There's some Bermuda hiding in there. Bermuda is an extremely hardy grass, but it requires more physical input than St. Aug. If you like St. Aug, you may get the opportunity to use it in shady areas where Bermuda will not grow. If that were my yard in North Texas (about to go dormant) I would start with a blanket spray of weed b gone to knock out the easy weeds. After that, figure out a pre emergent schedule & buy your supplies for the spring. If you have nutsedge & Crabgrass, you'll need to spot spray them so buy a sulfentrazone product like bonide Sedge ender or surge professional herbicide. Between weed b gone, preM & sulfentrazone, you'll be equipped to take out 99% of your weeds & prevent new ones.

Next steps, get a soil test, improve your soil life with organics & figure out your mowing schedule for next year. You can do it every day if you want, but every 7th day is about minimum. You will hear lots of advice to douse the lawn with a pound of nitrogen every month & that won't hurt anything but you really better like to mow if you do that. I run about half that rate. Do you have sprinklers?

Thanks reeljake! I sprayed the back with Weed-B-Gone the other day. I also used sulfentrazone on part of the front today -- this crabgrass is everywhere. Hope I can get on top of this soon ... thanks for the tips!

For pre-emergent stuff, I am really not sure what I am doing. My thought is to use a Gallery and a Dimension type product twice a year ... but that is just what I came up with after some brief research. What sort of things should I consider when deciding on a pre-emergent(s) schedule and products? I am in North Texas area.

I am wondering if I should dethatch and aerate this lawn. I have noticed a lot of thatch, but I do not yet know if this is normal for my lawn (due to my inexperience & new location). At some point I plan on renovating the front shrubs because they are quite bland, so dethatching and aerating would be another project for that list. Also I have noticed some pock-marks or pot-holes throughout the lawn that need some sort of attention or soil filling.

I do have a sprinkler system, but I am not sure how good of shape it is in. This is another area where I have little-to-no experience unfortunately. I have been thinking about hiring someone to come check it out and hopefully inform me ... but otherwise I will Google my way to knowledge in due time.

Thanks!

Skip the dethatcher, but an aeration might be a good thing in the spring--Can you post a pic of the thatch layer? If the yard has been mulch mowed it can build up quick on Bermuda. Spraying the yard with a surfactant like baby shampoo or jet dry will accomplish almost the same thing & soften the ground up nicely. In a perfect world, the worms & bacteria chew up the thatch before it can build up enough to cause problems.

Gallery & dimension are both strong products, although they are in the pricier side. Prodiamine works well too & is a bit cheaper overall. I dimension granules because they're available locally, but any preM is better than none. If you like to shop your local small business like I do, use whatever they carry regularly & twice a year should be plenty. If not, order your chosen product online for semi annual spray. I've never used a liquid preM, I always use granules but they both work.

I choose to have my sprinklers serviced by a local pro, but I've heard it's not too hard to do it yourself for cheaper.

You can get a general idea about your sprinklers by putting out plenty of cat food or tuna cans. Turn on the sprinkler and watch to see if they fill evenly or unevenly. While you're at it, time how long it takes to fill them. Generally I talk about watering deeply and infrequently. Deeply means 1 inch or about the time it takes to fill the tuna cans.

Do you want to have St Augustine? It's not hard to transition, but there are a few rules to follow. St Augustine will take over by itself if you mow it at the mower's highest setting every week or two. The tall and coarse bladed St Aug provides enough shade on the bermuda to kill it out. Before you do that, though, you might want to level it to get rid of the holes. It's easier to do with bare soil or grass you don't care about. If you want an instant St Aug lawn you can sod the entire lawn with St Aug any time sod is available. If you want to save a ton of money and you have the patience to let the St Aug spread by itself and take over, then as reeljake mentioned, you can put down a couple of pieces in the shade and let them grow out from there. St Aug can travel as much as 15 feet per year.

Hi All! Bringing back up my old thread here, since Spring is upon us and I am looking to tackle some lawn items soon.

I hit up the back yard with Weed B Gone yesterday. I plan to treat the front as well soon, but I am worried about my two young live oak trees & our shrubs and rose bushes out there. Should I spot treat only, or am I good to spray the lawn areas away from the trees and shrubs with Weed B Gone? The lawn is pretty packed with weeds.

Also, I am not sure what my best bet is regarding this crabgrass removal & applying new grass seed versus pre-emergent herbicide. I have several large patches of dead crabgrass (spot sprayed last Fall) that are going to leave bare dirt patches all over the place. I know I can't apply new seed and use pre-em, so which should I do first at this point? The dead crabgrass needs to go first either way, I think, and I am leaning towards applying new seed instead of pre-em (or doing pre-em later on, but not sure how long I need to wait).

I plan to have the sprinklers professionally looked at as soon as I can get someone to come out here.

Thanks in advance for any help with my follow up questions!