A UL listing, or your homeowner's insurance and local inspector will not accept it.

Okay, this is good to know! But are you saying that even if I make a dedicated line straight from my breaker box that is 220V, it's still won't be a good situation for the cooktop?

The voltage isn't the issue. The Hertz (frequency) is the problem. Europe uses a 50hz system (the Alternating current cycles back and forth 50 times per second = 50hz). The N.American frequency is 60hz (60 cycles per second).

Unless you build a conversion substation in your garage to convert 60hz to 50hz, your unit will not last the 25-30 years expected of a Bosche appliance.

About 10 years ago, when induction was being introduced into the US for the second time, a bunch of GW people did some self importing from Europe because they couldn't wait for the bells and whistles to be available here at a less than exorbitant price. They had to jump through hoops with their local code inspectors (many were denied approval) and insurance companies (many were denied coverage because of that lack of UL listing) and several just gave up and had expensive paperweights. Some persisted, or did the ''switch after inspection'' route and did install them.

The cooktops would apparently work just fine on US current, but there are very few folks that have 10 year old DeDetrich etc. induction cookbooks left. When they died, they were left with non standard holes in their counters that would not fit American sized appliances, and had a big puzzle as to how to replace.

Now that induction has come down so much in price, there is zero reason to even think about going that route.

Even if frequency was the same, 240V power here is created by using two out-of-phase live wires of 120V (nominal) each (or 220V out of 2x110V) - Not a single wire of 240V. That's why 240V circuit breakers are always paired. I know some people who have wired 240V kettles (one live wire going into each of the live and neutrals) but something that uses electricity for purposes other than just creating heat won't work so well.

We continue to use our 12+ year old imported HOB today, but the unit is know for having the two medium size burners fail and ours have failed as well. They have parts for the other burners, but have run out of the medium size replacement parts. I didn't know that the cutout size is an odd size, it measures 36" in width. Was thinking about replacing it but haven't found a comparable unit. The controls and Boost mode on this is really nice. The controls on the US available HOB's seem cluttered and unintuitive in comparison.

Built-in electric cooktops in the US typically are wired for 220V-240V instead of the standard 115V-120V provided to wall outlets. Unless the change from 50Hz to 60Hz causes an issue with a built-in timer, there should be no problems (maybe its timer will run faster if it depends on 50Hz to advance the timer and doesn't have a quartz clock. Does the cooktop even have a timer?).

No voltage converters are required since the voltage is the same. Of course, this cooktop cannot be plugged into a standard 120V wall outlet that is used for standard appliances in the US, but this is not a standard appliance and US houses are typically wired for the availability of 220V.for special appliances like stoves, clothes dryers, some air conditioners and well pumps.