If you are set on keeping a separate tub and small separate shower the second is much more accessible. In your first plan you would have less than two feet to squeeze through to fill tub and to get in and out of with out touching the toilet.

To be honest I might consider losing the tub if there is another one in the house and go with a nicely sized walk in shower. Even a deep four ft tub is very small for adults. Japanese tubs work well for very petite people but I as a 5'7" woman am never comfortable in them and they are a bear as I age to climb in and out of especially with much less than 3 ft. If it is your only tub in the house I understand wanting to keep one.

You'll need to account for at least a 5" finished pony wall at the toilet. The vanity at the door is an issue when entering. You could do an 18" deep vanity to clear door casing trim. Or you could do a smaller vanity with a larger sink, so that you have clearance at the door. Do you have a 36" entry for a reason? If it's for w/c access, the ready of the room is too tight for w/c. You might narrow that entry to make more ease at vanity. How high is the window? It will need special treatment do to being in a wet area.

Thanks for comments. I was planning to do frosted glass partition to separate sink from toilet.

Door doesn't have to be 36, don't need wheelchair access but thinking to future.

I thought of one more layout- makes use of back wall with shower and tub perpendicular allowing for up to 68 inch tub.

If you have room on your electrical panel to add in a 240 heater, we use something called a "cove heater" for supplemental heat in some rooms. It is radiant electric heat that comes from metal electric panel strips high on the wall. It is controlled with a thermostat in the room. It feels like sunshine. http://www.radiantsystemsinc.com/

Hi Roarah-thanks for your input. planning to do radiant only hopefully though only 8 foot ceilings. We used it in our kitchen and it is finally nice and toasty. I am leaning towards my newest plan which seems to maximize space.

I prefer your third plan too. Good luck! I live in New England but would not have passed inspection without a proper heat source in addition to my radiant floors. The inspector and electrician did a heat loss exchange formula....room volume times floor space I think. Remember heat will not raise under the tub, vanity and toilet so you have less than 8.5 x8.5 floor and more like 4x4...

In your latest plan, your toilet can't be enclosed in a 36x36 space. (Not sure if that is what you were envisioning). A toilet needs a certain amount of space in front of it for room to stand.

What did you decide on doing?