any idea.. when planted .. was it severely pot bound.. any root surgery done ... etc ...

that might be my next concern ... and if you would dig it anyway.. maybe you should bare root it.. and find out ...

but timing would be imperative ... at a min.. reduce soil until you can schedule planting time ...

in your zone ... it appears you have plenty of time.. before the heat of summer in july ... so maybe do it when the soil thaws .... not sure i would do it in some mid winter that ....

i presume you know you did not buy a dwarf annual growth rate plant.. but there is a possibility you got one ... but i dont see much down side.. if its supposed to be a normal growing one... and yours is only getting 2 inches ... what is there to slow down ...

lets see what others think ...

ken

How well draining is the soil? If it is well draining sand you could dig out a well around the tree, build a little wall around it, and just clear out debris that build up there every so often. Unfortunately, if soil is clay or you are at the bottom of a slope the well would fill up with water.

Otherwise just raise the tree. Not sure replacing three inches of soil with three inches of mulch would be better.

It's a woods tree. Planted Oct. 2012. 4 summers in the ground. It put on 2" summer before last and now only 1-1/2" last summer. My other spruce that were planted the next spring (2013) are putting on 6" to 12" that last few summers.

There appears to be one adventitious root, 1/8" dia., growing out the side of the trunk about 3" down. I couldn't dig any deeper because of frost but suspect the flare is not much further down.

Sandy loam soil. The soil may be completely thawed today as it was partially thawed yesterday and it is near 60d today with some rain. Snow is practically gone.

I just thought that maybe exposing the flare without disturbing the roots would give the tree a head start in regrowth over cutting the roots. And that in several years, you wouldn't hardly notice the excavation once the trunk enlarges. I would leave the area several inches around the tree free from mulch but take the sod off in a 30" circle and use mulch.

ETA: Otherwise, if no advantage, I'll just dig the tree, raise it up and put some dirt under it and be done.

"I'd dig the tree and replant at proper depth"

The more I think about it, that's probably the best overall solution.

When I came home tonight I found the dirt thawed down to around 6"+. But it was still too hard to dig deep enough to get the tree out. So this job will have to wait for another couple of weeks as the weather is forecasting another 10 to 14 days of freezing temps. 65d today.

I was able to dig my finger in around the trunk and found the root flare. It was about an inch further down past the adventitious root. So about 4"+ total in the ground too deep. Good news is there are at least 3 nice lateral roots going out almost perfectly in a radial pattern.

I can't say exactly what happened but this place took a direct hit from an F4 tornado, before I moved here and there was some big trees uprooted in the yard. Some holes were filled by the owners so they could keep the grass cut but there could've been air pockets or 'sinkhole' sort of thing from the roots or something. I just know that I never would've planted a tree that deep. never. Glad it finally dawned on me to check for root flare.

You can see the adventitious root and where the dirt was in the next pic, I would suppose that this root should be cut off as it will be too high after the tree is raised. And no, I didn't prune this tree up. The rabbits did that for me a year ago. Rabbits usually don't bother spruce but this was a young dumb one and he clipped branches off and let them lay. I removed the sod hoping the dirt would thaw today.

This tree was a real scrub to start with so it actually has added some branching and has filled in some at the top. Wife called it my Charlie Brown tree. :|

I've used a couple of five tined pitch forks to raise a small tree a couple of inches. Pictures would be easier to demonstrate, but you simply push the tines into the ground about a foot out from the tree (give or take) and opposite of each other. You then gently lift by slowly pushing down on both handles. It's best to have one person on each pitch fork so you can precisely lift from both sides in a controlled manner. Once you've lifted to the desired height, I spray a gentle stream of water over the soil to wash it under the plant. I've also used a modified version of this technique to straighten a tree that was planted crooked.

Just a follow up on this tree:

The ground was still a froze after a foot down and I didn't want to rip any roots so I dug a narrow trench around the root ball and poured warm water in the trench. The tree came out but with a chunk of frozen dirt attached so I did have to snip a couple of vertical roots that went into the ice so it would let go of the tree.

Most of the roots were in the top 10" of soil and most of that dirt fell off when I was working with it so I did what ken suggested and bare rooted it.

So here it is all ready for a layer of mulch (You can see how deep it was by the dirt on the trunk). The root flare is exactly level with the surrounding ground but I really put some weight on the soil that the trunk butt was sitting on so it won't settle any more. I figure a spruce will send out branches and cover this area after a while anyways, so the mulch ring will be just to get it off to a good start.

I still have the 3 deciduous trees to do yet and one Burr Oak that I decided to move to another part of the yard and a whole lot of sod removal for mulching several more of my trees but it will have to wait for warmer weather in a week or three.

Thanks for the advice. It's a good feeling getting problems like this solved and looking forward to seeing positive results of the work done. :)

@ken_adrian, Do you stake your bare root plantings?

Bill, I'd think you want to stake a bare-rooted tree like that, unless it was very small.

ok then. this hopefully will stabilize the tree during our 40 mph gusty conditions. The forecast calls for light & variable winds for the next week or so. Will the roots start in growing almost immediately? How soon before the tree will stand by itself? Our high temps will be low 50's with lows in the low 30's for another week to ten days.

"@ken_adrian, Do you stake your bare root plantings?"

Unless it is unstable (going to blow over in the wind or fall in the event of a storm) there is no reason to stake it.

==>>>https://plumtreetrading.blogspot.com/2016/10/to-stake-or-not-to-stake.html

But Logan, mine is a bare root with a full crown as you would expect with an evergreen spruce. Don't you think mine would be a prime candidate for wind throw with my frequent 40mph wind gust?

I suppose so. I don't often get 40mph wind ;). Right now the only plants I currently have staked are some rose and coleus standards, because they have almost no roots.

'I suppose so. I don't often get 40mph wind'

That's why it's important to read thoroughly what the poster is saying before you give information that pertains only to your personal location and experience.

Thanks anyways.

I wouldn't take the supports off for a couple yrs myself.

The
2 stakes give good support in the presumably prevailing wind direction, but
much less support across it, should the wind change direction. A cross-wise 4
stakes support may be better?

"I wouldn't take the supports off for a couple yrs myself."

That will weaken the tree and put it at a greater risk of breaking under snow or being damaged during other extreme weather.

"The 2 stakes give good support in the presumably prevailing wind direction, but much less support across it, should the wind change direction. A cross-wise 4 stakes support may be better?"

The material is under some tension with elasticity (nylon stocking), so it should help for forces off the side too. But I did add a third upright to help with the ferocious SW winds we frequently get. NE wind is rare here and then there's the bushes.

I should have updated my picture. :-)

Oh C'mon Logan, I don't dare remove the stakes until the tree has re-established itself, which can take up to two years for roots to do that.

Picture update:

Much better, Bill :-)

edlincoln said: How well draining is the soil? If it is well draining sand you could dig out a well around the tree, build a little wall around it, and just clear out debris that build up there every so often.

Turns out I have two other spruce, brought into the yard 3 seasons ago, that were doing fairly well but I felt they were slightly in too deep and maybe would respond to a bit of raising and mulching. When I removed the >1" of sod so I could mulch, they were about the right level to the ground and otherwise healthy looking, so instead of disturbing the roots, I used eds' suggestion. Both trees look a little sparse because I snipped a double leader from them both last summer but hoping they fill in this year.

The little tree in the first pic was planted deeper then I thought.

Is it sandy soil? I'd drill holes in that plastic, or cut a vertical slit. You want to make sure that doesn't fill up with water after a rain...or drains fast if it does.

'The little tree in the first pic was planted deeper than I thought'

Me too, I was shocked, I'm usually more careful than that.

Yes, this soil drains well though I haven't done a mason jar test, all my research leads me to believe I have around 70% sand, 7% clay and 23% silt & other.

I had to slit the plastic to get it on the trees (coffee container) then one pop rivet it together, so it won't hold water, just gets a leaf or two in there after windy days.

The two trees are putting on a good 6" a year but not as good as the one in the front yard which has put on 28" over the last two seasons. But then they were trying to grow 2 trees on the same stump. I'll report back this fall and see what happens.

Well, looks like I didn't kill it! :-)

Bet you can't tell I got the day off? lol

Another update:

The two spruce with the soil sleeves are doing well. If nothing else, the mulch is making my watering more efficient. I had cut twin trunks from both of these and with the new growth, you can't hardly tell anymore. :)

Update:

The two spruce with the green plastic 'rings' grew about an inch more than they did the previous year, probably 10" or so. So they may not have been too deep as to inhibit their growth at all. They're getting to be nice, full looking specimens of spruce.

The little spruce didn't do too much on top of the ground (2") but looks healthy and will take the stakes off early next summer.

The little spruce is making male cones like crazy. I don't know if it means the tree is healthy now that the root crown is at grade level or if it means the tree is ready to die and is insuring the survival of the species by coning heavily. I've heard trees will do that but have no idea if there's any scientific basis for it?

The male cones turned out to be female cones. Concesus, stress from transplanting and other conditions can cause trees to cone profusely.

The other two trees that I dug down and put the green plastic well at the base? One put on 18" so far and the other, almost as much. Was it exposing the root flare that cause this growth explosion? I'm thinking yes, in part. Why else would trees go from putting on 8 to 10 inches a year to 18"+? But maybe they just been in long enough to become established. I've seen bigger, more established trees around here put on less growth.

Here's the best one:

Maine leader closeup:

But maybe they just been in long enough to become established. I've seen
bigger, more established trees around here put on less growth.

==>>> i would bet on establishing a root mass sufficient for the size of the tree ... causing it to return to the more standard growth rate ...

its hard to tell the annual growth.. on a leader that is 20.. 30.. 50 feet up a large tree .... no scale up there ... unless of course.. you go all squirrel on it.. and climb up there some how ...

as to exposing the root flare .... removing a stress is always good .... i dont know if such is directly related to explosive growth ... i think i would tend to lean toward the above.. a doubling or tripling of the root mass ...they were growing all year long... but for ground freeze ... i think we sometimes forget.. on a plant that has but one spring flush ... that that doesnt mean the roots only grow for a short time in spring ...

its easy to overlook things you cant see.. as major reasons for success ...

also .. i recall many times... and i dont know if its a fact here ... that the second year out of a hyper-fertilized pot ... the small conifer puts out explosive growth ... and then.. as it accustoms itself to my sand.. it slows back down to more of a norm ....

ken

The two with the green plastic, weren't in all that deep, only 1-1/2" or so and with sandy soil, probably weren't being suffocated, so I think you're right, it was removing a minor stress but nothing that would cause great changes in growth rates.

Also, the rains have come just right this spring, when we thought it was getting dry, it would rain, with the last one, about a week ago, being in the 3" category. Good soaking rains at the right time go a long way for this kind of growth.

I forgot to mention, no fert was applied to these.

Just thought I'd post the progress on these. Nice to have good weather with everything flourishing. We had a pretty good growth year last year also, so the trees haven't known much stress lately, contributing to good growth this year.

We still have our normally dry July and August coming but noticed these more established trees are getting less sensitive to dry spells. Then there's always the garden hose. :-)

Speaking of root mass. Here's an updated picture of the one I bare rooted. It didn't put on any more growth than the last several years but the growth appears healthier. The needles are longer by 50%. It should grow faster next year as roots increase and clearly progress made on the health of the tree. Cones are numerous. Wonder if they'll be viable seeds in them?

Looks like the one with the green ring at the base will top out at 22"L.

Funniest leader I've seen to date with the extra new growth sticking out the sides near the top instead of just winter buds.

Update:

The little Picea glauca that was raised in the ground is putting out nice growth this season. I'd say 3 or 4 times what is has each season in the past, (planted in 2013).

The Picea g. with what ended up to be 24" of leader growth, sent out new branchlets on that leader and is now over 7 ft. tall.

Update:

The smaller Picea that was buried too deeply in the soil is growing good but a very dry spring and early summer kept it from achieving it's full potential but the form is improving each year and it doesn't hardly wiggle in strong winds.

Not the greatest picture and taken a month ago, the two P. glauca that had the green wells around them have grown very well and are way taller than me (8 ft.?). Had a borer snip a 2 ft leader off the one on the left but fortunately, another shorter (12") branch took over almost immediately.

.

You’ve got a talent for growing trees, Bill!

7-5-23:

This pertains to the little spruce mentioned first in the last update above, 2 years ago.

It was very hot and dry but I thought I'd leave it be, after all it was established and a native tree at that.

Sometime in 2021 the top leader died and there was some partial damage to a few of the branches near the top and a few branch tips. So I pruned a bit and tied up the best and nearest side branch in start of 2022.

It's coming back this season, but it was a setback for obvious reasons.

I've watered this 3 times already this season. ;-)

The stick is coming off this season.

Picea Glauca: 6-12-23.

////

Aw, it has become such a pretty little tree! I am so glad and hope you have continued success from here on out..

Just want to say how much I enjoyed reading this 8 year saga!