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Fish pond winter considerations and protection thoughts.

9 years ago

Water, gravity and nature in one's yard interact in some amazing and often creative ways. Anyone who has installed and thus been owned by a pond knows exactly what I mean.

It be great to learn about challenges and learnings of others before I get to make all the mistakes myself.

Some of my learnings and thoughts for pond operation, protection and fauna and flora interactions are below.

How about yours?

_______

How water temperature regulation works in winter

Our pond maintains min 40 F fairly uniform temperarure due to 50-55 F ground temp at depth, the most dense water being 40 F, and waterfall water mixing. Natural convection from 41-55 F bottom water rising and top 40 F surface cold weather water falling would likely have the same effect.

My fish all hover in winter 2' below the surface in the pond center. This likely is the warmest and least raccoon susceptible position.

Avoiding disasters

An empty pond can not protect temperature sensitive plants or animals. Seek leakage area (notes) below. If sufficiently exposed, pond hoses might freeze and burst or plug. Faster water flow helps, burying them in the ground helps more, and electric hesting tape helps the most until you power goes out. So bury hoses and expose as little as possible.

Waterfalls sound great and aerate water to keep things happy. But unless you live on a hillside by a stream, you must pump water. If a pond hose breaks, it pumps the pond down to the water intake level. This knowlwdge was gained from personal experience one surprizing 18 F winter morning. I found the pond with only 5" of water in the bottom, and 2" of ice, right over the fish backfins! Lucky the fish still fit. A few more hours and they would have been part of an ice bottom sculpture. We lost none. Fish are amazing!

Thus, consider a simple electric sump pump switch to shut off the pump should the water level to fall below a critical level. And even though it gives less perfect total pond water mixing, I tend to put the lowest pump intake pipe a foot above the pond bottom. I also place some drainage pipe habitat in the pond bottom so that fish can escape animals should the pond drain to that deep. This is because we are gifted with raccoons.

Leakage Repair

Most obvious, if your pond is water proofed with a plastic liner don't poke a hole in it. If for instance pesky a clawed animal assists you with this on a side wall, partially drain the pond and use a commercial quality patch weld kit. Duct tape doesn't succeed at everything, no matter how tempting it seems.

If the hole is in the bottom try bentonite clay powder to seal it. Also hide sticks from kids and/or don't wear spiked golf shoes next time while servicing the pond. Just walk carefully.

If pond liner leaks again do as above and consider one of the automatic animal/human control options outlined below.

If your pond has a concrete bottom, consider cement pond sealing compounds or bentonite, as appropriate. However, DO NOT not document the leak yet. First buy insurance ASAP. Then monitor for sinkhole development, even if a sinkhole is not obvious yet

Flora Fauna Safety Protection Systems

Pond water in spring summer sponteously forms biting mosquitos. It is not if but is when. Fish or tapoles are needed to eat them. Fish eat tapoles. Really big frogs eat fish (do not plant bullfrogs). Frogs of any size sing at times. Make sure you like frog songs (we do). A swarm of even little frogs can deafening at times. Frog and fish also attract some neat mammals and birds.

Furing the summer, Raccoon bandits visit our pond almost nightly and late in the summer you might get to see a family. If up at 4 AM, or at least before it gets light, shine a flashlight out towards the pond zone. Those glowing yellow green eyes staring back at you, on the ground or in trees, that are too wide set for a house cat, are usually raccoons.

If they are reddish or not otherwise raccoons there are some feline possibilities. If they look really big and further off the ground reminding you of a tiger, keep your cool. They are almost always deer. Although we live not that distant to Cougar and Tiger mountain. The first settlers didn't know what to call our big northern cats. Lucky we have internet now. Take home lesson is that a pond water, flora and fauna can gift you nee experiences. Lucky we have no big water reptiles here.

In contrast to Racoons, Giant Blue Herons have not yet found our pond. Rather than invest prolonged hours patrolling, be more cleverm. There's maybe a limited chance that you might outsmart the animal. Perhaps a protective system may be warranted?

Rather than a fully loaded dog house, which on the positive side gifts fertilizer, I've been eyeing those motion detector rainbird style sprinkler systems*. This was first considered to combat our pesky racoons toppling over and tearing up pond and marginal plants. Herons however would be THE decision tipping point to get more serious about it.

Guess I sort of earned it. I test stocked our newly dug and lined pond with a dozen small "feeder fish" (Comets) plus a couple Shubunkin Koi. We incessantly pointed at Comets to gain the most striking markings possible. Netting little Koi-like want-to-bes at 49 cents each about drove the PetSmart girl crazy. We made "money" growing the Comets to the 1.99 to 3.99 size by winter! One Shubunkin seriously is already good frying pan sized. But I've not had the heart to do it. And besides she's just under one pound in weight. So, I'd lose $12.99+ value. Fresh salmon here is often sold than less than that per pound. If it goes higher, fish beware.

All 2016 fish have grown so fast that I might just stick with those Comets, unless a Heron finds us. Wouldn't it be payback to watch a big Heron drooling over, but not able to lift, a big Koi? With Koi we'd hope that we don't attract Eagles. They might be tough on free range neighborhood cats.

* Hum, rather than noisy sprinkler system, I could try a stealthy little wire ringing the pond, electric fence shocker armed. But I like seeing the neighors' cat drinking from the pond, staring deeper than clawed arm depth, dreaming of a fish dinner. No matter how much they try, no cat can drink down our pond fast enough before it rains again. Maybe fishy water just tastes better?

If approching a well wired electrified pond zone I might forget the e-wire and fall into the pond while wriggling around uncontrollably. I should tether my defense tactic to re-bar so that the wire doesn't fall into the water with me. Best to protect that fish investment.

However, an electronic sprinkler or e-wire system costs $50 - 100 to install. Unless I find a used one on Craigslist that failed in the task already. But would I then want it**?

** Plan B Alternative Consideration

Decision factors: (A) Can we attract a Bobcat? (B) Do they swim for fish? (C) Do they eat smaller cats? (D) Do they tend to avoid human contact?

I for sure need (A) and at least one other of these questions answered "yes" to even consider Plan B. At least limited performance standards need to be met!

If Plan B is a "no go" then please answer, as in Plan B above, but with Plan C or Plan D optiobs using alternative "active ingredient" being either "Lynx" or "Cougar / Puma / Mountain Lion (latter name depending on where you live or personal preference). For clarity sake, "Cougar" is not the leopard spotted animal preying after dark, within human drinking establishments, even if they appear as effective.

Finally, if it you do not know it, is over 80 lbs, furry, and drinking out of your pond, consider avoiding contact, no matter how neat the animal looks. I'm just saying.

Comments (4)

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I like to temp fate and put in tropicals and semitropicals around pond areas to benefit from the ground warmth. I also found a guy that does amazing things in z5 Indiana that some folks need to try for up to z9.

    Houzz Link: "Use tricks to zone shift and cheat fate to grow semi tropicals!"

    http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4417804/use-tricks-to-zone-shiftb-and-cheat-fate-to-grow-semi-tropicals?n=1

    A Canna 'Tropicanna' originally summer tested in our yard for adequate light response in this spot was later planted here by the pond in that position to help ensure winter survival (old UK trick).

    I don't want to lose another!

    This pond has a wet bog shelf installed for year long marginal plant testing. Once I decide what works best, the liner edge can be lifted, the soil dug down further, and liner dropped back for planters hide better.

    The first 5' of the 15' long pond has 3 steps on each side to allow water plant depth adjustments. A 2.5' wide full depth trench is in the step center area to scare give shallow water fish and frogs quick access to deep water escape. It also gives better filtering across the length of the pond (water intake at far end opposite the falls. And it gives more brackish amphibian habitat in the step shelf shallows. Every bottom level adjustment is at shear 90 degree abrupt drops to help raccoons loose confidence in venturing into the water.

    Important: pond is at 3' depth, which is not raccoon friendly, can support Koi, and shallow enough to keep my head out of the water should i need to retrieve a raccoon adjusted plant or tool from the pond bottom.

  • 9 years ago

    Fish pond ~15'x 8.5' x 3' with about 2,000 gallons water.

    Has dual wine barrel falls with spill spout liners and side flow river rock area both on separate pumps at @1,000 gal/hr each. Against far center back wall is a ring skimmer with sump pump switch water level protection. There is a little seperate water lily pond installed by the front side and fishless amphibian tadpole support pond the back step bog area.

    Giant Gunnera and attached Japanese Iris wet bogs and Canna moist zones have just been installed nearby to help support mature frog foraging. Nearby yard area now has extensive hydrangea and semitropical plantings to further supply shade and forage habitat.

    Just have to finish installing things.

    Compost helps! It's never over rated.

  • 9 years ago

    Wow! First I was amused, then amazed! Lovely pond and gardens!

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thx kindly unfortunately for me it takes a lot of words at times to really explain well.

    Best then be entertaining. Was it worth it?

    ________

    Current 2017 Winter Spring yard plan

    We currently have an nice range of hydrangea getting underway in the yard as well as some being installed this winter through esrly spring.

    This is Hydrangea macrophylla 'Mathlida Gutches' with acid pH soil with Aluminum Sulphate added a few years prior. Electric Blue

    Division of same bush in new yard in the process of the root ball adapting to the new pH enviroment. Obviously there are local pH range variations working here. Over time it will stabilize to purple or pink, unless I act on it. Liking the effect I added dolomite lime to one side of tbe bush and Aluminum Sulphate to the other.

    Summer Yard Plan

    I'm going to add some serious Alocasia, Colocasia, Banana, Giant Canna and Giant Ferns this year. Many are hardy here or might be hardy enough and possibly survive a wet long winter too. That is if tricked just right. Others will need to be over wintered inside, until I have expanded enough stock to test for more effective outdoor methods. We have sodium vapor and T55 lights on timer and gas heater installed in an insulated side shed also an unheated 40 F garage holding Brugmansia planters, now in suspended animation.

    To have success as a zone shifter, one has to know why a (semi)tropical didn't work outside. Was the actual cause cold hardiness, drainage, rotting, or slugs or other pests eating roots and bulbs? Mulch type, tarping, soil amendments, correct bottom drainage, and/or correct pH* could make a huge difference on meeting challenges. I'm getting a little electronic temperature datalogger to help save me on making repeated measurement trips.

    For a highly desired buried rootstock survival outdoors, one could even lay a 20watt seedling heatmat over the crown area, dry mulch, and cover with a waterproof tarp (e.g., for a Colocasia 'Thailand Giant'). With our 50-ish F ground temp below and an 85 F small zone above, it just might work. 100 watts / winter for protecting 5 prize tropical plants zone would be much more cost effective, and last longer, than a tropical vacation.

    * pH could effect root health or function, fertilzer loading or type needed and possibly microbe aggression or pest range too. I've used so much commercial compost in my new yard that I better watch plants here liking either an acid pH or drier soil. I know this for sure because most of my purple to blue hydrangeas shifted to pink and red and I can also see that my ammended soil for hydrangeas stay more moist than before. Soil ammendments found here to shift hydrangea color and/or a pH test kit can teach me how to pH adjust here..

    My soil is too dry, clay filled and rocky in fact to not add compost. My yard is not hardpan, having a solid clay layer, but is more of a glacial till. It has small to large rocks stopping most digging tools quickly. Having not pre-tested and already moved here, I must use an iron rod for initial digging. Then I screen out excess rock and add compost back, 20 to 50%, to make decent soil.

    I dig "root pits" and "bog pits (plastic lined) mixing the ammendents needed with my screened soil as I go. i dig a pit as wide and deep enough needed to support an adult plant size. My soil structure thus permits me to ammend, on a plant by plant basis, for that plants needs.

    For hydrangea, I can seperately adjust pH differently for side by side plants to display different colors. I can even try making a single hydrangea a bicolor red/blue or a have a mixed blue, pink and purple color range. The range is created with focused line addition of ammendmenrs lightly mixed into the soil, above the root ball. If concerned about eventual pH blending yielding a single color try a below ground water drip diverter(s) such as plastic edging strip(s). These effects work only becuase plants roots feed more verically than horizontally through the plant with major root zones feeding primarily above.

    Yes plants are more simply wired than our brain body connections. Or gardening success would be likely be thought to due to insightful plant psychology rather than plant physiology ... except for that Elf riden Butterfly Orchid that I'm growing under lights. Yes 'Hildos' rides again!

    Psychopsis Mendenhall 'Hildos' FCC/AOS

    Hildos' 'Papilio' clan was first seen by Westerners waving to them in the wind, while clinging onto trees in Trinidad and Tobago. Hildos' direct ancestor was promptly captured and brought back to England in the early1800s, where the seated Elf Rider likely magically initiated the craze for orchid collecting in Europe. An award was granted the butterfly in 1825. Interestingly, most viewing this stunning sight still only have seen the Butterfly and not Jockey rider.

    With plants you sometimes need to look closer to truely understand them.

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