thanks. it's pretty much on every piece of glass tile that was cut. I have a feeling they didn't use the right blade too. ridiculous. I'll have to live with it.

Just curious, when he switched to the new blade did the issue happen in a few random spots? Now that I think of it, he said he used a glass tile blade but he had to throw away MANY pieces of tile because of bad cuts. Literally filled a 5 gallon bucket with badly cut tile just to replace 10 pieces of tile.

He initially tried several different blades and had problems. Then that night I went and actually bought a blade that was labeled for glass tiles to see if it made a difference, put it in my $60 no-name tile saw, and immediately had success. It was more expensive than a standard tile blade, and didn't look that much different, but the results sure were.

In the morning, I had him put it in his very expensive saw, and the breakage and major chipping problems magically ended. I don't remember any noticeable waste after that...maybe just the occasional broken piece like with any tile. There was still a little chipping with some pieces on the back side, but that was about it. I was just surprised that this highly rated, and obviously skilled, tile setter didn't have a blade like this.

The builder agreed to redo it again! I hope they get it right. I do appreciate that they do try to make us happy. We saw the same tile laid in the exact pattern in another house there cuts were significantly better. I would say 99% perfect so it's not like I am crazy here.

Good luck! Different tile guy (or at least different tile blade)?

;-)

As you try again A Few tricks w/Glass.

Many times a chippy cut can be the saw and blade.... OK operator error too.

I.E. unblanced saw, shot brushs/bearings, the table not squared up and moving smoothly, vibrations coming thru the saw/stand an unbalanced or warped blade et etc. etc..

few cut tricks...

1. Make several passes at a cut . You do this by adjusting the plunge of the saw/cut depth. Rather than making one forced pass. sometimes ill cut thru both sides and end in the middle..

2. Use a speed sqaure and a razor knive to first Score the coated backside side of the tile along the cut line. This will limit blowout of the coating @ the cut break line

3.Contrary to popular belief Thick kerf Glass blades require removing more material and actually are meant to slow down the cut (notice its really hard to push glass thru the saw.) For me I have found my best result to be with a segmented porclelain thin kerf blade but YOU MUST GO extra extra slow and keep the water flowing on cut.

4. Use variable speed grinder and polish pads to finish the visible edge of the chippy cuts.

Theres more to it, sometimes scoring certain sized glass with a snap cutter is the key...-best of luck this time