather for the following week to see if there's going to be some help from above with watering. When you dormant seed, you relinquish all control. The seed is going to come up at some point, hopefully not before a week of drought. You don't know when to put down fertilizer, when it's ok to spray herbicide, when it's ok to mow.

Ultimately, there's no advantage to dormant seeding, only disadvantages. If you wait until spring, keep an eye on the weather for a week of rainy weather, prep the yard and seed, I think the overall results will be better.

If you have large bare spots, run over them twice with the spreader so they get 8-10 pounds per thousand rate. For seeding areas with 50% or more existing coverage, use the 4-5 pounds per thousand rate.

This makes a lot of sense. I understand exactly what you're saying. I guess the presumption is that with dormant seeding you are "always" going to get some kind of wet weather in the spring but there is no way of guaranteeing this. Thank you for the post.

@yardtractor1

How do you determine when it's ok to apply spring pre-emergent?

I don't and you are correct that dormant or Spring seeding are incompatible with most pre-m. (same thing would be true with using pre-m for poa A. and Fall seeding--how do you make that choice?) I chose to thicken the lawn over Crabgrass prevention which I would work on at a later time, I suppose. I have only used pre-emergent twice in almost 10 years. Once, the first Spring after initial establishment (belt and suspenders and because everyone else did it, lol) and once a couple of years later in late Summer due to a poa A. outbreak (didn't help and I cut the patch out and re-seeded.) A thick, healthy lawn and diligent spot spraying have proved effective for me---plus, I'm just lucky I guess.

same thing would be true with using pre-m for poa A. and Fall seeding--how do you make that choice?

Yep, it's a tough one, I'm going through that right now. I have to put down pre-m on 30 day old grass. I'm going to cut the prodiamine rate in half and mutter Hail Marys while spraying.

I've got Poa Annua coming up, too. Luckily, it's only in the backyard/dog yard and not my front renovation. Thinking of putting down Scotts Halts to stop more of it from coming up. :-P