Software
Houzz Logo Print
hudson___wy

Tomatoes and Sulfur

9 years ago

I ran across this article about supplementing Tomato plants with Sulfur. We have been supplementing our tomato plants with sulfur for several years and have found the information in this article to be true. Maybe sulfur is why our tomatoes have such great taste!! What are your thoughts - experiences?

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/information-putting-sulfur-tomato-plants-29024.html

Growing your own juicy, red tomatoes is relatively easy. But when leaves yellow or the fruit fails to mature, sulfur can help, both in the soil and dusted on leaves as a fungicide and insecticide. Sulfur and copper are the only fungicides allowed for use on certified organic produce.

Sulfur can be used in the soil or on the tomato plant to help develop tasty tomatoes.

Soil Nutrient

While sulfur is only needed in small amounts as a micronutrient to grow tomatoes, sandy soils can be deficient in sulfur. Sulfur helps form organic compounds that help impart flavor to tomatoes. Tomato plants with yellow-green lower leaves and elongated, woody stems may need more sulfur in the soil. The amount of additional sulfur needed is often fairly low, so a thin layer of compost of about one to two inches added to the soil may provide enough sulfur. Sulfur can also be found in many fertilizer mixes. Use about 1/2 cup per tomato plant. Work it into the soil when the tomatoes are small.

Fungicide and Insecticide

Powdery mildew spores can be carried on the wind to tomato plants late in the season. This fungus causes tomato plant leaves to develop yellow spots, and can eventually kill the leaves. Sulfur can be sprayed on the plants to reduce infestation. Another tomato pest, russet mites, can be controlled with sulfur, but it may take several applications. Sulfur can also be used to prevent an infestation.

Applying Sulfur

Sulfur can be applied as a dust or as a wettable powder. When applying as a dust, use a hand-cranked dust applicator in dry, windless weather. Coat the leaves and stems of the tomato plant lightly. The wettable powder form of sulfur is stirred into water. However, it doesn't dissolve. It is applied with a specially designed sprayer.

Cautions

Sulfur can damage tomato plants when the weather is hot, and should not be used if temperatures climb above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If squash and melons are planted near tomatoes, do not use sulfur, as it can injure these plants. While sulfur is less toxic than many chemical pesticides, it is best not to get it on your skin or in your eyes as it can irritate them. Avoid use on a windy day to keep from inhaling the sulfur or it spreading to other areas. Wear a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, eye protection and plastic gloves when applying sulfur. Wash tomatoes thoroughly before eating them to remove any sulfur residue.


Comments (19)

  • 9 years ago

    Interesting! What brand of sulfur do you use?

    I'm allergic to it, so maybe I shouldn't use it....

    Linda

  • 9 years ago

    Linda,

    I use sulfur prills and heat them to a vapor during the night for a couple of hours once to twice a month - depending on sightings of insects in the GH. The brand isn't important, just the organic properties (0-0-0-90). I also just broadcast the prills once a year on the soil. I purchase them in 50 lb bags from a farmer's fertilizer supplier but you can get them in small quantities on Amazon - here is a link.

    https://www.amazon.com/Flora-Hydro-Sulfur-Prills-99-9/dp/B00HU76TFQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1490907406&sr=8-4&keywords=sulfur

    We also broadcast them on our lawn and garden once a year so the plant roots can access the other nutrients in our high alkali soil that are otherwise not accessible.

    http://www.groworganic.com/media/pdfs/f2210-l.pdf

  • 9 years ago

    Thanks for the interesting Information. Recently I learned light potash works too. Was told nutrient deficiency was to blame for the green slime inside/ top of tomatoes not turning red. Was also told to add a few match sticks to the hole when I plant tomatoes or peppers. But this was good info.

  • 9 years ago

    Hudson --- Epsom Salt (magnesium sulfate) for some sulfur, besides the Mg?

    I use 1 tbs per gallon as foliar spray and 3 tbs per 2 gal watering can for soil drench once a month.


    Tony


  • 9 years ago

    two match sticks and a tablespoon of epsom in the bottom of the hole (covered with soil before the tomato plant) works wonders. on peppers too. been doing it for years.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I never use matchsticks since they are poisonous to animals. I believe the Epsom salt is giving you all the benefits --- while the matchsticks are just adding a trace of toxicity.

    Tony

    http://www.petpoisonhelpline.com/poison/matches/

  • 9 years ago

    I agree with the Epsom Salt (magnesium sulfate) application! That may be the best application of sulfur of the available options - IMO.

  • 9 years ago

    Hudson --- I use the Epsom Salt solution for the magnesium benefit. It did not occur to me that there also may be a benign sulfur introduction until I read your post. Kudos for posting this!

    Tony


  • 9 years ago

    I just had this thought. I soak my feet in Epsom salts to make it easier to trim my toe nails. I can then splash it on my tomato soil and ... wow!

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I love it how folks salt their soil with stuff that is most likely already there in abundance. Just because it sounds good, I guess. We should all bathe in vitamin C because, hey, vitamin C is good for our skin! It is well understood that selenium is important to human health. So hey, let's all chaw down on a stick of selenium! Oh yes, it's toxic, but it's GOOD FOR YOU! Epson salts make it easier to trim my toenails, and I splash it on my tomatoes and ... wow, it's easy to trim them as well!

    I always get a smile from these discussions. Less work for those doing real soil analyses, I guess. Sorry, I couldn't resist.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    give kelp a try.
    i started using it last year and results have been incredible. it is rich in many nutrients.. sulfur being one of them.
    it also encourages rapid root growth. there is a plant hormone (how ironic?) element in it that accelerates root development. i moved my seedling tomato plants from an 8oz cup to a half gallon 6 1/2 inch pot.. within a week and a half they were almost root bound..

    it also has many other benefits such as minimizing transplant shock and promoting a lot of micro organisms in the soil.
    i use both kelp in granular and liquid form. Espoma makes a granular (meal) and Alaska makes a liquid concentrate. i use the meal when planting and the liquid in watering through the season.. you can also just buy the granular meal and steep it in some water for a couple days and drench the soil if the plants are already in the ground. in dry form you probably get more for your money, but neither are that expensive.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Stevie --- I use liquid kelp from day seeds are started till plant out. Then, once a week for the next 4 weeks as foliar spay. Works fantastic!

    Tony

  • 9 years ago

    I think when you use Magnesium sulfate ( Epsom salt) or some fertilizers ( like Lilly Miller Ammonium Sulfate 21 -0-0 ) you are also supplying sulfur at the same time.

    According to my soil test I just need to add N. and that is what I will get/use That costs about $15 for a 20 lbs bag. To me that is like hitting 2 birds with one stone ( Sorry for bad metaphor !! I love birds ).

    Sey

  • 9 years ago

    This is why I like this and other forums. Everyone that contributes shares their experience or lack of it. Some will even have strong opinions and usually our experiences differ and sometimes substantially. Almost always most of us learn something new or see things from a different perspective and ultimately it is up to the forum member wether or not to act on any of the information provided! Thanks for all of your comments!!

  • 9 years ago

    Since you insist Hudson I'll contribute. As Set mentioned there are much cheaper alternatives. Although Ammonium Sulfate will lower pH it can be easily counteracted with lime(very cheap). Another sulfur source that is pH neutral is Gypsum(Calcium Sulfate). It has added advantage of improving soil texture.

    But agree that most soils have adequate S. Many may have more than we want from Acid Rain - another can of worms opened.

  • 9 years ago

    Barrie That is great way to add calcium w/out changing the pH. And you also get the sulfur with it.Win win situation.

    Is the stuff in sheetrock gypsum ?

    The reason I am asking is that I did some renovation, removing some walls and I have got some of it ( sheetrock = ? drywall ) in the wooded area.

    I new that the main ingredient of sheetrock is gypsum but wondered if it has any additives that might not be desirable in the garden .

    sey

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm not sure about all sheetrock, but I do know that some has fire retardant components. I don't know what those components are, but I'm sure you could do a web search to find out if it's safe.

  • 9 years ago

    Getting soil analysis is a topic in itself, I have found some of the cheap store bought test kits are inaccurate, the ones you get from a local extension office are good, but the price of the service varies greatly, depending on the state you live in and availability of access to such offices. ($6-$36) Some folks just don't have big bucks to spend on a garden, most just want to save on grocery bills while having some fun. Some soils also hold their nutrients, and others leach.

    Sheetrock, might also have lime I think. Plaster definitely does. But I love the fact people want to recycle. I too would want to research the safety. a bucket of sheet rock is a lot more chemical than the head of a match....for instance.

    Boron (borax) is good for beets but in small amounts, like Epsom salts...a little goes a long way.